Black and Margelan radish - planting and care, growing conditions. Features of caring for radish in open ground Growing radish in open ground

Everyone knows that green radish is a very useful root crop. It is rich in vitamins and has a number of useful properties. Even in ancient times, radish was used as a medicinal plant. Therefore, culture is often grown to create folk remedies against various diseases. However, the most useful for the body is a vegetable grown by oneself. Therefore, the cultivation of radish in the open field must be carried out especially carefully and in accordance with all the rules.

Radish is an unpretentious plant that does not require special care. Therefore, growing a radish in your own garden will not require much work and physical costs from you. It will be necessary to water the individuals, thin out their thickets, loosen the soil and eliminate all weeds, as well as fertilize the plants with special dressings.

Radish care also includes thinning. For the first time it is carried out after the formation of a pair of leaves in young shoots. At the same time, it is worth leaving a distance of 0.06–0.07 meters between root crops. The next time thickening is warned a month later.

How does outdoor care work? When growing a root crop in unprotected soil, weeding between rows is carried out three to four times per season. For the first time they are loosened to a depth of 0.04 meters, the second time - to 0.08 meters, the next - to 0.1–0.12 meters.

How to grow

How to grow a radish? Before growing and caring for a crop in open ground, it is necessary to prepare the soil in advance for this. In spring, the soil is dug up to the depth of the layer with humus. After that, top dressing is carried out with mineral fertilizers, urea, superphosphate and potassium chloride.

The technology for sowing seeds of a summer variety provides for a procedure in early May, and a winter variety in June.

The seed is placed in holes with a depth of 0.02 meters, keeping a distance between rows of 0.3-0.4 meters. If the soil is not sufficiently moistened, then after planting it is necessary to water the soil abundantly.

Watering

Watering the root crop is carried out regularly, but not more than once a week. The winter variety is moistened only three or four times during the entire development cycle. Radish needs a large amount of water: about a bucket per unit area. The main thing is the regularity of the procedure. After all, watering after a dry hot period will lead to cracking of root crops. With a lack of moisture, the root becomes stiff, after which it can not be eaten. Mulching will help keep the liquid in the ground and reduce the number of procedures.

top dressing

How many times do you need to fertilize a radish and how to do it correctly? For the entire development cycle of the plant, top dressing is carried out twice. For the first time - after the formation and opening of the cotyledon leaves. The second time feeding is carried out 7 days after the first.

Due to the fact that the ripening period of early varieties is short, it is necessary to feed the crop only with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. For example, 0.2% sodium or calcium ammonium nitrate.

Late-ripening varieties are fertilized once a week with mineral fertilizer solutions (0.06 kilograms of superphosphate, 0.02 kilograms of urea and 0.015 kilograms of calcium chloride). At the same time, a bucket of water is consumed per 20 m of a row. Plants need nitrogen in large doses, so complex fertilizers must be alternated with nitrogen fertilizers. Three weeks before harvest, all top dressing should stop.

Manure is not used as a top dressing for radishes, as it stimulates the “division” of the root crop.

Pests and diseases

Often the plant is infected with clubroot, cabbage mosaic, felt disease, powdery mildew, downy mildew, white rot, black leg and underwear.

Kila is an ailment of a fungal nature that provokes the appearance of spindle-shaped or spherical outgrowths on the roots. They gradually turn brown, and then begin to rot. Affected individuals slow down growth and may even die.

Due to mosaic infection, the veins on the leaves of the vegetable are pulled together, and the organs themselves are deformed and change shape. Further, a dark green edging appears on the veins, and dead white areas form.

Felt disease has the appearance of brown or purple spots that appear on the fruit. After that, colonies of fungi appear in place of the spots. The most comfortable environment for the development of the disease is warm and high humidity.

Powdery mildew appears on the ground parts of the culture with a grayish coating, which gradually turns brown. Affected leaves curl and dry out, the individual itself slows down growth or completely stops it.

Peronosporosis (downy mildew) has the appearance of chlorine spots on the top of the leaf, which become oily and yellowish. Over time, they turn brown, and a purple coating appears from the bottom of the organ.

The black leg is manifested by a thinning of the leaf rosette and the top of the fruit.

White rot provokes the removal of colored pigment from the affected parts of the plant, then the affected areas become covered with a fungus and become like cotton wool.

Belle seems to cover the organs of culture with oil paint, after which the tissues become brown and dry. Leaves with fungal spores become swollen and deformed.

The most dangerous insects for radish are: cruciferous flea, scoop (garden and cabbage), cabbage fly, moth and whitefish, wireworms and stem nematodes.

The cruciferous flea beetle is a beetle with jumping hind legs that feeds on the leaves of crops. The pest can easily feed on young plant sprouts.

The caterpillar of the scoop or cabbage whitefish feeds on leaf pulp, and the larvae of the cabbage fly damage root crops, causing them to rot.

Nematode larvae feed on the juice of crops, as a result of which they lose their usual shape.

Wireworms consume both leaves and fruits of radish.

Treatment

Diseases of a fungal nature are usually defeated by treating cultures with solutions that contain copper. Usually it is copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, copper chloride oxide. The technology of processing plants is described in detail in the instructions for preparations.

Mosaic is not so easy to defeat. There is no drug for it. Affected plants are simply removed and burned, preventing the spread of the disease to neighboring individuals.

Insects are usually eradicated with insecticides, which are readily available from specialized retail outlets.

However, prevention is the best help - pre-sowing tillage and seeds, as well as compliance with the rules for growing radish.

So, planting a radish on your own plot is worth it because of the wide range of its application. Culture is easy to manage. It is enough to cultivate the soil and carry out regular watering with top dressing. It is worth noting that a significant advantage of the plant is the ability to survive frosts.

This vegetable has been cultivated for a long time. The wild relatives of our common radish grow in the temperate climate of Europe and Asia, but it itself grows exclusively in vegetable gardens. Sharp, with a spicy taste and pungent smell, with an incredibly rich vitamin composition, the root crop can have a skin of different colors - white, black, green, lilac, but the flesh is always white. Planting radish in open ground is carried out in spring and summer, depending on the variety and purpose. Radish can be grown in almost every garden, especially since planting and caring for it in the open field is easier than you might imagine.

Radish seeds are very similar to radish seeds - they are also quite large and brown. When buying, you should pay attention to their color: rich brown indicates freshness, but gray discolored seeds have clearly been stored for a long time, it’s not worth risking sowing them, they most likely have below-normal germination.

Usually the seeds are calibrated before sowing. You can plant any seeds, but a large root crop will grow from large ones, and who, growing vegetables, wants to reap a deliberately bad harvest? That is why the seeds are poured with salt water, and then filtered through a sieve with two-millimeter cells. Those seeds that remain in the sieve are soaked a day before sowing in a solution of pale potassium permanganate to disinfect.

Some gardeners say that it is possible to soak the seeds in a fertilizer solution before sowing, but what is better and whether it is worth doing this can only be learned in practice. To the question of how to properly prepare the seed, everyone answers based on their experience. But even if you do nothing with the seeds, lay them dry in the ground, then, probably, not all will sprout, but the roots will grow in everyone that sprouts. There is already a question about the size and taste of the resulting crop. Since gardeners want to get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy radishes, they begin to work on this from seed.

Good and bad predecessors

Radish is unpretentious, it can be grown on any land. But those who want to get a good harvest should plant it in an open area, where it will receive maximum sunlight and heat. The soil should be neutral, loamy (or sandy) with a high content of humus, with regular moisture.

You can sow radish where peas, beans, soybeans, lentils, beans, peanuts used to grow - legumes are considered good predecessors for all types of radish. It will grow well after cucumbers, squash, zucchini, pumpkins, eggplant, corn, peppers, onions and dill. But the bad predecessors are its cabbage (or cruciferous in other terminology) relatives: horseradish, carrots, beets. After them, radishes can be planted only after 4 years.

Landing pattern

Radish grows well, planted along the edges (borders) of beds with tomatoes, potatoes, onions or cucumbers. If she is given her own separate plot, then they are usually sown in rows. The most convenient radish planting scheme is nests and rows.

This means that on the prepared bed you need to make grooves 2 cm deep, and leave 30–35 cm between them. 3 seeds are placed in each groove in the nest every 8–10 cm, this is for early and early ripening varieties. When they want to save a radish for the winter, late varieties are planted at a distance of 15 cm between the nests. About a week after germination, one of the strongest sprouts is left in each nest, and the rest are simply removed.

On this occasion, there is another opinion. Some gardeners prefer to plant radish not in nests of several things, but one seed at a time. Breaking through the shoots, we disturb all the sprouts, and not just those that we remove, the remaining sprout for this reason slows down in growth and development. This can be taken into account, but then you need to be prepared for the fact that there will be too large gaps in the row due to the fact that not all seeds will sprout. Although, radish can be sown later. It can be sown from the second half of March, it is then that it is recommended to sow early small-fruited varieties. Early maturing varieties are sown from April 25 to early May, winter black round radish is sown from late June to early July, and the latest varieties are sown in July.

Watering radish

After laying the seeds in the ground, the grooves are covered, rammed so that the soil fits snugly against them from all sides, and then moistened. Radish should always grow in moist soil, moreover, watering should be regular.

Usually, early radishes are watered weekly, and late ones, which are going to be stored for the winter, are watered less often, only 4 or 5 times per season.

With insufficient watering, the root crop becomes too hard and tasteless, it practically loses its edibility. If you allow the soil to dry out, and then water it, then the root crop will certainly crack. Uneven watering or lack of moisture can lead to the fact that a two-year-old vegetable, which in the first year of life should grow a root crop, and bloom and bear fruit in the second year, can immediately release an arrow, practically without forming a root crop. So the uniformity of watering is very important when growing this vegetable.

fertilizers

Delicious large radish will grow on fertile, humus-rich soil. When preparing the beds for digging, compost or humus and complex mineral fertilizers are usually added, and wood ash is necessarily added. It is very convenient if the soil was well fertilized for the predecessor crop, then when digging a plot in the fall, you can limit yourself to a minimum of fertilizers. You should never bring unrotted manure under the radish, from such a fertilizer the root crop will begin to branch.

Since the ripening period for early and early ripening varieties is very short, they are fed with nitrogen fertilizers, usually lime-ammonium or sodium nitrate is used. The first time top dressing is made after the appearance of the second leaf, and the second time - after a week. Late varieties (if there is such a need) are fed weekly, stop doing this 3 weeks before harvest. As a rule, the full complex of mineral fertilizers is alternated with nitrogen fertilizers, since the need for nitrogen is large.

Radish is one of a number of unique vegetables. It is rich in vitamins (A, B9, K, C), microelements, organic acids, essential oils, amino acids, vegetable fats, carbohydrates, proteins. Radish contains phytoncides - substances that inhibit growth or kill bacteria, due to which it is a natural antibiotic with the widest spectrum of action, improves immunity, improves metabolism, digestion, removes fluid from the body. A number of useful qualities of a vegetable can be continued, but this is enough to want to plant and grow a root crop in your backyard or cottage.

It is for this vegetable that planting dates are of great importance. First you need to decide for what purpose you are going to plant and grow radish - for long-term storage and use in the winter or for consumption in spring and summer.

Early small-fruited varieties are sown in March. The fruits ripen in 40-45 days, slightly sharp, juicy - a rich source of early vitamins.

Summer varieties are early ripening, ripen in 55-60 days, so the optimal planting time is the end of April, the beginning of May. Radish is not afraid of low temperatures, gives friendly shoots even at t +3 - 5 degrees.

Winter mid-season varieties intended for long-term storage ripen in 100-110 days. In order to have time to harvest in time, in central Russia, the Moscow region, in Siberia, you need to plant a radish in late June - early July (the latest deadline is the first decade of July).

Winter early ripening root varieties are sown in late July - early August.

Radish is sown in open ground with seeds: in the middle of summer it sprouts rather quickly, in early spring it is not afraid of frost, therefore no need to grow seedlings.

In addition, some gardeners on the forums express the opinion that when transplanting seedlings, the root can be damaged and the root crop will bloom.

The most important condition for proper growth is short daylight hours. With a long daylight hours, the vegetable gives arrows, blooms, and becomes unfit for food. That is why radish is sown in early spring or in the second half of summer, when daylight hours become shorter.

The most popular varieties for sowing

In order to enjoy the taste of a healthy, juicy root crop all year round, several varieties are sown with different ripening periods.

The most useful and rich in vitamins and trace elements is black radish. It tastes spicier and in all respects is significantly ahead of the “colored relatives”. Consider some of the most popular and high-quality representatives.

. The variety is mid-season, ripening time - 80 days, has the best taste and medicinal qualities, high-yielding - 7.5 kg / sq. m, suitable for long-term storage. The root crop is rounded, weight - from 250 to 500 g, the peel is black, the flesh is white, juicy, the taste is bright, spicy.
. Fruits of the extended form, black color. The pulp is white, crispy, juicy. Even after long-term storage does not lose useful properties.
Margelan (Chinese). Green fruits with light green flesh. This radish is not as useful as black radish, but you can eat it much more - it tastes very juicy, slightly spicy, without bitterness. It is sown in the summer, until July 5-10, as the variety is late-ripening, high-yielding, has excellent keeping quality, right up to spring.
. An early ripening summer variety with juicy, tender pulp, semi-sharp in taste, does not darken for a long time.
. Medium spicy taste, dense tasty pulp, high-yielding, retains its presentation for a long time.

In addition to these, there are many more popular varieties: Odessa 5, Daikon, Summer Round White, Olive, Elephant's Fang, etc.

Root predecessors

The vegetable belongs to the cruciferous family and should not be grown after cabbage, radish, turnip.

Other horticultural crops are good predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, beans. Winter varieties of radish can be planted in the garden after harvesting green onions, lettuce, green peas, and beans.

Soil preparation and planting seeds in open ground

Loves well lit, sunny places, moist and loose, deeply dug soil. For spring planting, the beds need to be prepared in the fall: add humus, mineral fertilizers, and ash in acidic soils.

Seed preparation

If you want to get a quality crop, root crops of the same size, seeds are a must. calibrate- remove small, irregular, empty or half grains, leaving only large healthy grains of the same size.

To get friendly shoots, you can (but not necessarily) process the seeds humate or growth stimulant before planting. Treated seeds go less into the arrow, bloom.

What scheme to sow

Before planting, they dig up the earth to a depth of 30-35 cm, level the surface, make grooves deep 2 cm, between rows 30 cm. Seeds are introduced into the grooves, covered with earth and the bed is well watered.

The soil must be kept moist until the seeds germinate. As soon as the first shoots appear, they are thinned out, leaving the strongest ones. The next time it is necessary to thin out the shoots no later than a month later to avoid thickening. The distance between the remaining radish sprouts should be 15 cm.

Further care is to constantly maintain moisture and loosen the row spacing - the radish loves oxygenated soils.

To avoid common mistakes, to get tasty, juicy roots with dense pulp, you need to follow some rules:

no thickening allowed, thin out in the phase of 2-3 leaves, then after 15-20 days;
irrigation should be frequent, the soil should never dry out;
there is never a lot of ash for a radish - it loves ashes, it can be applied before planting, at the phase of 3-4 leaves, and during the appearance of cruciferous fleas, it can be scattered over the entire surface of the garden, even on the leaves;
top dressing with boron, magnesium, table salt will have a good effect on the quality of fruits - they will increase sugar content, improve plant growth.

Radish is a unique and useful product that must be included in a healthy diet. A good harvest from the garden will help protect you throughout the winter from colds and other diseases. Cultivation is possible in almost all regions, even beyond the Urals, the main thing is to properly sow and follow the rules of care.

Plant radish (lat. Raphanus) belongs to a small genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Cabbage or Cruciferous family, growing wild in Europe and in Asian regions with a temperate climate. As a vegetable, the radish has been cultivated since time immemorial. Today, a species known as the common radish (Raphanus sativus) is cultivated, which does not occur in the wild. How to plant a radish, how to water a radish, how to fertilize a radish, how to treat a radish affected by diseases or harmful insects, when to dig up a radish, how to store a radish - all this and much more will be discussed in this article.

Planting and caring for radishes (in short)

Landing: sowing seeds of early varieties in open ground - after April 25, sowing seeds of late varieties - in mid-June.
The soil: fertile, moist, humus-rich loam of slightly alkaline or neutral reaction. Acidic soils are limed before sowing.
Watering: regular: early varieties are watered once a week, late ones - less often, in total - 3-4 times per season. Water consumption - 10-12 liters per m² of beds.
Top dressing: if necessary, early varieties are fed 2 times with nitrogen fertilizers: at the stage of unfolding cotyledon leaves and a week after the first feeding. Late varieties require weekly feeding alternately with nitrogen fertilizers and complete mineral complexes. Stop feeding three weeks before harvest.
Reproduction: seed.
Pests: cruciferous fleas, cabbage and garden scoops, cabbage flies, cabbage moths and whites, stem nematodes and wireworms.
Diseases: black leg, keel, felt disease, powdery mildew, peronosporosis, white rot, white.

Radish plant - description

The root of the radish is thickened, but sometimes, like the oilseed variety, thin. The color of the root, which develops in the first year of growth, may be white, pink, red, green, purple or black, but the flesh of the root crop is invariably white. The leaves are lyre-shaped, pinnatipartite, sometimes entire, with a large upper lobe and 2-6 pairs of lateral lobes. The flowers are pink, purple or white, the fruit-pods are swollen, wide, bare or covered with stiff bristles.

Radishes are grown for eating during a period of vitamin deficiency: it stimulates appetite, improves digestion, and speeds up metabolic processes. Radish is widely used in folk medicine.

Planting radish in open ground

When to plant a radish in the ground

Radish is a cold-resistant plant, seedlings germinate at a temperature of 3-5 ºC and are able to endure a cold snap of up to 3-4 ºC. Mature plants normally withstand frosts down to -5-6 ºC. Sow radish in the ground in spring and summer - it all depends on the variety of the plant. Early varieties are sown immediately after April 25, and those grown for winter storage are sown in mid-June.

soil for radish

The best soil for radish is fertile, moist, humus-rich loam, neutral or slightly alkaline. Acidic soils will have to be limed.

The best neighbors for radishes are radishes and turnips, and good predecessors are legumes (peas, beans, soybeans, lentils, peanuts and beans), as well as cucumber, tomatoes, pumpkin, onion, lettuce, zucchini, patisson, dill, eggplant, corn and pepper. It is under the crops preceding the radish that it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers.

Do not plant radishes in an area where horseradish, cabbage, watercress, turnips, carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, and radishes have grown.

Growing radish from seeds is preceded by digging the site in the fall, first, the soil is peeled to a shallow depth, and after a short period of time, the weeds that have appeared are removed by digging to the depth of a shovel bayonet while adding compost or humus in a bucket and half a liter jar of wood ash per m².

How to plant a radish in open ground

Planting radish in the ground begins with the preparation of seed: radish seeds are calibrated in size and weight in a solution of 50 g of salt in 1 liter of water using a sieve with two-millimeter holes. The seeds remaining in the sieve are thoroughly washed with water and soaked for a day in a solution of 0.2 g of potassium permanganate in 1 liter of water.

In the garden, furrows are made up to 2 cm deep at a distance of about 35 cm from one another and 3 seeds are laid out in them with an interval of 8 cm between the nests, after which the furrows are sprinkled with earth and compacted. If the soil is not moist enough, water the bed after planting. Seedlings may appear within a week.

Planting winter radish varieties

Sowing winter varieties of radish into the ground is carried out according to the same principle and in the same order as the sowing of early varieties, the only difference is that the site for sowing late varieties is prepared in spring, and not in autumn, and the distance between seed nests should be greater - about 15 cm.

Radish Care

How to grow a radish

Radish belongs to unpretentious crops, so growing radish in the open field will not exhaust you. You will have to water the bed, thin out the plants at the same time as loosening the soil and weeding the weeds, and also carry out top dressing. The first thinning of seedlings is carried out after the growth of one or two leaves in seedlings, leaving a distance of 6-7 cm between them, the second thinning is carried out 3-4 weeks after the first.

Row spacing on the site is loosened 3-4 times per season: the first time to a depth of 4 cm, the second time to 8 cm, and the third and fourth to a depth of 10-12 cm.

Watering radish

Moistening of spring sowing radish is carried out regularly once a week, winter varieties are watered less often - 3-4 times per season. Radish needs a lot of moisture: 10-12 liters of water are poured for each m². The main thing in moistening the beds with radish is regularity, since abundant watering after a long drought leads to the fact that the radish cracks. From insufficient watering, the radish root becomes wooden and almost inedible. It will help to retain moisture in the soil and reduce the amount of watering by mulching the site.

Top dressing radish

During the growing season, if necessary, top dressing of early radish is carried out twice: the first time when the seedlings unfold the cotyledon leaves, and the second time a week later. Due to the short ripening period of early varieties, radish fertilizer is carried out only with nitrogen fertilizers - lime-ammonium or sodium nitrate at a concentration of 0.2%. Late varieties of radish are fed weekly with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer, dissolving 60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of urea and 15 g of calcium chloride in a bucket of water and spending one bucket of solution per 20 m row.

However, since the plant needs nitrogen in large quantities, then alternate complex top dressing with exclusively nitrogen. Stop fertilizing three weeks before harvest. Never use manure as a fertilizer for radish, as this subsequently leads to branching of root crops.

Pests and diseases of radish

Most often, the radish is infected with clubroot, cabbage mosaic, felt disease, powdery mildew, downy mildew, white rot, black leg and underwear.

quila- a fungal disease, due to which spindle-shaped or spherical outgrowths form on the roots, turning brown and decaying with time. Affected plants lag behind in growth and wither.

cabbage mosaic manifested by a pattern on the leaf plate, contraction of the veins and deformation of the leaves. Later, a dark green border appears around the main veins of the leaves, the leaves become covered with whitish necrotic spots.

felt disease, or red rot, looks like brown and purple spots on root crops, then dark sclerotia of the fungus form on and in place of these spots. The disease progresses at too high temperature and humidity.

powdery mildew covers the ground parts of the plant with a grayish-white bloom, eventually acquiring a brown color. The affected leaves are deformed and dry out, the plants lag behind in development.

peronosporosis, or downy mildew, looks like chlorotic spots on the upper side of the leaf blade, which gradually turn yellow and oily, and then turn brown, and under them, nor the underside of the leaf, a dirty purple coating appears.

When sick black leg the lower part of the rosette of leaves and the top of the root crop are thin, soft, covered with mycelium.

white rot discolors the affected tissues, they become watery and covered with mycelium, similar to cotton wool.

When defeated underwear the ground parts of the plant seem to be covered with oil paint, then the diseased tissues turn brown and dry. The leaves, on which clusters of spores of the fungus form, are bent and covered with swellings.

Of the insects, the cruciferous flea, garden and cabbage scoops, cabbage fly, cabbage white, cabbage moth, wireworms and stem nematodes are the most dangerous for radishes.

cruciferous flea not a flea at all, but a small leaf beetle with hind jumping legs, like a grasshopper, capable of destroying young shoots of cruciferous crops, severely damaging the leaves of plants.

Scoop caterpillars And cabbage white they eat away the flesh of the leaves, and the larvae of the cabbage fly gnaw on the roots of the radish, causing them to rot.

nematode larvae, feeding on plant sap, cause curvature and stunting.

wireworms they feed not only on radish leaves, but also on root crops.

Radish processing

With fungal diseases (keel, linen, rot, powdery mildew, blackleg and peronosporosis) they fight by treating plants with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulphate, copper oxychloride). How to treat radish with these drugs, you will read in the attached instructions.

It will not be possible to cope with the mosaic, since no medicine has yet been invented for it, but diseased specimens must be immediately removed from the site and burned before the disease spreads to neighboring plants.

As for harmful insects, they are destroyed with insecticides, which can be found in any specialized store or department. However, the best thing you can do to protect the garden from diseases and pests is to carry out pre-sowing treatment of soil and seeds, follow the agricultural practices of the crop and crop rotation rules.

Cleaning and storage of radishes

Early radish varieties are harvested in the summer, selectively, when the root crop reaches 3-4 cm in diameter. These varieties are not suitable for storage - they are grown solely for food, so put the early radish in the refrigerator, where it can be up to three weeks. At room temperature, early radish varieties are stored for no more than 10 days.

Harvesting winter radish varieties is carried out in the fall, in the second half of September, before the onset of the first cold weather. Having dug up the root crop, shake off the ground from it, tear off the small roots, carefully cut the tops at the root crop itself, trying not to damage it, and let the radish dry out a little, and then hold it for several days in a dark, cool place. If you are harvesting late radishes for the winter, put them in boxes with ventilation holes and sprinkle with sand, like carrots or beets. Each layer of sand should be up to 4 cm thick.

It is best to store radish in a cellar with a temperature of about 2-3 ºC and an air humidity of about 90%. Under such conditions, late varieties of radish, such as Winter round white or Winter round black, can be stored until spring.

Types and varieties of radish

Within the framework of the radish sowing species, the following varieties are distinguished:

black radish- in terms of taste, this subspecies loses to other varieties, but it has the most valuable healing properties;
japanese radish, or daikon- a large white radish, sometimes reaching 60 cm in length with a diameter of 10-15 cm. It is unpretentious, tasty and healthy: one hundred grams of the root contains 40% of the daily vitamin C. This variety of radish is also rich in fiber, beta-carotene, folic acid, potassium, iron, selenium and iodine. The best varieties: Sasha, Dragon, Dubinushka, Japanese white long;
oil radish- cold-resistant, shade-tolerant, moisture-loving and productive annual plant. The flowers of the oil radish are white-purple, the best time for planting is June or July;
green Uzbek radish, useful almost the same as black, but its taste is much more gentle and pleasant. Green radish is rich in carotene, vitamins, phytoncides, potassium, phosphorus, sodium, sulfur, calcium and essential oils;
chinese radish, or Margelan, or forehead- juicy and dense root crops of round or elongated shape, which are stored worse than European varieties of radish. This is a salad variety, the varieties of which differ in color: they can be pink, red, lilac-purple, light or dark green, but the top of the heads is the same deep green color in all varieties. The flesh of this radish is neither spicy nor bitter. The most popular varieties: Ladushka, Hostess, Severyanka, Zarevo.

But since radish of European varieties grows best in our climatic conditions, we bring to your attention a description of the most popular of them. So, the best varieties of radish for open ground:

Winter round white- mid-season productive variety with white root crops, round-flat or round-oval shape, weighing up to 400 g with white, juicy, firm pulp of medium-sharp taste;
Winter round black- one of the most common high-yielding and maturing varieties, oval or flat-rounded roots of which have high taste and medicinal properties. The pulp of the radish of this variety is white, juicy, slightly spicy taste;
Sudarushka- a variety that ripens in 37 days, with white oval roots that are only half buried in the ground, which greatly facilitates harvesting. Pulp of root crops of excellent tastes;
Gaivoronskaya- mid-late fruitful variety of spicy taste and excellent keeping quality with white hard pulp of cylindrical roots with a green head;
Mayskaya- an early ripening variety with oval-conical smooth white roots with juicy, white pulp of a pleasant semi-sharp taste;

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ABOUT radish they say that she is evil, but sweet to everyone! Despite its specific, spicy taste, very popular root vegetable.

How to grow a tasty and juicy radish? If to radish show a little more attention and care, you will understand that it is fruitful, unpretentious, almost trouble-free and very useful.

Sowing preparation. Sowing radish

The best soils for growing radishes- neutral or slightly acidic, fertile, not waterlogged, with a deep cultivated layer.

On hard and dry ground, root crops do not work out. They turn out branched "bearded".

The radish will grow well and feel good on deeply plowed loam. And the least she likes light sandstones, on which it will grow flabby and too spicy in taste.

The best predecessors: tomatoes, cucumbers, and beans.

good predecessors for radish can be all garden crops.

The exceptions are cruciferous family (cabbage of all kinds, radish, turnip, swede). From these crops, radish can become infected with the same diseases and pests.

It is not recommended to apply fresh manure for radish. Because root crops turn out to be tasteless and with a bad smell, and more prone to disease.

It is advisable to apply rotted organic fertilizers for autumn digging.

Also, during autumn digging, acidic soils are deoxidized with lime or ash (in double volume).

Place for a radish you need to choose sunny, warm. In a darkened area, the roots will weakly pour.

The soil at the planting site of the radish is dug up in spring or summer to the full depth of the fertile layer.

During digging, mineral fertilizers are applied per 1 m 2:

urea (10-15 gr.), superphosphate (30-40 gr.), potassium chloride (15-20 gr.)

Sow radish at different times, depending on the variety.

In early May, early ripening varieties are sown for summer consumption.

In June and even at the beginning of July, mid-season and mid-late varieties are planted for autumn and winter consumption. Since with early sowing, the roots coarsen.

After digging and fertilizing the soil, it is slightly compacted.

Seeds are calibrated before sowing in a salt solution. (50g per 1 liter of water).

There are two ways to sow radish seeds.

First way, more suitable for a personal plot - "nesting".

Two seeds are placed in each hole. In the future, the strongest is left.

The distance between the nests is kept 10-15 cm. The depth of embedding is not more than 2 cm.

This method saves gardeners from thinning the crop.

Second way- "ordinary". The grooves are cut at a distance of 30-40 cm at a seeding rate (0.5 g per 1 m 2). Seeding depth 1-2 cm.

In case of insufficient soil moisture, after sowing, shed the area with water.

Radish care. top dressing

Radish Care consists in loosening row spacings, weeding, thinning rows, top dressing and watering.

First seedling thinning carried out in the presence of 1-2 true leaves.

Second- after 20-30 days, after the first.

By the period of root ripening, the final distance between plants should be:

for early varieties 6-8 cm.
for late 12-15 cm.

The thickening of sowing harms the taste of root crops. This is due to the fact that the leaves of the radish lie flat on the ground and they require a lot of space. And with a thickened sowing, the leaves rise up and the plant will quickly go into the trunk, giving rough and tasteless root crops.

Organics should not be used, it reduces the keeping quality and quality of root crops.

Mineral fertilizers are applied in dry and liquid form, depending on soil moisture.

For the season make 1-2 dressings.

First dressing carried out in the phase of 2-3 true leaves.

Second top dressing 20-30 days after the first, at the beginning of the formation of root crops.

Dissolve in a ten-liter bucket of water:

urea (20 gr.), superphosphate (60 gr.), potassium chloride (15 gr.)

The solution is used at the rate of 1 bucket of solution per 10-15 m row.

In dry form, per 1 m 2 make:

urea (5-10 gr.), superphosphate (10-15 gr.), potassium chloride (5-10 gr.)

Watering and loosening - regular throughout the entire period of growth.

The soil in the process of growing radish should be loose and sufficiently moist.

Removing weeds as they grow.

Gotta remember that weeds increase the possibility of plant disease and pests.

large radish can be obtained using the following method. A month before harvesting, the roots must be gently swayed from side to side, but not pulled out of the soil.

housekeeping are engaged at different times, depending on the variety.

Early varieties are harvested in the summer, pulling out selectively. Late - dig out completely before the onset of frost (in the second half of September). Early harvested root crops intended for winter storage lose their keeping quality, so you should not rush to harvest.

Harvesting is carried out on a dry and sunny day. The soil is shaken off the root crops, small fruits are selected. The tops are twisted flush with the head of the root crop, carefully without damaging the root crop.

Healthy, whole, without damage and not overgrown fruits are selected for storage. Stored in special storage facilities along with potatoes.

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