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How to make a surge protector (extension cord) with your own hands

Is there an electrical extension in the required length in the store? We will tell you how to make a surge protector (extension cord) with your own hands. Also, this article is useful to those who already have a network extension cord, but the plug or socket block has become unusable and needs to be replaced.

Materials and tools for the manufacture of a network extension cord

• fork
• socket block with any number of sockets, all are connected in the same way
• three-core wire. If you do not connect grounding or you do not have grounding in your sockets, then we take a two-wire wire

• screwdrivers, Phillips and flat

Making a network extension

1. We clean the wire on both sides.
2. We disassemble the plug. We fasten the wires of one side of the wire to the two side contacts in any order to the plug.

We fasten the third ground wire to the middle contact. Remember the color of the wire that you screw to ground (usually they take yellow, green, black). The same core at the other end of the wire must be screwed to the ground contact on the socket block. If you have an electrical extension cord without grounding, then leave the corresponding contact empty.

3. We disassemble the socket block. We take the other end of the wire and fasten the two main wires (phase and zero) to the contacts in any sequence, and the ground wire - as in paragraph 2.

When assembling the socket block, we make sure that the plates to which the wires are connected do not touch.

Content:

In everyday life, situations often arise when the available sockets in an apartment or a private house do not allow the use of any electrical appliances or household appliances. The main reason is their inconvenient location, so the owners prefer to use an extension cord. In some cases, increased power outlets or a longer cord are required. In this case, home craftsmen make an extension cord with their own hands. A hand-made extension cord will be much cheaper than a branded one and much more reliable. If you have the skills to work with the tool, the whole procedure takes from 15 minutes to half an hour.

Preparing to assemble the extension

Before making an extension cord, you first need to decide on its purpose. This will determine the possibility of connecting certain devices, as well as the maximum allowable power. These factors have a direct impact on the choice of cable cross-section and other components. All parameters are recommended to be selected with a small margin, so that in the future it will be possible to connect more powerful electrical equipment.

First of all, you need to buy a wire that will be used as a cord. The most optimal option is copper, characterized by increased flexibility. If there is a grounding contact in the socket, the wire must be three-core, and if it is not available, a cable with two cores can be used. At the time of purchase, you should carefully study the labeling of the product.

If the brand "PVA 3 x 1.5" is indicated, this means that the wire is three-core, and the cross section of the core is 1.5 mm. These parameters allow you to connect a load with a power of up to 3.5 kW. For a power of 5 kW, a cross section of 2.5 mm is required. Data for calculations can be taken in a special one, which will greatly speed up the solution of the question of how to make an extension cord with your own hands.

When choosing a cross section, it is necessary to take into account the factor of the length of the conductor. For example, if the cable length is more than 100 meters, then during operation, a voltage drop is possible due to the connection of high power devices. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a cable with a larger cross section than is provided for in the calculation table.

Then you need to choose the right one, which should be collapsible. It is not recommended to purchase products of the "euro" type, if you plan to use sockets of the old design in advance. Otherwise, you will need an additional adapter. On the body of each plug there is a marking with the designation of the maximum current. For example, at 16A you will need a cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm, and for 25A the cross section will be 2.5 mm. If there is grounding, then the plug must have a grounding contact in the design.

The socket is not recommended to be selected in a single version. The socket block should be at least double, and best of all - with three or four elements. When choosing, you need to be very careful not to accidentally buy an overhead structure designed for use with open wiring. It does not have a special clamp that protects against accidental pulling out, and over time, the back cover of such sockets falls out. For extension cords, there are separate options in the form of socket strips or cable sockets. If you want to connect a computer or other office equipment, then in this case a surge protector is made, in which there is a push-button switch and light indication.

After all the materials are prepared, you can begin to assemble the extension cord. This procedure is carried out with a knife, screwdriver and pliers.

How to assemble an electric extension cord with your own hands

At the first stage, the upper insulating layer is removed from both sides of the cable by about 5-7 cm, after which the ends of each core are stripped by 1 cm. Next, the plug is disassembled by unscrewing the mounting bolt. After that, you need to loosen the screws on the clamp that fixes the cable inside the plug housing. Then the stripped wires are connected to two fork contacts.

The location of the conductors does not matter, the most important thing is to correctly connect the grounding contacts on sockets and plugs. After connecting the conductors, the plug is reassembled.

At the final stage, the socket block is disassembled and two cores of conductors are connected to the contacts. The third core is connected to a grounding contact, exactly the same as on the plug. Thus, both ground contacts are connected by a single wire.

If the core consists of many wires, then it is recommended to solder it or. In extreme cases, simple twisting of the wires with pliers is allowed. After all connections, the cable is fixed inside the case and the final assembly of the unit is performed. The finished extension cord is checked by plugging it into a home electrical outlet or using a multimeter.

How to properly operate a homemade extension cord

When using a homemade extension cord, several mandatory requirements must be observed.

• There should not be any damage on the cable, and if they do appear, they must be insulated. Isolation is performed when the extension cord is unplugged.
• If the plug or socket is out of order, they must be replaced. They should be protected from moisture and avoid excessive overloads.
• When operating at maximum loads, the cable must be unwound completely to avoid overheating.

Not always extension cords sold in stores are convenient for work. Insufficient cable length, a small number of sockets, and simply the cost of some models may suggest the idea of ​​self-production. Why not, if there are relevant materials?

What is needed for this?

Of course, the first thing you need is a cable. If you do not have a wire of the required length, you need to purchase it. For these purposes, a flexible copper wire of the PVS brand with a two-core section is suitable. You will also need a plug and socket block.

It is not difficult to make an electric extension cord with your own hands, therefore, when purchasing a wire, you do not need to do it. Just look at the label. For an extension cord, a PVA cable 2×1.5 is enough. The first digit determines the number of cores, and the second their cross section. These indicators are quite enough to work with loads up to 3.5 kW. Accordingly, if the extension cord is used to connect more powerful devices, then the numbers should be larger.

Do not purchase plug sockets, such as "Euro". They do not come in without an adapter, and the sockets are of the old type, and it is not always convenient to always carry adapters with you, for example, from home to the garage. Pay attention to their labeling. The numbers and letters "16A" - indicate their use with a cable with a cross section of 1.5. It is better if they are with grounding contacts.

To avoid shortages, purchase two outlet blocks. It often happens that when working in a garage or repairing an apartment, they are enough to connect all the devices. Constantly running and switching tools is not always convenient.

From theory to practice

Of the tools you will need - side cutters, a screwdriver (flat or Phillips), a knife and pliers. If everything is there, we start work. An extension cord, unlike wiring laid in an apartment, is convenient with a simple minimum, both in a set of tools and in execution.

First, we measure the required length of the wire. Then it is necessary to expose the ends of the cores, on both sides, for connection with the contacts of the sockets. With a knife, carefully cut the wire insulation. The length of the bare area must be at least 1 cm. It is not necessary to cut the insulation heavily so as not to damage the wire core. Carefully remove the cut section with side cutters.

We disassemble the plug, unscrew the small bolts securing the wires. The stripped ends, having previously bent the ring, are pushed under the washer. Polarity is not required. It is advisable to insert the bare wire from left to right so that when the screw is fastened clockwise, the wire does not fly out from under the washer. By connecting the contacts, we assemble the socket. Don't forget a single detail. There should be a washer under the bolts, at the outlet of the plug, the wire secures the clamp.

Now we disassemble the socket block, and by analogy we connect the wires in it. Here, too, there are no recommendations for observing polarity. The main thing is accuracy. You can additionally solder the contact so that the connection is reliable. If you use an extension cord when working with high-voltage devices, you need to make grounding in the sockets. For this, a three-wire wire is purchased. From the socket block, one wire is output to connect to ground during operation.

Making an extension cord yourself is considered the easiest job in the electrical field. Assembly will take just half an hour. And to prevent emergency situations, you can give a few recommendations for operation.

1. If Euro sockets are used, always keep an adapter with you. Many modify the plugs so that they fit into the plug. This is strictly prohibited.
2. When using an extension cord outside the home, purchase outlets that are waterproof. Try your best to avoid getting water inside.
3. Using a wire designed to work with low-voltage appliances, do not power an extension cord, sources of consumption with higher ratings.
4. When working at high loads, when several devices are connected to the extension cord, the wire must be completely unwound to prevent it from overheating and breaking.
5. Faults that appear during operation, protect with electrical tape, and carry out all work to restore the damaged wire only when disconnected from the network.

Use extension cord correctly. Despite the simple assembly and the absence of complex devices in the circuit, electric shock does not cause positive emotions, and in some cases, it can be fatal.

I welcome you dear readers to my site. And today we will talk about how to make an electric carrying with a switch with your own hands.

Agree with me that at home it is very difficult to do without an extension cord. I use this miracle of technology every day. My computer and all the other accessories for it are included in the carrying with a block of four sockets. On the other hand, I think it's the same for a lot of people. It is unlikely that anyone at home has a place where there are three or four outlets at once.

And if there is also a repair in the house, then you can’t do without an extension cord. Since you will need to connect a power tool anyway. And if several people do the repair, then carrying with one outlet will not be enough for them. You need to make an extension cord with several outlets at once. Because if people take turns working, it will take too long.

Of course, you can go the simpler way, just go to any hardware store or market and buy several carriers at once. By the way, carriers in the form of a coil of wire wound on a reel have recently appeared on the market.

But such coils are not always convenient to carry with you, and besides, if you need to turn on something powerful, such as welding, then all this wire must be completely unwound from the coil.

Now imagine if you have 50 meters in the bay and all this wire is laid out around the house or apartment, or even worse, in one room. It will simply be difficult for you to move around without getting entangled in these networks.

Therefore, I suggest that you make the transfer with your own hands using improvised means. At a price it will be much cheaper than a store one, and in terms of reliability it will be no worse, and it is quite possible that even better.

Accessories for assembling an electric carrier.

In order to assemble a good and reliable carrier, you first need to decide which devices you will include in it, and calculate the total power.

But if there are no serious loads, then you can assemble the carrier using the simplest components.

Let's start with wire selection. If the total load of all devices does not exceed 2 kW, then a wire with a cross section of 1 mm 2 can be used for carrying. And the socket and plug must withstand a current of 10 A.

Usually, the manufacturer writes on the case of their products what voltage and what current they are designed for, so I advise you to pay attention to this when buying.

If the load is about 3 kW, then you need to take a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2. And the socket and plug must withstand a load of 16 A.

If the load is within 5 kW, then the wire must have a cross section of at least 2.5 mm 2. But the current at such a load will be about 23 A. So you need to buy a plug and socket of the appropriate type.

Now, as for the brand of wire. The fact is that carriers very often have to be twisted and untwisted, so I advise you to take the wire only.

The wire of this brand has a stranded core and good insulation, which makes it flexible and it will last a long time. And wires with a monolithic core for carrying will not work.

List of materials in order to make the transfer yourself:

1. Collapsible electrical plug (designed for the power you need);
2. Socket or block of sockets (several sockets);
3. Wire of the required length and appropriate section;
4. NSHVI lugs for crimping stranded wires (although if you carry out small loads, you can do without lugs).

Required tool:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• press tongs;
• a knife or a special device for stripping insulation from the cores.

Now let's look at a real example of a carry assembly.

Suppose you need to make a transfer, which will include a heater with a power of 1.5 kW, sometimes a drill with a power of 0.85 kW or some other trifle will be turned on: a phone charger, a portable lamp, a soldering iron, and maybe something else. If we calculate the total power of all these devices, then it will turn out to be no more than 3 kW. Based on this, it will take a PVA wire 3 * 1.5 mm 2, it will be enough. There will even be a power reserve.

I will make a small digression and explain a little what these numbers mean - 3 * 1.5 mm 2.

3 - the first digit always indicates the number of cores in the wire. It is advisable to take a three-wire wire for carrying, since in addition to the phase and zero, we will also have grounding.

1.5 mm 2 is the cross section of one core. It happens that in a wire or cable, several cores have one section, and one or more cores have a different section.

We return to our assembly. In the store we buy a socket or block of sockets with a grounding contact. If we have a load of 3 kW, then our current will be approximately 13.6 A. Therefore, we buy sockets withstanding 16 A. We also take a plug for 16 A, and it is imperative that it has a ground contact.

Let's start assembling the carrier.

We have all the necessary materials and means. First you need to disassemble the fork. Most plugs have a screw type contact connection. If you take and simply clamp a stripped stranded core with a screw, then a significant part of the wires will be damaged.

As a result, the area of ​​the contact connection may decrease, which can subsequently lead to heating and various breakdowns. Starting from the banal burnout of the wire, and ending with the complete failure of the plug.

Therefore, we will use special tips for crimping NShVI.

First you need to strip the wire. Carefully remove the top insulation, and then strip the wires to the length required for crimping with tips. For stripping, it is best to use a special knife.

But if you don’t have one, then you can use any knife. By the way, I would not recommend stripping the veins with a clerical knife, as it cuts the wires. But for removing the top insulation, it is very well suited.

Now we crimp the cores, and you can start assembling the plug. Usually all plugs are equipped with a special clamp for fixing the wire. We clamp the outer insulation of the wire with a clamp and connect the wires to the plug contacts.

Attention. I want to explain to you why it is necessary to fix the wire with a clamp. The fact is that many people, when turning off carrying or other electrical appliances, do not pull on the plug, but on the cable. And thus the contact connection of the core with the contact of the plug can be damaged. Or the wire may be pulled out altogether.

Now we connect the wire to the outlet or to the socket block. To do this, we disassemble it. The ground wire, just as in the case of the plug, is crimped into the NCI tip. If this is not the case, then simply twist the core into a ring and connect it to the ground contact. The remaining two wires are connected to the corresponding terminals.

Now, in order to close the cover of the socket block, we need to make a special recess for the wire. Carefully cut it out, then lay the wire, close the lid and screw it on.

For a better understanding, watch the video.

And in this video, a person makes a transfer without explanation.

In principle, everything, the carrying is ready and it can be operated. But you and I can improve it and insert a button into it.

How to make an electric carrier with a switch.

I have had such cases that I included something in the carrier, but this device or tool does not work. And then I start looking for what is the reason - in a power tool or in a carrying case. But if a backlit button is installed on the socket block, then it becomes visually visible whether there is voltage in the carrying. And the search circle is significantly reduced.

So let's install a backlit button in our carrier. Of course, you can go the easier way and buy a ready-made socket block in the store already with a button. But for us, the installation process itself is important, so we will install the button ourselves.

In the hardware store we buy a KCD3 backlit button. When buying, pay attention to the technical specifications. It is necessary that the button be designed for a voltage of at least 220 V, usually 250 V, current 16 A are written on them, and the degree of protection must be no less than IP - 55.

There will be three contacts on the button. Two are needed for connecting (switching) power, and the third for backlighting.

To install the button in our socket block, we need to cut a corresponding hole for it. To do this, you can use a drill and a small file (needle file). We drill several holes, and then with a file we adjust to the desired dimensions. The main thing is not to overdo it so that the button does not hang out in the case.

The button should be marked where the input and output are, and where the contact for the backlight is.

Now we connect the button as follows: connect the wire from the contact terminal of the socket to the backlight contact. If you have PVS, then you need to connect the blue core. Now, so to speak, we connect the phase conductor to the “input”, and connect the wire from the “output” to the second contact terminal of the socket.

The third wire, as you remember, sits on our ground. We close the cover of the socket block and you can check.

If you turn on the button, it should light up, and thus it will signal that there is voltage in the outlet. When turned off, the backlight will turn off, and, accordingly, the sockets will not work.

Attention. With such a button connection scheme, the circuit breaks on only one wire, that is, the phase in the sockets may be present. If you need to completely remove the voltage from the outlet, then in this case you need to install two buttons. Or if you buy a block of sockets with a button already mounted, then there should also be two of them.

As a reinforcement of knowledge, I advise you to watch the video clip.

Good video how to make a carry with a switch

How to fix an extension cord at home

That's all for me. I hope the article was useful to you. Click on the buttons of social networks, and subscribe to updates. Ask your questions in the comments. Bye.

Sincerely, Alexander!

In everyday life, situations often arise when, during construction work, it is necessary to move the connection point to the facade of the building or to the fence. The stationary installation of the outlet, in this case, is both impractical and dangerous, so the power is supplied using an electrical extension cord. In the same way, you can solve design flaws in household appliances (a short cord or a cross-section mismatch with the load) or organize network connection points in any place convenient for you. To do this, you will need to make an electric extension cord with your own hands.

What do you need to make an extension cord?

An electric carrier can be assembled from any materials at hand (old household appliances, cable remnants, etc.). If not, purchase all items from scratch. For manufacturing, take the following materials and elements:

• collapsible plug;
• cable of the required length;
• closed electrical socket or block of sockets (depending on how many connection points you need).

To disassemble the elements and then assemble an electrical extension cord from them, use a screwdriver of a suitable size and shape. To cut the wires, you will need wire cutters or pliers, a clerical knife to remove insulation.

To prevent overheating and accidents, all parts for electric carrying must be selected for specific needs.

How to choose materials?

For example, if you install the unit on two sockets, one of which is designed for a vacuum cleaner that consumes 5 A, and the second for an electric drill that consumes 3 A. Thus, the total current will be 8 A. Accordingly, in this case, you will have enough plugs and sockets with a nominal value at 10 A, while leaving a margin of 2 A if you need to connect a more powerful device.

To determine the cross section of the wire, the same amount of load is used, to which 20 - 30% is added for a safety margin. The specific value of the core area is selected from the table so that the resulting value of the connected load does not exceed the allowable value for this wire.

Table: dependence of the permissible load on the cross section of the core

For example, for a load of 8 A, you add 20% margin I \u003d 8 + 1.6 \u003d 9.6 A. Since copper wire is much more convenient and preferable for an electrical extension cord, consider it as an example. For the example under consideration, any brand of cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is quite enough for you.

It should be noted that if you are going to use a homemade extension cord in a three-wire system (phase, zero and ground), then you will need a cable with three cores, and sockets and a switch should have three outputs. If your house uses only two wires - phase and zero, it makes no sense to make an extension cord with three leads.

Making an extension cord: step by step instructions

As a rule, the manufacturing process does not take much time, so if you have all the necessary elements and tools, you can make an electric extension cord in 15 to 20 minutes. To do this, follow these steps:

Be careful not to cut the wire strands, otherwise this will reduce the cross section and may lead to further overheating at the attachment point.

Note that the assembled fork should not have gaps - both parts fit snugly together. If you find a gap, take it apart again and fix the cause of the unevenness. At the exit from the plug, the extension cord should fit snugly to the edges, if its diameter is not enough, add some electrical tape.

Rice. 5: assemble the plug

As standard, they are equipped with one bolt in the center of the socket, but if the cover does not lend itself, the structure should be inspected for additional attachment points.

Rice. 7: standard socket attachment point

If you are making a device for a three-wire network, be sure to follow the wire markings. Especially for the ground wire, otherwise you can apply voltage to the body of the device.

1. Assemble the socket in reverse order, the electrical extension cord is ready.

Rice. 9: assemble the outlet - the extension cord is ready

Please note that when connecting certain parts, contact must be provided using special clamps, sleeves or by soldering. In no case is it allowed to provide contact only by screwing the wire to the lamellas or other parts. After making an electric extension cord, do not rush to plug it into the outlet, first check its serviceability with.

Checking the health of the electrical extension cord.

To check the performance of the carrying, you will need a regular multimeter or megohmmeter. The whole process can be conditionally divided into checking the integrity of the line and checking the insulation. Initially set the multimeter to mode:

• Connect one lead of the multimeter to the socket of the socket, and with the second touch the contact of the plug of the electrical extension cord. If the device does not indicate the presence of a circuit, touch the second pin of the plug.
• Hold the multimeter probe on the same contact of the plug, where the device showed the circuit, and check the other sockets in the block. Their contacts of the same name should also give a circuit on the ringing of an electric extension cord.
• Check the second pair of contacts of electrical outlets and the output of the extension plug, they should also show the presence of a circuit on the ring.
• If you are using a three-wire extension cord, ring the circuit between the grounding pins on the plug and each of the outlets in the same way.

Rice. 10: the principle of continuity of the extension cord

The presence of a circuit between all of the listed terminals indicates that the extension cord can normally transmit electricity in a closed circuit. But, in addition to the circuit, you need to make sure that the insulation is in good condition. What is a megohmmeter used for, but if it is not available, you can use the same multimeter in insulation measurement mode. For industrial purposes, measuring insulation with a multimeter is not permissible, but for domestic needs this will be quite enough.

During the measurement, you need to set the limit to the maximum value of the resistance kΩ or MΩ. Bring the probes to the phase and zero terminals on the plug, if the resistance is more than 500 MΩ or infinity, its level is sufficient for the normal operation of the electric extension cord.

Rice. 11: resistance measurement between phase and zero

If the resistance tends to zero or is tens of ohms, you have broken the insulation somewhere and you need to double-check all the places of electrical contacts in the extension cord. If there is a grounding contact, the resistance value must also be checked between the phase - ground and between zero - ground.

Rice. 12: ground resistance measurement

If during the tests you determined the integrity of the phase, zero and ground circuits in the manufactured electrical extension cord, as well as a sufficient level of resistance between all terminals, then such a carrying can be safely used to connect equipment.

Video instruction