How to make a pool in the bath? Step-by-step instruction. Swimming pool in the bath - what should we build ourselves! We build a bath with a pool with our own hands

Traditionally, we are used to the fact that pools are installed in a Finnish sauna. There you can quickly and safely refresh the body, warmed up after a hot steam room.

And the Russian banya never had a pool inside, so people ran out in the winter right into the frost and rolled in the snow or jumped into the hole.

For more comfort and a pleasant stay, many people want to have a pool in a private bath. The opportunity to plunge into a font with pleasantly cooling water will not leave anyone indifferent.

If you correctly master the sequence of construction work, then you can make such a design with your own hands.

The main types of bath pools

Before starting construction work, the most suitable type of structure must be determined. Types of pools for a bath can be divided:

According to the installation method:

Internal. Designed for installation in the interior of the bath, suitable for long-term use throughout the year.
External. Provide for outdoor installation on the site or under a canopy, used in the summer.

By type of construction: stationary, portable, miniature and hydromassage.

Stationary

Reliable and durable type of pools - stationary, or capital, structures.

They are reinforced bowls made of concrete, the inner surface of which is covered with waterproof facing materials. A concrete pool comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. To make a large stationary pool for a bath with your own hands, it will take from 1 to 3 months.

portable

The available version of artificial reservoirs is represented by prefabricated mobile structures of various modifications and sizes, which are quickly assembled, dismantled and installed anywhere.

The frame pool consists of a bottom made of galvanized steel and sides. High tightness of the structure is achieved due to the polymer coating, which is installed on the bottom of the pool.

Portable options include frame and inflatable tanks. Depending on the size, they can be ground (depth up to 68 cm), with a partial recess (depth up to 118 cm), with a full recess (depth from 122 cm).

Hydromassage

Compact tanks designed for small baths. Such structures are made of acrylic and fiberglass material, equipped with water compressors for massage, water heating element, LED lighting system and touch panel control.

These are more expensive pool options that require professional installation and maintenance. Such tanks are not designed for swimming, which is their main disadvantage.

miniature fonts

Mini-pools for a bath are compact in size and easy to install. Therefore, they are ideal for camping and stationary baths of various types. Miniature tanks are represented by fonts made of wood, plastic and polypropylene. The volume of fonts made of wood is from 380 to 1950 liters, of plastic and acrylic - at least 600 liters.

Additionally, they can be equipped with auxiliary devices and devices for convenient use. Installing small fonts does not take much time and does not take much effort, so any bath owner can handle it.

Working draft development

To make a pool in a bathhouse with your own hands of a small size - 2 × 2, it is recommended to prepare a working draft of the structure, which includes the following data:

site planning for construction;
construction parameters - type, size and shape;
calculation of loads acting on the structure;
terms of Use;
scheme for supplying the main communications;
miscalculation of building materials.

Project examples

The correct choice of a suitable location for the future hydraulic structure determines its dimensions and features of operation. If an outdoor stationary pool is provided near the bath, it is required to determine the level of groundwater for the correct arrangement of the foundation for the structure.

If the pool in the bath is planned to be built in the working room, then it is necessary to build an independent base for it that does not come into contact with the wall structures of the bath. In such a case, a technological gap must be observed between the walls of the bath and the sides of the structure, which is filled with fine sand or polystyrene foam chips.

Having decided on a suitable place for a hydraulic structure in a bath, you can consider choosing the type and size of the structure. When designing a tank, the main parameters of users should be taken into account - weight, height and physique.

Capital pool construction technology

So, how to build a pool in a capital-type bath yourself?

Step-by-step instructions will allow you to perform the work efficiently and safely. For construction work you will need:

concrete mixture;
sand and gravel;
narrow boards;
metal rods;
waterproofing;
Decoration Materials;
excavation equipment;
vibrating hammer;
building level;
trowel.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step plan for arranging a bath with a pool with your own hands:

They dig a pit 55 cm wider in width, 35 cm in depth than a pool bowl.
The bottom is made with observance of a slope in relation to the drain hole. A drain pipe (diameter up to 12 cm) is mounted in a recessed section of the pit and fixed to a drainage pipe, which leads into a drainage well or drain pit. The distance between the pool and septic tanks must be at least 4.5 m.
The bottom is equipped with a waterproof cushion of sand and gravel. First, a sandy layer up to 8 cm high is poured, then a gravel layer of 5 cm is poured, after which everything is carefully rammed using a rammer.
Pins (diameter up to 1.5 cm) are driven in along future wall structures with a small step of 35 cm.
Perform horizontal strapping to obtain a strong mesh with separate cells - 35 sq. see To increase the strength of the structure, the individual elements of the grid can be connected with a thin wire.
The prepared bottom of the pool is poured with a concrete mixture up to 12 cm high and the base is reinforced. The mesh is securely fixed with a reinforcing frame, after which it is re-poured with concrete. For the arrangement of the base, it is recommended to choose moisture-resistant concrete.
The concrete bottom is left for 15-18 hours until completely solidified.
Any pool device in the bath provides for additional waterproofing. Rolled roofing material is used as a waterproofing material. A roofing material of the required size is laid on a concrete base.
With the help of bars, the formwork boards are driven into the inside of the pit, observing the required distance between the formwork and the walls - 25 cm.
The formwork is poured with concrete mix to a height of 25 cm, rammed and re-poured.
2 days after pouring, the removable formwork is dismantled. It will take 12 to 18 days for the concrete to fully set. The first 7 days, the concrete is thoroughly moistened every 4 hours.

decorative trim

After completing the main work, you can proceed to the decorative finishing of the structure - leveling, plastering and wall cladding. In addition, at this stage, the walls of the tank are covered with a final layer of waterproofing.

The construction market offers a huge selection of practical and durable materials that can be used to line bath pools. The most popular of them are mosaic and PVC film.

The best option for finishing the bowl is a glass and porcelain mosaic. Such material is characterized by high strength, wear resistance, frost resistance, moisture resistance and durability. The small dimensions of the mosaic elements and a wide range of colors allow you to implement any design project and make the pool a work of art.
A cheap and affordable design option is PVC film. Such material does not require laying an additional waterproofing layer, which is its indisputable advantage. But to increase the performance of the film, the pool bowl can be treated with liquid waterproofing. To finish the tank, it is recommended to use a material with a thickness of more than 3 mm with a rough surface. Finishing films are presented in a wide range of colors and textures, which allows you to get an original landscape design.

Experienced builders do not recommend using ceramic tiles for cladding, the porous structure of which is prone to rapid absorption of moisture, which is an ideal environment for the development of pathogenic organisms. If possible, it should be replaced with porcelain tiles.

To properly clad the pool in the bath with your own hands, all work is performed in the following order:

After the concrete base has dried, the surface is plastered. As a plaster, a mortar based on cement and sand with the addition of ceresite emulsion is used.
The plastered surface is decorated with decorative material - mosaic, porcelain tiles or PVC film. To fix the material, a moisture-resistant adhesive composition for pools is used.
After the completion of decorative finishing, the installation of the main operational equipment is carried out: a water pump, water purification and heating devices, and lighting fixtures.

Frame pool installation

If there is no desire and technical capabilities to equip a stationary structure, then a frame-type pool can be made.

The construction of such a tank will be much cheaper, and its installation will not require much effort and time. It is enough to follow all the points of the step-by-step guide:

For a homemade frame pool, it is recommended to use a dense PVC fabric of the required size. Such material is characterized by high strength, low hygroscopicity, durability and practicality. Absolute tightness is achieved by welding the seams with hot air. For this, a building hair dryer with an operating air temperature of 25 to 650 degrees is used. The fabric is spread on a flat surface, a drain hole is marked and welded to obtain the desired shape of the bowl.
In the prepared frame - a wooden, plastic, metal container or another type of tank - PVC fabric is placed and securely fixed in the upper part of the structure.
The finished tank is filled with water by 15–20 cm, the PVC base is straightened, additionally fixed to ensure the required margin of safety. The remaining volume of the pool is topped up with water.

Having an idea of how to equip a pool in a bathhouse with your own hands, you can save a lot of money and gain useful experience.

Especially if after the steam room you can plunge into the cool pool, which gives vigor and refreshes the steamed body. If you have a sauna, but it does not have a pool, you can make it yourself. Making a pool in the bath with your own hands is quite realistic. In this article we will talk about the technology, subtleties and many nuances of building a pool.

Which pool to choose

First you need to decide which pool you need, as they may differ from each other. And the point is not only in their size, but also in the design features. You should know that pools can be divided into 3 types:

Stationary pools. They are called the most durable and reliable. Such structures can be initially provided during the construction of the bath or made later. The basis for them is a reinforced concrete bowl, which is installed on the foundation in a pre-dug hole. Such pools can be of any depth and dimensions. They are divided into ground and buried types.
Prefabricated pools. They can be called mobile structures. This is a godsend for people who often move or for those who need a pool periodically. It can be easily dismantled and installed elsewhere. This is the main advantage of this type. If a pool was not planned in your bath, it can be easily installed. Moreover, saving space is another plus of such pools.
You will not be able to swim in such hydromassage pools. This water tank is used for special procedures only. All that is required of you is to buy it and install it in the right place.

If space in your building is completely limited, then a mini-pool will suit you - these are various barrels and fonts. Such small containers can be made of wood, plastic or acrylic.

When you have made your choice, you can proceed directly to the work. In this article, we will not consider collapsible pools and spa structures, since their installation is quite simple and is done according to the instructions. Next, you will learn in detail how to make a stationary pool and what you need for this.

Deciding on a place

An important step in the construction of your pool is the choice of location. You need to decide where it will be placed: indoors or outdoors. All this will affect the size of the future structure and when it will be used - all year round or only during the warm period.

Consider how close the groundwater is. The distance from the bottom of the pool to groundwater should not be less than 1 m. Moreover, the walls of the bath and the pool should not touch. Otherwise, water will put pressure on the walls, as a result of which cracks may form. Please note that even a small tank can hold approximately 10 tons of water. Therefore, it is important to leave a gap between the walls, which is covered with sand.

If you decide to build outside, the best option would be to install a foundation under the pool. Then you do not need to be afraid of groundwater.

Designing a future tank

Any builder knows that nothing can be built without a detailed project. Therefore, you need to plan everything in detail, considering:

pool dimensions;
its form;
conducting and diverting water;
waterproofing;
design;

The size and shape of the bowl plays an important role, since these indicators significantly affect the cost of the entire construction. The larger the size and the more complex the configuration, the higher the costs will be.

To save on construction, choose a rectangular design. In this case, the consumption of materials will be much less. A round or oval pool will cost you a lot more, but it will look more attractive.

Excavation

After all the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to solving the problem of arranging a bath in your area. First of all, you need to dig a foundation pit for the pool, based on its size. The pit itself should be 50 cm larger in width and length of the pool, and its depth should be 35–45 cm. For convenience, the pool can be marked on the ground, according to the plan. There is nothing complicated, it is enough to use pegs with a stretched rope around the perimeter.

After that, you need to dig a pit. If the pool is indoors or there is no access for an excavator, then you will have to dig manually. The bottom is made with a slight slope in one direction, where the drain pipe pipe will be located. It must be installed in advance. Immediately install a pipe from the drain to the sewer or drainage pit with the required slope. After that, pour, level and compact the sand at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 4-5 cm. The second layer is fine crushed stone 10 cm. It also needs to be tamped. This pillow will be the basis for pouring concrete.

Now you need to fill the prepared base with concrete with a layer of 10 cm. After that, make a reinforcing mesh on the surface and again fill everything with concrete 10 cm. Thanks to this technology, you can ensure the durability, strength and reliability of the bottom of the pool.

Concrete must be of high quality and absorb a minimum of moisture. We recommend using concrete grade W-8, it has the required density in structure and minimum absorbency.

It is not necessary to wait until the concrete base dries, so that the reliability of the structure does not decrease. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the walls at the same time as concreting the bottom of the pool. When the bottom is filled, install the formwork and secure it. Then place the reinforcing mesh and concrete the walls. To prevent seams from forming between the wall and the bottom, the concrete must be bayoneted. Only in this way can the design of the pool be made monolithic.

It is important to pour the walls at one time so that they are reliable and do not crack in the future, so prepare the required amount of concrete in advance.

After pouring the walls, the concrete must immediately be compacted, expelling air bubbles from it. The result will be much better if you use a concrete vibrator. After that, the entire surface must be leveled. After a while, it is tedious to remove the formwork. When this can be done, you will find out from the table:

During this time, we recommend moistening the surface a little every day, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks that form when the concrete dries out.

Once everything is dry, it is necessary to plaster the surface with a cement-sand mortar. Its thickness should be 2–3 cm. Since it concerns a pool where water will always be, it is better to use waterproof compounds with latex. Then the plaster will hold firmly and for a long time, and thanks to the additives it will be much more elastic and acquire better water resistance.

An important step is waterproofing, since we are talking about water. The most economical and fastest option is to use PVC film. It is covered over the entire surface of the pool bowl. More expensive and more reliable will be the option when the concrete bowl is covered from the inside with a special waterproofing material. This may be "Osmosil", which must be applied in two layers on a pre-moistened surface. After that, the final layer will be a special adhesive composition, which includes latex. Such glue is able to hold even glass.

Facing works

Now our bath with a pool, which is almost ready. It remains only to perform facing work to ennoble it. This is the last stage of work. Facing materials are presented in a large assortment. You need to decide not only on the choice of material for work, but also on the color. The most popular facing materials used for swimming pools are mosaic, tile and PVC film.

Tile. For finishing pools in baths and saunas, special tiles are used made of porcelain. Its main advantage is the density, which is much higher than that of ceramic tiles, and it absorbs water much less. Before buying a tile, it is important to take into account its moisture absorption rate - it should not exceed 3%.

Ceramic tiles are not suitable for this purpose, due to the fact that it absorbs moisture well. As a result, such a pool will be a breeding ground for bacteria and mold. Therefore, if your choice fell on tiles, use only porcelain products. With special manufacturing technology, it is high temperature resistant, waterproof, durable and anti-slip. The only drawback of this material is its cost. You can choose tiles of any size and color range.

Mosaic. The most popular option in pool cladding, and for good reason, as it is the best. Mosaic has excellent water resistance, density and strength. It is non-porous and has high wear resistance. And thanks to the small size of the tiles, from 1x1 to 5x5 cm, you can decorate your pool with various ornaments, patterns and designs. Moreover, you can lay out the mosaic on a surface with various irregularities. But do not think that if your pool is large, then you will just get tired of laying out each tile by hand. Mosaic is sold in ready-made sheets, the tiles of which are connected by a grid. But the price of the mosaic is also high.

PVC film. The cheapest option for facing the pool. Its thickness can be 1-1.5 mm. It has excellent waterproofing characteristics and consists of 3 layers. Between the 3rd and 2nd layer is a durable synthetic mesh. The film is not exposed to chemical or natural influences, it is easy to wash. On top there is a rough layer, which is very resistant to various microorganisms. The price of such a film is 2 or 3 times cheaper than mosaics and tiles.

After you have chosen the material, it remains to complete the cladding and install the stairs to the pool. Now you know how to build your own swimming pool and you can start working with confidence. It remains only to enjoy the cool water after a hot bath. By the way, it was found that if you plunge into cold water after a good warm-up for 3-5 minutes, a large amount of endorphins is released into the blood. This relieves stress, chronic fatigue, strengthens the immune system and rejuvenates the body. We wish you good health!

Video

This video covers the top ten mistakes that are often made when building a pool:

Photo

Your own well-equipped bath will be a great place to relax with your family, a cheerful company of friends, and even alone, especially if you equip the steam room with a swimming pool. You can handle the arrangement of the pool in the sauna or bath with your own hands - there is nothing super complicated in this event, you just need to read the manual, remember a few important nuances and do everything according to the instructions.

There are several types of pools for baths.

Stationary

considered the most reliable. The base of such a pool is represented by a reinforced concrete bowl. Work on the arrangement of such a structure requires preliminary digging of a foundation pit and pouring the foundation. The pool can have a wide variety of dimensions, depth and shape - it all depends on the preferences of the owner and the area of \u200b\u200bhis bath.

collapsible

Very convenient mobile designs. The advantage is that if necessary, such a pool can be disassembled, moved and assembled in a new place. The design is based on polyvinyl chloride.

Prefabricated structures are extremely easy to install, can have various sizes and are sold at an affordable cost.

Among the shortcomings, it should be noted the lower reliability and lower strength compared to stationary pools.

Hydromassage

Often installed in various spas and simple bath complexes. They have small dimensions - you won’t be able to swim in such a pool with all your desire, but you can plunge into it after the steam room and further relax under the influence of hydromassage.

Spa pools are sold ready-made and do not require a separate installation.

When choosing a particular type of pool, be guided by the dimensions of your bath and personal preferences. This manual will consider the procedure for arranging a full-fledged stationary structure.

What needs to be done before starting the main work?

Before proceeding with the construction of the pool, choose the size and shape of the structure that suits you, and also choose a convenient place to place the reservoir.

When choosing a place, be guided by personal preferences, there are no special recommendations at this moment. The main thing is that the bottom of the pool is at a distance of at least 50-100 cm from groundwater.

It is for protection from groundwater and, in general, to increase the reliability of the structure that the pool must be equipped on a separate foundation.

Prepare in advance all the necessary devices for arranging the pool. The list of tools and materials will vary depending on the font configuration you choose.

In general, you will need standard building kit which includes the following devices:

shovels;
level;
formwork boards;
ready-made concrete or container and components for its preparation;
various kinds of steel structures (channels, angles, etc.);
waterproofing material. A plastic film with a thickness of about 0.7 mm is perfect. Use an acrylic-coated film - this material tolerates chlorine well and eliminates the possibility of algae. If you wish, you can choose a more modern and expensive material.

Decide in advance whether you will buy concrete or prepare it yourself. Professionals recommend using concrete with a high water absorption rate. The best option is concrete W8. This material has a dense structure and absorbs a minimum amount of moisture.

Pre-prepare the design of the pool. It is better if the construction of the pool was originally included in the bath project. However, even in a finished steam room, you can equip an artificial reservoir without any problems.

Designing is a very important stage, the main characteristics of the finished pool directly depend on the quality and correct execution of it.

When creating a project, you need to do the following:

solve architectural issues. Think about whether your bath pool should be equipped with a variety of additions such as artificial waterfalls, slides, etc.;
design individual elements of the pool bowl;
calculate load bearing structures.

In the absence of design skills, entrust the drawing up of drawings to qualified specialists or find all the necessary documentation in open sources. Drawings will allow you to cope with the arrangement of the pool as soon as possible.

With the help of a well-designed project, you will be able to solve the following tasks:

calculate the main parameters of the bowl of an artificial reservoir;
choose equipment for arranging the pool;
plan engineering communications;
provide for the installation of embedded elements;
take into account the main and additional nuances of convenient and safe use of the pool;
calculate the required amount of materials for construction and decoration;
calculate the approximate cost of arranging a bath pool.

It is better that a detailed explanatory note is included with the drawings, indicating such points as:

installed equipment;
ways to clean and replace water;
used reagents;
other subtleties and important nuances of arranging the pool and its further operation.

The work on the independent arrangement of the bath pool is carried out in several stages.

1. water supply
2. drain pipe (overflow)
3. water drain pipe
4. wooden boards
5. drainage mixture
6. pit (side walls)
7. wedges for fixation
8. metal plates
9. stairs
10. playground
11. the inside of the wooden shield
12. the outer part of the wooden shield
13. bar
14. fixings (nails, bolts)
15. rail for clamping
16. insulating film(PVC)

First step. Dig a pit. Select the depth and dimensions of the pit in accordance with the design data. The depth of the pit should be approximately 15 cm higher than the depth of the future pool.

Second step.

Third step.

Fourth step. Lay reinforcing mesh.

Fifth step. Pour the second layer of concrete.

Sixth step.

Seventh step. Fill the walls with concrete. In this case, the bowl must be filled in one go, because pouring the walls in several stages will lead to a significant decrease in the reliability of the structure.

After pouring, the concrete must be treated appropriately to remove excess air. For this operation, it is best to use a vibrating hammer.

In the absence of such, simply pierce the concrete with a rebar in several places. In the future, the voids will need to be carefully filled with a solution.

Align the filling and leave it to dry for about a month. Water the concrete periodically to prevent cracking.

If you do not have time to wait, instead of a concrete bowl, you can build a prefabricated structure from caissons. These products are metal plates. Concrete is poured between them. At the end, the seams are welded.

The option with caissons has a big drawback - the seams can be depressurized. Therefore, this method should be preferred only as a last resort.

Eighth step. Waterproof dry concrete. There are several options for arranging moisture protection. The fastest and most budgetary method is a simple plastic film flooring. It is enough to simply cover the inner surface of the concrete bowl with a film.

A more modern, reliable and high-quality method of waterproofing is the coating of concrete with special compositions such as osmosis. Such products are applied in a double layer on a pre-moistened surface. A third layer of a special adhesive composition with a latex additive is applied on top. The result is the most reliable and high-quality protection against moisture.

Finishing options

In conclusion, you will have to complete the finishing lining of the pool bowl. To do this, you can use various materials.

Tile

For facing of pools the special porcelain tile is used. Such a material has a higher density and a much lower water absorption rate compared to the popular ceramic counterpart. This tile is quite expensive.

It is important that the water absorption coefficient of the lining is no more than 3%. It is strongly not recommended to use ceramic tiles for swimming pools. This material has a porous structure, it will absorb and accumulate moisture, thereby creating favorable conditions for the reproduction of various harmful microorganisms.

When choosing tiles, give preference to elements with a rough surface - they do not glide as much as compared to smooth counterparts.

There are several types of mosaics. The best option in terms of quality and cost is tempered glass mosaic. This is a dense and durable material that perfectly tolerates moisture.

The main advantage of the mosaic lies in the possibility of implementing the most interesting and unusual design projects - even real paintings can be laid out from small cladding elements.

At the same time, the mosaic is extremely wear-resistant, reliable and non-porous.

PVC based film

The most budgetary material for finishing the pool. It has a thickness of about 1-1.5 mm.

PVC film is characterized by excellent waterproofing qualities. The material consists of 4 layers. A strong synthetic mesh is laid between the 2nd and 3rd layers, which improves the performance of the film.

This finish is resistant to a variety of natural and chemical influences. The material is extremely simple and unpretentious in care.

The top layer of the film has some roughness, which makes the material less slippery and more resistant to various kinds of microorganisms.

A geotextile fabric is preliminarily placed under the film.

Thus, if you have enough space in the bath, free time and budget, you can safely proceed to the arrangement of a full-fledged stationary pool. If you have problems with any of the parameters mentioned, install some small font or barrel instead of a concrete bowl.

Such containers, of course, are not as comfortable and spacious as the pool considered earlier, but they allow you to take a dip after the steam room and cool your body. For the rest, focus on your needs and capabilities, follow the instructions and everything will work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself bath with a pool

The swimming pool has been known in bathing since ancient times. Even the ancient Greek baths had them in their arsenal, and even the legendary ones brought their use to practical perfection. In the domestic bath tradition, a few decades ago, its presence immediately ranked the institution as an elite one, and current modern technologies allow you to build a pool in a bath with your own hands quickly and efficiently. How exactly? Now we'll tell you.

Before you build a pool in the bath, you need to understand their typology and find out which design, in a particular case, will be optimal.

Stationary pool

It is a capital structure that has a permanent location, its transfer to another point in the bath room is not feasible, and all communications for its operation are located in stationary technological channels. Such a do-it-yourself pool for a bath, built and ennobled, is carried out with a long-term perspective. That is, the redevelopment of the internal bath volume is not planned in principle, and the functioning of the pool is associated with a sufficient area of the washing department and a well-developed infrastructure of the bath, in general. For a stationary structure, several characteristic features are inherent:

It can be a type of concrete bowl, sufficient area and depth. For other types of pools, which we will consider below, the use of concrete, reinforced concrete, polymer concrete, in the vast majority of cases, is not typical.
As a rule, such structures have the maximum area and the widest range of functions, relative to their counterparts.
It is stationary structures, albeit the most expensive in construction, but at the same time, they are the most durable and reliable.

Important! Technologies for creating polymer concrete stationary pools have been successfully practiced in the West for a long time, in our realities, the limiting factor for their widespread use is the lack of normal domestic polymer additives that would guarantee excellent quality throughout the entire life of the facility.

Mobile structures

They are based on a set of elements, which, when assembled in a certain sequence and in compliance with the methods of waterproofing, allows you to get a fully functional capacity, albeit somewhat limited in its capabilities, relative to stationary pools. It is for mobile structures that the question of how to make a pool in a bath with your own hands, in most cases, comes down to assembling a finished structure of industrial production. Does such a pool have pronounced positive points? Undoubtedly. Here they are:

Even in the most conservative bath, sometimes there is a need for redevelopment. It is these designs that can ensure its implementation almost painlessly, which cannot be said about stationary pools. After all, their dismantling means only the destruction and construction of such a structure "from scratch";
Such containers are inexpensive, easy to transport and install. Which, in turn, favorably affects the speed of construction and arrangement of the pool, as such. Even today, your bathhouse was simple and unpretentious, and next week it is already with a pool, and with the onset of the warm season, it is already outside, and at sunset it is already warm again indoors. Miracles? No, absolute reality;
The cost of prefabricated structures is quite low and is more than covered by their main quality - extreme mobility.

Attention! The main disadvantage of such products is insufficient rigidity and a large number of mating nodes, the space of which must be reliably isolated from the external environment in order to prevent leaks. The overall rigidity of the structure imposes an objective limitation on the volume of the containing space, and the interfaces guarantee the retention of water only if the product is a product of a well-known well-deserved brand, and not a Chinese misunderstanding that, even when new, flows like an old well bucket on a forest farm forgotten by God.

SPA - swimming pools

Such designs stand apart from the rest, primarily due to the fact that their main function is still not an ordinary use in bathing, but rather exquisite and non-trivial procedures. The abundance of functions and the complexity of the design make the question of how to make a pool with your own hands in a bath of this type irrelevant. To be frank, the price of such complexes is far from being social. Although, what is there to be surprised. The wisdom as old as the world: “You have to pay for pleasure” never loses its relevance.

Fonts

Something between a stationary object and a mobile one. From the first, they inherited the capital arrangement of the base, from the second, low weight, small volume, ease of installation and accessibility. Such pools are great for small baths, such as, for example. The font can be traditional, made of wood, resistant to water, or made in the best trends of modern technology - reinforced polymer.

We admit honestly that the font will not provide an opportunity to swim in warm water. Its main goal is a quick and effective cooling of the body after a steam room, with a peculiar effect on the cardiovascular system, which is commonly called "vascular gymnastics". Hot tubs, in most cases, do not have a built-in water circulation and purification system. Due to the small internal volume, it is usually replaced completely, as needed, with the help of a submersible pump and water sources, either mains or isolated, for example, wells and wells.

Positioning relative to the floor surface

By and large, the whole variety of pools can be divided into two main types: buried and non-buried. Recessed structures require equipping a "bed" - a recess, relative to the floor level, into which the pool bowl is installed. Non-buried pools are installed with their soles directly on the floor surface.

Here, it is necessary to note the following regularity. The greater the volume of water held in the pool bowl, the deeper it must be positioned relative to the surface level. What is good recessed design:

Theoretically, the volume of water held in the bowl is limited by its strength, to a much lesser extent, since it is additionally supported by the array surrounding it.
These structures are easy to use, even for persons with limited mobility, since the water's edge is below the floor level.
Such systems can be very well equipped, since the equipment can also be placed in hidden cavities, channels and other communication systems. Without their output outside.
Finishing requires a much smaller area, since the outer part of the bowl is hidden under the surface to varying degrees.

Non-buried structures are much easier to arrange, since they do not require equipping a “bed”. This is especially convenient when the idea that it is worth organizing a pool with your own hands in the bath came after the bath was built and started to function. This quality negates the carrying out of dismantling work in the plane of the floor and excavation below it.

A word from Experienced! It is unlikely that it will be possible to equip a pool of sufficient depth in a sauna of a non-submerged type with your own hands. For example, if the ceiling height of the washing room does not exceed 2200 mm, then even with a pool depth of 1500 mm, the free space above the water level in practice will not exceed 500 mm. And this is negligible. These designs are good for outdoor use, especially in conditions of terrain difference. Then, to ensure a convenient approach to the water's edge, it is enough to organize a small podium, and in conditions of a steep fall, you can do without it at all. It is obvious that an unburied pool has a limit on its capacity, since it is determined by the bearing capacity and strength of the walls.

We build ourselves

As we said above, the arrangement of a pool in a bath, with respect to mobile structures and polymeric fonts, comes down to its installation and hydraulic piping, and in some cases, without it at all. Another thing is how to build a pool in a bath with your own hands of a stationary type. In this case, both the amount of work and the time for their implementation are assumed to be of a completely different order. However, first things first. We provide the answer to the question of how to make a pool in the bath with your own hands, a step-by-step guide.

Design stage

Designing a bath and designing a pool is the very first and, in many respects, the defining stage. It is on the correctness and rationality of the solutions incorporated in the project that the convenience of their use, the long-term and trouble-free operation, the cost of maintenance and service will depend. At this stage, it is determined:

Type of future pool;
Its capacity and depth;
Functionality, including the possibility of water recycling, its purification, the method of sewerage;
The locations of the hydraulic piping elements, the way they are fed are determined;
The method and technology of the construction of the bowl and its decoration;
Possibility of carrying out service maintenance and repair work.

Naturally, we have given only the key, reference points of the project, which, under certain circumstances, cannot be an exhaustive list.

Foundation pit

At this stage, the method of excavation, the total amount of excavated soil and the method of its disposal are determined.

The pit should be 450 - 550 mm wider than the pool perimeter and 250 - 280 mm deeper than its bottom line. The laying of communication pipes, in the absence of a forced drainage regime, should be carried out with a rational slope of 1.75 - 3.5 degrees towards the intake manifold.

Remember! When excavating the soil, it is necessary to take into account the coefficient of its loosening. For clays and loams, it is 1.42 - 1.57. That is 10 cubic meters. m. in the whole, will mean, on average, 15 cubic meters in a dumped heap.

After a rough excavation, the bottom of the pit and its walls are worked "clean", giving it the final designed geometric shape.

A damper layer of sand and gravel mixture is laid at the bottom. To do this, 100 mm of sand is laid, spilled with water and carefully rammed, on top of 100 mm of crushed stone of a fraction of 5 - 20 mm, for better klintsevanie mass and also carefully rammed.

If the possibility of water circulation is designed, then after that intake pipes are laid and technological cavities are equipped for mounting screamers and other hydraulic piping.

The final stage is the laying of primary waterproofing, which we once talked about.

Forming a concrete bowl

The key operation in solving the problem is how to make a pool in the bath. The durability and functionality of the pool will directly depend on the quality and manufacturability of the work performed. So, in stages:

The sole of the pool is poured with high-grade concrete, prepared at the rate of: 1 part of sand per 1 part of Portland cement, grade not lower than 400. For such work, it is better to use enriched quartz sand, however, it should be remembered that it is necessary to work with it very quickly, since such concrete is very drains water quickly. It is necessary to constantly mix the mass, up to the moment of direct laying.
On top of the first, "root" layer of concrete, a reinforcing mesh is laid in such a way that it completely covers the plane of the base of the pool. It is worth noting that the reinforcing frame set must be made together with the walls, so that by installing the formwork in one operation, it would be possible to form the walls of the bowl.
After laying the reinforcing mesh, the next, “covering” layer is poured, which should completely hide the reinforcement.
After the sole of the bowl is formed, its walls are poured. It should be noted that by this time it is necessary to take care of the continuous supply of concrete into the formwork space, preventing interruption of the operation, until the mixture sets. Step-by-step, time-consuming pouring of concrete can lead to the formation of so-called "bridges", that is, places where a fresh solution lay down on an already reacted and set one. This phenomenon negatively affects the overall strength of the structure, and in the case of using a concrete bowl as a full-flowing pool, the strength requirements are fundamental. Continuous preparation and laying of ready-mixed concrete can be provided by means of mechanizing the process, which can be both a concrete mixer, at the stage of preparation on their own, and a concrete pump, in the case of using ready-made concrete produced at the facilities of an industrial concrete unit. If the laying process could not be completed in one day, then at the junction of the old and new layers, before starting a new pour, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 15 - 20 mm, to a depth of 100 - 120 mm. The concrete mixture that has got into them will allow you to get a higher and better adhesion of the old and new concrete layer. When pouring the bowl, it is necessary to ensure that voids do not form in the concrete mass. They are well suppressed by the use of rammers, both mechanical and primitive manual. Upon completion of the work, it should be remembered that the graded strength of concrete appears only by the time of its full maturation, which ends on 21 days from the moment of its laying.
After the concrete has set and acquired its primary structural strength, the formwork is dismantled and waterproofing work begins. The choice of waterproofing material directly depends on the chosen type and type of interior finish of the pool bowl. If tiles are to be used as a final finish, then the use of liquid, fluid waterproofing materials should be considered a rational choice. We have already talked about the choice in detail, however, when solving the problem of how to make a pool in a bath, you should remember that it is possible to use finishing materials with zero or close to it water absorption coefficient. The most optimal option should be considered the use of so-called porcelain tiles and glass mosaics. When using a PVC film as a finishing layer, preference should be given to a material whose thickness is at least 3 mm.

By the way! When using a PVC film, it is worth carefully evaluating its frictional qualities. Too slippery coating can not only cause discomfort during use, but also become a source of injury, in particular ankle sprains.

The use of heating systems should be considered only in conjunction with measures for thermal insulation of the bowl, otherwise, the energy efficiency of such a hydraulic structure will be extremely low.

Conclusion

Concluding this review material, I would like to note several key moments that determine the quality of solving the problem of how to build a pool in a bathhouse. If your bath is small, built a long time ago, and its design does not provide for large-scale excavation work below the floor and foundation, then, of course, you should give preference to simpler, albeit less functional designs. With a certain study, it is possible to do without a strong deepening of the pool bowl or font. Practically, the following regularity has been worked out. If the depth of the water tank does not exceed 0.75 m, then it can be mounted without deepening at all. If this indicator increases to 1.25 m, then the level of penetration of the structure must be at least 50% of this value. If the depth reaches 1.5 m or more, then the bowl should be 100% deep. Naturally, as we said above, non-buried or partially buried structures located indoors must correspond with the height of the ceilings so that their use does not cause problems and difficulties. Otherwise, it is worth recognizing that the arrangement of a full-fledged pool in a bath is not an easy task, requiring a balanced technical calculation and qualified execution. And the maintenance of a complex hydraulic system is an expensive and costly task. However, its presence makes the rest in the bath not only rich and enjoyable, but also more systemic and complex, and the status of the bath itself rises to a much more significant and presentable level.

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Not a single Russian person will refuse to take a steam bath in plenty. Especially when it is equipped with a pool with cool water, which is so nice to plunge into after the heat of the steam room. You can build a pool in your own bathhouse yourself. True, you will have to spend a certain amount of time and money on its arrangement.

Pond in the bath - which one to choose?

Pools for private saunas are divided into several types. Each of them is characterized by its own operational and design features. The most reliable and durable are stationary structures, the basis of which is a bowl made of reinforced concrete. Such structures are divided into ground and dug. They are designed to any depth, come in a variety of sizes. The choice of a particular type of pool depends only on the wishes and financial capabilities of a person. Stationary bowls, as a rule, are mounted on a pre-prepared foundation. The cost of their construction can be quite serious. But the result of the work is, without exaggeration, excellent.

If the owner of a country house does not want to equip a stationary pool in his steam room, he has the opportunity to purchase a collapsible bowl. It is highly mobile. If desired, such a structure is easy to dismantle and quickly transfer to a new location. The durability of collapsible structures, most often made of polyvinyl chloride material, is not as impressive as that of stationary ones. But mobile bowls are installed much faster and easier, have any shape and size. On their own, any home craftsman can mount such pools without any problems.

Quite small private saunas, into which it is impossible to squeeze more or less large-sized bowls, are usually equipped with mini-pools. These are understood as special containers made of fiberglass, acrylic or wood. They are made in most cases in the form of barrels or elongated fonts. The most popular mini-pools made of wood (larch, beech, oak) with a volume of 500-1500 liters. They are not cheap. Therefore, in recent years, many people have turned their attention to more affordable bowls made of plastic and acrylic. Their capacity reaches 5-6 cubic meters.

Jacuzzis can be singled out as a separate group - hydromassage structures that are compact in size, in which a person completely relaxes after visiting the steam room. It is impossible to swim in such pools because of their small size. Jacuzzis are sold ready-made. Their cost is high. Not every owner of a modest country bathhouse can afford to buy such an artificial pond for a sauna.

Designing a swimming pool - is it that difficult?

Having decided on the type of reservoir, we decide what configuration and geometric dimensions it will have. Here you need to understand that large-sized and complex-shaped bowls will require large construction costs. If the financial budget for the pool in the bath is limited, we always choose rectangular (square) structures. Their installation requires fewer materials. And the process of arranging such bowls is noticeably simpler.

When choosing a place to build a pool, consider the following:

From the groundwater level, the bottom of an artificial pond for a bath should be located at a distance of more than one meter.
It is not allowed to contact the wall surfaces of the steam room with the side parts of the installed font. With this method of installation, the risk of cracks in the structure of the bath increases.
The gap between the walls of the room and the bowl must be laid with foam or covered with ordinary construction sand.

If we want to get a really high-quality pool in the sauna, it is best to order its project in a professional atelier. Specialists will indicate in it the features of the installation of the structure, describe the equipment necessary for the supply and removal of water, its purification, and also perform the design binding of the bowl to the existing interior of the steam room.

In general, a professional project makes it possible to:

correctly fix the embedded parts;
calculate the static and dynamic pressure on the bottom and walls of the reservoir;
choose the best engineering communications;
decide what materials and in what quantities will be required for the construction of the structure of interest to us;
develop special measures for safe and truly comfortable use of the pool.

You can make a project of a stationary reservoir for a bath yourself. In this case, you can use the scheme presented by us above, or look for a more suitable option for you. If you plan to install a collapsible plastic structure, a mini-pool or a jacuzzi, we recommend that you focus on the tips set out in the instructions for such structures. Everything is explained there simply and clearly.

Stationary reservoir - we prepare a pit and concrete it

To build a durable bowl in the bath with your own hands, ordinary and well-known materials and special devices are required. We need to stock up:

reinforcing bars used to strengthen individual parts of stationary pools;
cement and sand;
wood for creating formwork, building and finishing railings and steps leading to the reservoir;
pipes of different sections;
facing products (metal sheet, tile, and so on);
waterproofing film;
tool for excavation and other works;
pumping equipment for supplying and pumping water.

The first stage of construction work is the digging of a foundation pit for the planned construction in the bathhouse. We take the depth of the pit about 40 cm more than the depth of the pool itself, the width and length - 50 cm more. Important! The bottom of the pit is carried out with a slight slope. At the same time, at the lowest section of the pit, before the start of all construction work, we will need to install a pipe with a diameter of 8–10 cm. We will connect a drain pipe to it. Through it, water will come out of the reservoir. We will lay the pipe in the direction of the sewer or drainage well. These structures should be removed from the bath by 5-6 meters (at least).

We fill the bottom of the pit with sand. The layer of material is about 5 cm. We compact the sand and pour crushed stone of medium size on it (about 10 cm). We compact this layer. It is desirable to perform the operation with a manual rammer made of wood. Now we knead the cement (1 part), crushed stone (5 hours) and sand (3 hours), add water, pour the prepared gravel and sand pie with the resulting mixture. Even better is to use ready-mixed concrete. We choose the brand of material W-8. It is characterized by high moisture resistance and density. The thickness of the concrete is 10 cm. After pouring, we mount a reinforcing mesh on the bottom. We make it from reinforcement with a diameter of 0.8–1.2 cm. We connect the mesh into one piece with a knitting wire. We fill the reinforcement with another 10 cm of concrete.

Next, we move on to building walls. We mount the formwork knocked down from the boards. We place reinforcing elements in it (in the form of the same mesh). We concrete wall surfaces. Nuance. Concrete is bayoneted with a shovel or iron bar. Thus, we will achieve its perfect adhesion to the surface of the walls. In addition, the concrete layer (its thickness is about 25 cm) must be compacted with a rammer.

Another important point. Apply the concrete mixture with minimal interruptions. The more time passes between the pouring of its individual portions, the less durable the wall surfaces are. After complete concreting of the pool, we must drive out air bubbles from the composition using a vibrating hammer or a deep vibrator.

The bowl is ready - what to do next?

After the concrete hardens (it takes about 30 days), we have at our disposal a finished pool. We only need to bring it to mind by doing relatively simple work. To begin with, we plaster the walls of the bowl. For these purposes, we use dry formulations that include latex in their composition. They are distinguished by increased elasticity (they are easy to use) and water resistance (a guarantee of long-term operation of the structure). We breed the factory composition according to the recommendations of its manufacturer. We apply plaster with a layer of 2.3–2.5 cm.

After that, we are engaged in the waterproofing of the bowl. It is carried out in different ways. The most reliable of them is considered to be an option that involves applying several layers of coating waterproofing to the internal parts of the reservoir, which are then further processed with a latex adhesive mixture or a special cement-sand mortar. The latter is easy to do:

mix 3 hours of sand with 1 hour of M400 cement;
add 1 part of ceresite emulsion to 10 parts of water;
mix all the above ingredients.

We must obtain a composition with a thick consistency and immediately apply it to the surfaces to be treated, and then carefully rub it with a grater.

A simpler option to protect the pool from moisture is to lay a PVC film of a suitable size. She needs to cover the entire bowl and secure with a latex adhesive composition. The technique is simple, fast to implement, but, unfortunately, very unreliable. The tape can break at any time. It will have to be changed regularly, spending your energy and money on unnecessary work.

Pool cladding - let's come up with a design

We proceed to the most exciting stage of work - finishing the finished stationary bowl. This procedure is usually performed with:

mosaics;
porcelain tiles;
thick polyvinyl chloride film (PVC).

These materials have their operational and purely decorative pros and cons. The most widespread is the process of finishing home-made pools with glass mosaic products. They are small in size (10x10–50x50 mm), which allows you to create whole pictures and chic panels from them, not to mention original, but simple drawings and patterns.

Mosaic is a durable, mechanically resistant material with minimal porosity. It can be laid on not very flat surfaces. And the process of mounting the mosaic causes real delight among lovers of beauty, because they have the opportunity to create any ornament with their own hands. The price of products cast from high-strength glass varies between 25-150 dollars per square.

Instead of mosaics, many people use porcelain tiles for cladding pools. It costs about $ 30, is characterized by a low rate of moisture absorption, excellent strength, high heat and frost resistance. It is advisable to buy porcelain products with a rough surface. The likelihood of slipping on them is minimal.

It is forbidden to use ordinary ceramic tiles for decorating pools. It is not resistant to heat and moisture and is an ideal breeding ground for microorganisms.

If the budget for the construction of the pool is small, it can be finished with a four-layer PVC film. Its thickness is 1.5 mm. Separate layers of such products are laid with a special synthetic mesh. Films for artificial reservoirs in baths and saunas do not contribute to the formation of bacteria, have a rough surface, and have a unique resistance to chemical compounds. The cost of such material is acceptable - 10-15 dollars. And if desired, it is easy to find products of higher quality (their price reaches 40–45 dollars per square).

Care of the pond in the steam room - we will extend its life

The pool should be filled with soft water. If a liquid of not the best quality flows from the water supply, you will have to purchase special compounds to bring it to the recommended standards (pH - 7.2–7.6). These include:

Chlorine start;
Shock-chlorine;
granular coagulant;
tablets for quick water purification.

Some people are allergic to chlorine-containing substances. They can be advised to buy products containing bromine. It does not irritate the skin and mucous membranes. True, bromine-containing solutions are a little more expensive. Means in the form of tablets, which include active oxygen molecules and additional additives, are used to eliminate microorganisms in water. They act almost instantly.

Once every 3-4 months, you need to completely drain the water from the bowl and thoroughly clean it from limescale and dirt. The easiest way to do this is with Anticalcite- a composition that removes even strongly stubborn dirt and deposits.

It is also recommended to spend money on installing filters. You can mount different devices - diatomaceous, cartridge, sand. Which one to choose? If finances allow, we buy diatom filtration devices. They are the highest quality and most reliable, capable of retaining polluting particles of less than three microns. Cartridge ones are cheaper, but they only filter particles of at least 10 microns. Sand are used exclusively in pools that are small in size and depth. They simply cannot cope with the purification of large volumes of water.