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Caring for garden strawberries (strawberries) in July - August. Care calendar for strawberries - strawberries Care for strawberries in June

STRAWBERRY CARE IN JUNE Strawberries bloom in the first half of June. At this time, there are quite often frosts that damage strawberries, especially those growing in the lowlands. Usually the first flowers that produce the largest berries suffer. The degree of damage depends on how amicably and when strawberries of one or another variety bloom. Losses of berries from frost are usually compensated for by more uniform pouring of late berries. Due to its precocity, strawberries at this time are demanding on watering. In normal weather in June, strawberries need to be watered twice - during flowering and during the pouring of berries. At the same time, the irrigation rate of water should not be given at once, but evenly in several doses, then the water will not spread over the entire surface of the bed. Water should not be colder than 15 ° C, i.e. plants cannot be watered directly from artesian wells. When watering, the root layer should be moistened to a depth of 25-30 cm. Excellent results in terms of quality and uniformity of moisture are provided by drip irrigation. Remember 2 basic commandments when watering strawberries in June and July. Extremely harmful are frequent surface waterings, which do not moisten the soil, but only create increased humidity in the surface air layer and cause the spread of fungal diseases. Watering should be done only in the morning, so that by the evening the plant has time to dry, because night dampness contributes to the appearance of gray rot. During the formation of the ovary, measures are taken to protect the berries from contact with the soil - for this, rye straw, needles, boards, sawdust, mulch paper, slats, film or other material are laid out under strawberry bushes. This is done not for the sake of obtaining clean berries, but to protect them from gray rot. The first wave of whiskers in strawberries appears in June during flowering and ovary growth, especially in young plants. This is the most valuable mustache for the formation of the earliest, most healthy seedlings, which you will plant in a permanent place in the garden in late July - early August. Most amateur gardeners do not have special strawberry queen cells, but harvest seedlings right on the fruit-bearing bed. The strongest seedlings grow in the second year of plant life. Therefore, it is from these beds that seedlings must be obtained, after removing unhealthy and uncharacteristic specimens for this variety. All weak and thin whiskers, which are easy to distinguish from full-fledged ones, must be removed, and thick whiskers should be left to form a rosette with two or three leaves. The development of mother plants can be accelerated by removing all flower stalks that have appeared. Then, in a place free for rooting seedlings in the garden, the soil is loosened and a socket is added dropwise along with the socket part of the mustache. In this case, in no case should the leaves be covered with earth. To grow a strong and well-bearing bush, it is necessary to root only the first outlet from the mother bush, and it is better to remove the growing mustache with the second outlet. The second outlet is left only if there are few young mother plants. Seedlings buried in this way do not deplete the mother bush. In addition, it grows 4-5 weeks earlier than rooted on its own. The buried seedlings are watered with water until they are completely rooted and separated from the mother bush when transplanted to a permanent place. With insufficient moisture and high soil density, the seedlings obtained in this way take root poorly and are often not ready for transplanting even by mid-August. It is not advisable to leave it on the site until spring, because it weakens the mother plant. In this case, the seedlings must be grown in special nurseries. For a nursery, you need a bed with an area of ​​​​only 1-2 square meters, but with very loose and well-fertilized soil, located in a sunny place with little shading on the south side. This bed is abundantly mulched from above with humus or peat chips. Rosettes are taken as planting material when they form only 2 leaves and a spine 1-1.5 cm long. Rosettes are planted at a distance of 8-10 cm from one another in several rows. After watering, the bed is shaded. In the first week, shading during the day and watering in the evening are required. High rooting of rosettes is obtained by covering nurseries with a film stretched over low wire arcs. On hot days, the film on the sunny side must be lifted. The extension of the third leaf at the seedling indicates the independent development of the root system. At this time, it is necessary to feed it with ash, and after 3-4 days - with nitrophoska. After 20-25 days, strong seedlings grow with a developed root system and 4-5 leaves on short thick petioles and a well-developed growth bud. If necessary, the plants in the nursery can remain until spring. It was recommended above to use only the first sockets for propagation. This is justified for gardeners who want to get the maximum yield in the first year and provide themselves with seedlings. Plants grown from rosettes of the second and especially the third order bear less fruit in the first year, but you get a lot of seedlings. And after a year, both those and other plants are practically leveled. Early seedlings can also be obtained by early forcing plants under a film. But for this it is necessary to use plants only the first year of fruiting. If you do not need seedlings, then the mustache must be removed without waiting for the rooting of the outlets. This must be done 3-4 times during the summer. On young plantings, the mustache is cut with secateurs so as not to damage the plants. On well-rooted plants, the mustache can be cut off by hand without fear of damaging the bushes, which greatly facilitates the work. In June, strawberry care continues under film cover - it is necessary to ventilate, remove weeds, and monitor soil moisture. The first sockets under cover are usually used for growing early seedlings, the remaining whiskers are systematically removed. In the second half of June, an early harvest begins to be harvested from plants under cover. At this time, it is better to remove the film from the beds. In the third decade, the harvest of berries begins to ripen. At this time, the soil should not be loosened so as not to damage the flower stalks and not to pollute the berries. And it was at this time that slugs appeared on the strawberry beds. They can be repelled without the use of various chemicals, if the bed and especially the paths are abundantly sprinkled with sand, along which they cannot move. And if you lay out still moistened pieces of plywood, rags, then the slugs will hide under them after a night hunt, and in the daytime they only need to be collected and destroyed. D. Chernyaeva

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Caring for strawberries during flowering and fruit ripening is one of the most important activities in May and June. Berry lovers are well aware that the health and productivity of strawberries depends on the correct implementation of all procedures. We offer you to learn how to care for strawberries during flowering, fruiting, in order to collect a large crop of large and sweet berries.

Caring for strawberries during flowering and fruit ripening is one of the most important activities in May and June

Care for strawberries during flowering I

Strawberries love care and not only the quantity of the crop, but also the taste of the berries depends on its quality. During the budding period, the plant especially needs top dressing, watering, protection from pests and diseases. Flowering of early varieties of strawberries occurs in May. Medium and late varieties bloom in early June. During this period, the gardener is expected to perform the following strawberry care activities, namely:

  1. loosening. Strawberries bloom and bear fruit well if its roots receive enough oxygen and solar heat. Regular loosening of the soil helps to remove weeds from the garden in a timely manner and prevents the formation of a dense crust around the bushes. After watering loosen the ground the next day. Through well loosened soil, the roots receive more nutrients and moisture.
  2. Watering. According to gardeners, improper watering is a common cause of the development of fungal diseases and the formation of small berries. During the flowering of strawberries, watering is carried out in the morning by the drip method, and not by irrigating the bushes. It is strictly forbidden to use cool water, otherwise the fungi attack the plantings. If it rains during flowering, do not water or reduce it. It is enough to water strawberries under the root 1 time in 4-5 days, then the earth is mulched with straw.
  3. top dressing. During flowering, a single application of fertilizers is sufficient. The introduction of complex mineral and organic fertilizers leads to good results. The ashes of fruit trees contain a large number of trace elements. Ash enough to sprinkle the ground around each bush. An infusion of fermented chicken manure or mullein will provide strawberry bushes with organic matter. As a foliar top dressing, it is recommended to use irrigation of bushes with boric acid. Boron strengthens the plant, increases.
  4. Removing whiskers and leaves. Excess mustache, dry or wilted leaves create a shadow, take moisture from the plant. Strawberries during the flowering period need juice with nutrients for full fruiting. Gardeners recommend removing mustaches and dry leaves using a pruner. You can improve the quality of the crop if, immediately after flowering, the mustache is completely or partially removed.
  5. artificial pollination. In cold and rainy summers, strawberry flowers may not be pollinated enough, as the bees, for natural reasons, do not do their job in bad weather. With poor-quality pollination of flowers, the berries are formed deformed and small. To pollinate strawberries, you can use a soft brush or ear stick, which is gently passed over the flowers in the heat of the day.
  6. Pruning peduncles. The first flower stalks are usually smaller than the next ones. To make the berries larger, it is worth trimming small flower stalks.
  7. Preventive treatment- an extreme measure, which is resorted to only in case of urgent need. Gardeners are advised to spray the bushes before or after flowering. But if it arose, the use of the Aktofit preparation, which does not harm the bees, will help solve the problem. If signs of damage appear on strawberry leaves or peduncles, it is recommended to spray the bush with Fitosporin solution.

Caring for strawberries during fruiting I

Strawberries love care and not only the quantity of the crop, but also the taste of the berries depends on its quality.

During fruiting, the strawberry bush needs especially careful care. What agrotechnical measures should be carried out in order to harvest a good harvest of berries? We suggest using the advice of experienced summer residents, namely:

  • the number of waterings during fruiting is reduced. It is enough to moisten the soil under the bush 1 time in 3-5 days (depending on weather conditions). It is strictly forbidden to irrigate strawberries by spraying. It is worth giving preference to drip irrigation. After moistening, the ground around the bush is mulched with hay and straw so that the ripening berries remain clean;
  • for mineral substances, 1 handful of wood ash is poured under each bush;
  • fermented mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:15 is poured under a bush of 1 liter;
  • fermented infusion of chicken manure in a ratio of 1:30 is poured under the root of 1 liter;
  • aisles are recommended to be fertilized with manure.

Care for strawberries during flowering, video

Caring for strawberries during fruiting O

Organizing proper care for strawberries during flowering and fruiting is a task for gardeners who want to get a generous harvest of berries. According to summer residents, carrying out all activities for the care of strawberry plantations does not take much time. It is only important to perform all the procedures regularly, then the bushes will grow strong, and the berries will be fragrant and sweet.

The end of July - the beginning of August is the best time to take care of the harvest of garden strawberries (strawberries) next year. It is at this time that the plant stores the nutrients that will be needed for the formation of berries in the next season. It is at the end of July that new leaves begin to grow, flower buds are laid and a huge number of mustaches grow. And right now, the garden strawberry garden needs attention. What action does she expect from our side?

First, you need to thoroughly weed.

The next step is to dig pots with rosettes planted a month ago to organize another bed of garden strawberries.

You can read about the reproduction of garden strawberries with a mustache here.


It can be seen that in 4 weeks the root system of new plants has developed perfectly, and now they can be painlessly separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place. From such bushes you can expect a good return next year.


Despite the fact that periodically we removed the growing mustache, some were so stubborn that they were able to take root well and grow. I also take them for divorce and landing. However, the berries on them will most likely not be next year, but in two winters.


Then all remaining whiskers are removed and old leaves are cut off. There should not be any plant residues in the garden; pathogens can also overwinter with them.


Please note: if you see deformed new leaves, this indicates a tick lesion. You need to apply one of the acaricides and spray the plants.


Now the soil needs to be loosened. In the immediate vicinity of the outlet, this should not be done deep - the root system of garden strawberries (which is often called strawberries) is superficial.


When fruiting, the plant consumes a large supply of nutrients, they need to be replenished right now, in July. This culture is considered one of the most demanding in terms of nutrition. It is necessary to feed strawberries with complex fertilizer at the rate of 20-30 mg per 1 square meter. There are special mixtures for strawberries, and you can also use ammophos. An excellent result is obtained by the use of humus and compost, which, in addition to top dressing, also improve the structure of the soil.


If you use mineral fertilizer, then abundant watering is required after top dressing.

Until the end of the season, strawberries need regular watering - not often, but plentifully. Periodically, weeds and growing mustaches must be removed so that the plant does not expend its strength on unnecessary things.

Growing your own berries is a rather time-consuming process. However, with proper care in July-August, garden strawberries will be well prepared for wintering, and lay a sufficient number of flower buds for abundant fruiting next year.