How to deal with red beetles on lilies. How to protect lilies from diseases and pests, treatment methods Who eats lily leaves in the garden

Lilies have a lot of pests - about 15 species. But the most dangerous - seven.

spider mite

A well-known pest that feeds on the juice of young shoots. Forms huge colonies and can "suck" the plant to death. The first signs of infection - the leaves begin to curl. If you look at them closer, you can see small red dots - these are ticks.

Control measures. Treat the plants with any acaricide, such as Actellik or Fitoverm. The main thing is to do it as early as possible, while there are few pests.

Pisk beetle (bulbous ratchet)

Incredibly beautiful beetle, but very harmful. Females lay pink larvae on the leaves, which eat the leaves clean. You won't have to look for them for a long time - they are clearly visible.

Control measures. Treat the plants with Karbofos, Inta-Vir or Decis according to the instructions.

lily fly

This pest lays eggs in lily buds, from which a larva hatches there. She eats the pistils and stamens of the flowers. When the flowers open, they look ugly and rot very quickly.

Control measures. It is almost impossible to completely get rid of this fly, but its number can be significantly reduced. To do this, it is necessary to treat the plants with Karbofos or Ditoks three times a season. Affected buds must be cut off and burned.

Medvedka

This "beast" eats roots, bulbs and shoots of lilies. You can detect the pest by numerous holes in the soil.

Control measures. The easiest way is to add Grizzly, Medvetoks or Grom preparations to the soil according to the instructions.

Another option is to arrange traps for the bear. For example, dig small holes and fill them with manure. Or lay out small pieces of slate in the flower garden - pests like to hide in such places. From time to time, traps should be checked and insects destroyed.

Khrushch (May beetle larva)

It harms just like a bear - it eats up roots and bulbs, as a result of which the lilies die. You can find them only by digging up the soil.

Control measures. The same drugs as against the bear - "Grizzly", "Medvetoks", "Thunder". Or you can simply dig up the soil before planting the bulbs and select them manually.

Onion hoverfly

If at the end of spring - beginning of summer, while caring for lilies, you heard a quiet murmur, look around. Do you see small black flies hovering over the flower bed? Know that your flowers are in danger. These are onion hoverflies, and they have most likely already laid their eggs in the soil. Soon the larvae will appear, which will bite into the bulbs with exorbitant appetite and turn their insides into a putrefactive mass.

Control measures. Before planting the bulbs, powder with Bazudin. During the mass summer of the fly, treat the plants with Karbofos or Inta-Vir. And in the fall, it is imperative to dig up the soil and mulch the lilies with peat.

Wireworm (larvae of the click beetle)

This typical potato pest also eats lily bulbs with pleasure. As a result, the bulbs rot and the plants die.

Control measures. There are especially many wireworms on acidic soils, so lime or wood ash must be added to such areas before planting lilies. Once every 2 weeks, it is useful to water the plants with potassium permanganate (3-5 g per 10 liters of water). Of the drugs, Provotoks, Medvetoks, Vallar and Repair help well.

Before you buy a lily for your site, consider each of its bulbs. After all, being tempted by the label, you can buy an unhealthy plant. The lily bulb should be resilient and hard enough. It shouldn't have mold. The roots of a healthy specimen are at least five centimeters long. But, in addition to plant diseases, lily pests also lie in wait for novice lovers. They will be discussed in this article, as well as how and with what to fight them. Lily pests exceed a dozen species in their numbers. These include greenhouse and lily aphids, thrips, bulbous rattle, hoverfly, bulbous leaf beetle and other harmful insects.

Lily pests: red beetle

The most dangerous and common enemy of the lily is visible on the plant with the naked eye. Approaching the flower, you can easily see how it sits on the leaves and eats them.

It is called the first when the ailments of the lily (pests) are listed. Red lily beetle, aka bulbous rattle or peep beetle. Sometimes people call him a "fireman" - the red color is to blame. But he got the nickname "ratchet" due to the fact that if you press it, the insect is able to make characteristic sounds. Of particular danger are the voracious larvae of this beetle. They have a pink color, and the surface of the body is covered with lumps of green-brown mucus. Such pests of lilies (red beetle and its larvae) eat leaves almost completely.

If enemies were found, then the question arises - how to treat lilies from pests? As soon as the larvae were found on the leaves, the flowers should be sprayed with an insecticide.

onion leaf beetle

What other pests can attack lilies? The red lily beetle in this regard passes the baton to the onion leaf beetle. This specimen is known for nibbling leaves around the edges, or creating oval-shaped holes in them. And its larvae completely leave one “skeleton” from the leaves. The adult beetle is orange in color and has an oval body. Its belly is black and its legs are red. The larvae are covered with slime, which has a blackish tint. These pests of lilies overwinter in the soil, come to the surface at the end of April and lay their eggs. The hatched larvae live for about twenty days, and then pupation occurs. In general, one generation is formed.

Lily pests and their control, although similar, have certain differences. In this case, in addition to treating plants with insecticides, it is necessary to regularly destroy weeds and collect beetles manually.

Aphid

This pest is very small and forms entire colonies on the leaves. It greatly weakens the plant, and also carries a large number of infections of viral origin.

In order for a beautiful and healthy lily to grow and bloom on your site, pests (beetles, aphids and others) must be mercilessly destroyed. In particular, aphids can be defeated with Karbofos, Fitoverm and other insecticides.

Onion mite root

This pest damages a lot. Its length is not even one millimeter. The tick feeds on the scales of the bulb, as a result of which it causes the latter to rot.

A lily affected by a tick stops its growth. Its leaves turn yellow and gradually wither. A weakened plant is exposed to various other diseases and eventually dies. The spread of the mite occurs through the soil along with the planting material or through the tillage tool.

Before treating lilies from pests, it is necessary to establish which of them struck the plant. When examining bulbs affected by a tick, one can find many passages and cavities in which a brown powder is located. Such bulbs should be removed after digging. All plant residues are carefully collected and destroyed. If the presence of this pest is suspected in the planting material, then all the bulbs must be kept in the Karbofos solution for fifteen minutes or sprinkled with chalk. Chalk adhering to the body of ticks leads them to death from desiccation. If the pest was identified during the growing season, then the lilies should be sprayed with a solution of Rogor, but it is better to destroy all diseased specimens. If your site has been infected, then bulbous plants cannot be grown on it for four years.

Lily pests. flies

Great damage to the bulbs is caused by the larvae of hover flies, which got their name for the ability to freeze in flight, while making a characteristic sound. In the bulbs, they eat through the passages up and down. From May to June, these lily pests lay their eggs in the soil. Here the voracious larvae appear, which wait out the winter in the bulbs of plants. As a result of this “settlement”, a weakened lily grows in the spring. The leaves of such a flower are ugly and have a yellow color.

The fight against them is to dig the soil in the fall. And you need to do this deep enough, wrapping the layer. You can prevent egg laying by mulching the ground with peat or dusting it with Bazudin. Garlic will also come to the rescue, which should simply be planted around the perimeter of the garden.

Medvedka

We have already considered many pests of lilies and their control. But this list cannot be bypassed. This insect is large in size, has a brown color.

Medvedka equips nests in the soil at a depth of about 10 cm. To better ventilate them, this pest destroys all plants around, gnawing the underground part of the stem. In the area where the bear lives, you can find a huge number of holes in the soil. They are especially visible after rain.

There are several ways to deal with this insect. The first is the destruction of nests. They are simply dug up, and the larvae and eggs are thrown upstairs, where they die. To be sure to destroy all the nests, you need to dig the site deep enough.

Another method is to set up traps. In the spring, sheets of slate or plywood are laid out on the beds. Under them, the bear climbs to warm up. It remains only to check the traps at regular intervals and exterminate the pest. And another way is to create manure pits in the fall. Recesses of half a meter are filled with manure, in which the bear settles for the winter. As soon as the cold sets in, the pits are cleaned and the contents are distributed over the site. As a result, the insects die.

Nematodes

These are small round worms. They live in the soil, and the development of individuals occurs inside the plant.

The fight against these worms consists in the disinfection of the soil, as well as in the extermination of the affected plants.

potato scoop

Lily pests such as scoops eat away the trunks of plants from the inside. As a result of such damage, the flower breaks or fades. The caterpillar also has a bright red line running along its back. The eggs of these caterpillars spend all winter time on wild cereals, and in summer they move to flowers and other cultivated plants. Pupation occurs in the soil next to damaged plants at a depth of five to fifteen centimeters.

To prevent the invasion of scoops on lilies, it is necessary to thoroughly clean your site from weeds, as well as from all kinds of plant residues. All this must be collected and destroyed.

thrips

You can fight these insects with the help of any kind. It can be, for example, Karbofos or Fitoverm. Begin to process plants with the advent of spring. Further processing is carried out every ten or twelve days.

All lily pests, photos and descriptions of which are presented in this article, are the most common and often found in garden plots. But this does not mean that our list is exhausted. In addition to the considered insects, there are others that infect these plants less often, and also carry various diseases of viral and non-viral origin. But this is not a reason to despair and refuse such beautiful flowers on your site. The main thing is to study the available information and take preventive and therapeutic measures in time. Then your daylily will look wonderful and delight your eyes with bright and healthy colors.

Piskun. It does not bite, is not poisonous, does not emit an unpleasant odor, and is safe for humans. In case of danger to his own life, he falls to the ground, tightens his paws. The red bug belongs to the leaf beetle family, feeds on the green part of plants, becomes a provocateur of fungal, bacterial infections.

Who eats lilies in the garden

Two types of pests live in our area - onion red beetles, lily or lily. Outwardly similar to each other, lead an identical lifestyle. The bright red color resembles the color of a fire truck, because of this he was called a fireman. In dangerous situations, the insect begins to make sounds similar to crackling. Due to this feature, they are called squeakers, crackers, ratchet.

Lily beetle of medium size - up to 1 cm in length. The body is elongated, most of it is occupied by the abdomen, the head is small, black, lowered downwards. Long twisted whiskers, 3 pairs of short, tenacious legs ending in claws. The chest is small. The body is covered with a strong shell. The wings are well developed, insects fly long distances in search of food. A photo of a pisk beetle is presented below.

On a note!
Larvae are caterpillars of different sizes, off-white, yellow with a dark head. They go through several stages of development, at the last stage they pupate. They live together with adults on infected lilies, hazel grouse, lilies of the valley.

Lifestyle, nutrition

The peep beetle is active in the warm season - from May to August. The mating season begins in late spring, larvae begin to appear in June, and by the end of August a new generation of young adults emerges. The lily beetle lives in numerous colonies, prefers lilies of different varieties. With a lack of food, it settles on hazel grouses, lilies of the valley, and weeds.

Active during the day, sits motionless on plants at night. The larvae live on the underside of the leaves, hiding from direct sunlight. Some species of birds feed on adult beetles. The main enemies for the larvae are earthen wasps. They lay eggs on the body of a living victim, after a few days the cubs appear, begin to eat it from the inside.

The red beetle has a good appetite. For a few days of living on the plant, the lily begins to wither, get sick, fade. If you do not respond to the problem in a timely manner, the flower dies. The red-backed onion beetle, in addition to lilies, feeds on potatoes, tobacco, onions, and hazel grouse.

The pest of lilies, the red beetle, lives for several seasons. With the onset of cold weather, young individuals burrow into the ground, tolerate frosty winters well, crawl out to the surface in spring, begin to mate, and lay eggs. By the end of August, they die, the young generation, pupae, remains to winter.

reproduction

The mating season begins in May. The female lays her eggs on the underside of lily leaves. Oval, orange, no larger than 1 mm. The incubation period lasts 20 days, then larvae appear - thick caterpillars. The cubs begin to actively feed, grow, pupate in a week, turn into sexually mature adults.

How to deal with red bugs on lilies

What to do if red beetles appear on the lilies depends on the number of pests, personal preferences of flower growers, and the size of the flower bed. Folk, chemical remedies will help save the plant from death.

How to process lilies from red beetles

With a large number of pests, experts recommend the use of insecticidal preparations with contact-intestinal action. You can use any, most often use:

Decis;
Inta-Vir;
Talstar;
Fufanon;
Kinmiks.

On a note!
The lily beetle is resistant to other poisons. The solution must be prepared immediately before use. Spray flowers in the evening or early in the morning in dry weather. Pests die in a day, protection remains valid for 20 days.

Physical Methods

The fight against red bugs is carried out throughout the warm season. Every week they inspect the plant, collect pests by hand. On large land plots, the procedure is complicated by the fact that, at the sight of danger, the pest falls to the ground, turns its back down, hides its bright back, and merges with the soil.

On a note!
The red-winged beetle prefers certain crops, searches for food by the strong aroma of flowers, finds them several kilometers away. After harvesting, the lilac rattle must be destroyed, or released away from the flower beds.

It is possible to get rid of the red beetle on lilies mechanically in a few weeks, but it is necessary to collect not only adults, but also larvae. Unpleasant creatures hide under the leaves.

Fight with folk remedies

The advantage of the method is safety, environmental friendliness. The principle of operation is based on repelling pests. Lily rattle beetle in its life is guided by the sense of smell. The sharp aroma of some plants clogs the spiracles, makes them fly away. Means with an irritating effect also help to fight the lily beetle. When it comes into contact with the skin of an insect, they cause an unpleasant burning sensation, and death in the esophagus.

How to spray lilies:

Spices. Mix in equal proportions red, black pepper, mustard, cumin, cinnamon. Pour in soapy water. Spray plants liberally, paying special attention to the underside of the leaves. Repeat the procedure every 3 days until the complete disappearance of pests.
Wood ash. Pests on lilies are red bugs, they are afraid of ash-based products. When it comes into contact with the skin, the paws cause irritation, make them run away from an unfavorable place. The ash is poured with soapy water, the lilies are sprayed, the soil is watered. Repeat the procedure in a week.
Sagebrush. The concentrated infusion is a natural insecticide. The product repels pests with a persistent smell, and if it gets inside, it kills larvae, adults. Use a fresh, dry potion. Fill with water, insist at least a day. Filter, add laundry soap. Spray lilies. The treatment is repeated every 3 days.

To achieve maximum results, it is recommended to use several methods of struggle at once - chemical, physical, folk. Do not forget to dig up the soil in the flower bed twice a year, periodically inspect the plants. Black bugs on lilies with red sides are also firefighters, but the harm from them is much less. Insects are collected, thrown away from the flower bed.

(Lilium) is a plant from the Liliaceae family. Lily is a perennial flower, it reproduces with the help of bulbs. This planting option is the simplest, due to this, the lily is even more popular, not to mention the fact that caring for it is quite simple, however, there are rules here too.

The lily was known in ancient times, but even then its beauty did not go unnoticed, this garden beauty has become a real decoration of any flower beds, thanks to its delightful flowers. Lily can have a variety of regions of origin, it can be native to Europe, Asia, the Caucasus, North America. In order for this flower to acclimatize well on the site, you need to know which variety of lily, brought from which country, prefers which conditions.

In nature, there are a large number of lily diseases, and we will consider only the most common of them:

In the event that the soil on which the lilies are planted is not suitable for the plant, it is highly alkaline, then the flower is likely to develop chlorosis. Chlorosis is the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves of a lily. Such spots can be on lilies even at a time when it rains a lot, and a large number of trace elements are washed out of the soil. If you notice such spots on a flower, you need to treat the plant with copper sulfate, and continue this course of treatment until the lily acquires its healthy leaf color. Another option to combat chlorosis is to add peat to the soil to make it more acidic, and, in addition, the soil is fertilized with sawdust of pine needles and other species.
Another problem is considered cold weather, when lily flowers are exposed to frost, this is especially dangerous in the spring. The consequences of such hypothermia are sad, in the lily there is a detachment of the outer layer of cells on the leaves that have just appeared, as a result of which they thicken, bend and the appearance of bubbles on the surface of the leaves. Lilies that have undergone frostbite do not die, but they are not able to set buds in the next season. In order to protect the plant from such a fate, it is recommended to spud the flowers as high as possible so that frost does not damage them.

The first signs of the disease

If you notice developmental anomalies behind a lily, do not rush to the conclusion that this plant is sick. For lilies, there are typical deviations in development, which are observed only for one year, and then the flower grows completely normal. Such problems include the “sleeping bulb” - when the lily does not show any signs of life throughout the year. Flattened thickened stem - fusion of flower shoots, even with proper care, the plant in this case has a strange appearance.

If the lily grows very densely, or if it is not transplanted for several years in a row, then it may develop fungal diseases. Some of the most common are lily diseases such as:

Botris or gray rot - this disease harms the leaves, stems and buds of lilies, with poor watering or with great dampness and coolness, because the moisture on the flowers does not dry out before nightfall. Brown spots appear on the plant, which begin to grow and connect with each other. In addition, a large area with brown mucus is formed, which is covered with a gray coating on top. Lilies affected by botrys die in a few days, but if appropriate measures are taken to protect the flowers and treat it, you can save the lily, and next year a healthy flower will grow from its bulb. The fungus endures winter on the remains of plants, but if the lesion is severe, then in the bulbs.

How to deal with fungus:

if you are going to plant a lily in the ground, it is worth pickling it in a suspension of foundationol (0.5%), half an hour or an hour before planting;
it is recommended to transplant a lily every three to five years to another place;
do not plant flowers too close to each other;
watering the lily is carried out exclusively in the morning, and water must be poured to the very root.

If it happened that you had to plant a lily in an old place, it is recommended to replace part of the topsoil, and treat the earth with fungicides. In spring, it is advisable to carry out a preventive measure by spraying all the flowers with copper sulphate - 0.5%, boron liquid - 1%, or chlorooxy copper - 0.3%. If the fungus appeared on the flowers, then they need to be treated. Lilies are sprayed every ten days, while the preparations need to be changed. Those areas that are affected must be cut and burned. In heavy rains, lilies can be saved from death by building a canopy over the flowers.

Fusarium is a disease that attacks plants affected by mechanical means. Most often it manifests itself at a time when the bulbs are stored in a dry form. In the place where the scales are attached, spots with a yellow-brown tint begin to appear. These patches of rot grow, which contributes to the decay of the bulb. If you notice that the lower leaves of the plant have turned yellow and have begun to dry out, then it is infected with a fungus. Fusarium has a rapid spread in those conditions when the weather is hot and humid. This fungus can stay in the soil for up to three years.

Fight against fungus. In the event that the bulbs have not undergone any strong influence, then they are cleared of scales that have been infected. The plant must be treated with foundationazole - 0.22% and in less than an hour it can be planted in the ground. If the plant is severely affected, it is removed and burned. The soil for future flowers is disinfected with furalin, fundazol, euparen, bavistin, toxic drugs, therefore, they should be handled with care.

Rust - affects the leaves of lilies, their stems and bulbs. The spots that appear on the leaves grow rapidly and acquire a yellow, rusty color.

Rust control. The use of potassium-phosphorus dressings and the process of processing bulbs until planting. On those plants where the lesion is not strong, you need to remove the damaged parts.

Pests

In addition to fungi and other diseases, there are lily pests that cause no less severe damage to flowers and can lead to their death. We will describe only the most common forms of pests, such as:

Thrips - periodically found on the roots of lilies. Thrips is destroyed by baiting it with carbophosph. When picking up lily bulbs, you need to carefully look at them so as not to plant an unhealthy plant.
Root onion mite - damages the scales of the bulbs, which leads to the fact that the lilies die.
Lily fly larvae - are pests of the lily, they infect the buds of the plant. In order to prevent the appearance of a mask, the plant is sprayed with insecticides during the period when the plant is growing hard and throwing out buds.
Aphids and spider mites - they feed on the juice of this year's shoots and fresh leaves, which causes curling and drying. Insecticides are used against these pests.
Pisk beetles are considered especially dangerous pests for flowers. It is not the beetles themselves that eat the lilies, but their larvae. These beetles eat the leaves of the flower, and with them they can also carry the virus. With these pests you need to work with your own hands, because they are not afraid of chemicals.

Pest control and prevention

It is necessary to spray the flowers with the help of insecticidal preparations (Inta-Virom), cleansing the soil from weeds, and the correct agrotechnical policy.
Poisoned baits should be laid out.
It is necessary to cover plantings of lilies in time (more often in the first half of November).
If a lot of snow falls in winter, then the paths should be trampled after it.

When planning to buy a lily to decorate the garden, you need to be very careful, because these flowers are very susceptible to all sorts of lesions. Diseases and pests of lilies can be very diverse, and you need to know how to deal with them. In order to buy a good flower, you need to be able to choose its bulb correctly, from which a beautiful plant will grow in the future. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, check the strength of the bulb itself, it should not be sluggish or soft. Outwardly, the bulb must be completely clean, without mold, stains, blackening, which is why you should not buy flowers on the Internet or blindly, so it is impossible to see any visible signs of damage. Diseases and pests of a lily can spoil any flower, or they can completely destroy it, so it is important to be careful when choosing a bulb, when planting it in the ground, which also needs to be pre-treated when caring for a flower.

Those lilies that were properly cared for, where the necessary technologies were used, their risk of diseases is significantly reduced, the flowers have strong and healthy stems, they develop flowers well and the lily forms many buds that will bloom and delight with their beauty.

The graceful grace of lilies was appreciated by beauty lovers even before the beginning of our era. Since that time, it has become a constant decoration of flower arrangements and addition to festive outfits. Today, the lily also continues to arouse admiration and the absence of a blue tint in its color scheme is by no means considered a disadvantage. Like the rest of the bulbs, it is also loved for its simple planting method and undemanding care, while often forgetting about the features of agricultural technology of such flowers. Meanwhile, it is precisely the observance of the conditions for planting and caring for lilies that makes it possible to receive full-fledged healthy flowering from them.

The probability of survival of a lily in a garden plot and its resistance to diseases directly depends on the geographical origin of the plant (European, Caucasian, Asian or North American). It is obvious that non-hardy species from tropical regions (long-flowered, Japanese, Philippine) in the conditions of the northern climate will find it difficult to survive frosts, and even if they are sheltered for the winter, they will quickly die due to insufficient air humidity. In the southern conditions of the seaside hot climate, lilies of East Asian origin (Daurian, tiger and their hybrids) will develop poorly. The acidity of the soil for certain species is also associated with the origin of plants: slightly acidic soil is optimal for Asian species and hybrids, and slightly alkaline or neutral for European, Caucasian and North American. A lily planted in unsuitable agro-climatic conditions grows weak, is more often affected by pathogenic fungi and pests, gets sick longer and dies quickly.

On unsuitable strongly alkaline soils, lilies develop chlorosis: yellow spots appear on the leaves between the veins. This phenomenon can also be observed during the period of frequent rains, when most of the trace elements are washed out of the soil. With the manifestation of chlorosis, it is recommended to apply iron sulfate under the lilies until the healthy color of the plants is fully restored, or add peat and sawdust of conifers to the soil for acidification.

Defeat lilies spring frosts also looks like a manifestation of the disease: the outer layer of cells on young leaves exfoliates, they thicken, bend and become covered with bubbles. Frozen lilies do not die, but they do not form buds this year either. As a preventive measure against freezing, it is recommended to carry out high hilling of plants with earth in case of danger of return frosts.

Cases are not diseases dormant bulb” and “flattened thickened stem”. In the first case, a practically healthy bulb may not show signs of development for a whole year, and in the second case, with sufficiently good care, several shoots grow together in a lily and the plant looks unnatural. Such disorders, however, can be observed in lilies for only one year, in the future they usually develop.

In thickened plantings and with prolonged (more than 3-5 years) growing lilies in one place, the likelihood of damage increases. fungal diseases. The most famous of them are:

Botris (gray rot). The disease affects the leaves, stems and buds of lilies in damp cool weather and with improper watering, when the moisture on them does not have time to dry out before night. Brown spots appearing on the lower leaves grow rapidly and merge into large areas of brown mucous tissue covered with a gray bloom. The death of lily stems infected with botrys can occur in a matter of days, but timely protective measures allow you to save the bulbs and grow healthy plants from them next year. The fungus overwinters on the affected plant debris and, with severe damage, in the bulbs.

Ways to fight. For prevention, it is recommended:

– bulbs before planting 30 – 60 min. pickle in a suspension of foundationazole (0.5%) or TMTD (1%);
- change the landing site of lilies every 3 - 5 years;
- observe the sparsity of landings;
- watering to carry out under the root and only in the morning.

In the event of a forced landing in the same place, the topsoil is partially replaced or the land is treated with fungicides ("Oksihom", "Khom"). In early spring, seedlings are sprayed with preventive spraying of lilies with solutions of copper sulphate (0.5%), Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%). If a disease is detected, spraying is carried out every 10 days, alternating preparations, the affected parts of the plants are removed from the site and burned. During the rainy period, the mass death of flowers can be prevented by building a protective film canopy over the lilies.

Fusarium. The disease affects lily bulbs in places of mechanical damage and most noticeably manifests itself during their storage: yellow-brown spots form at the attachment points of the scales, soft rot areas grow and the bulb disintegrates. Outwardly, the beginning of the defeat of the lily by Fusarium can be determined by the yellowing and drying of the lower leaves on the stems. Active spread of the disease is observed in damp hot weather. The spores of the fungus remain in the soil for about 3 years.

Ways to fight. Weakly affected bulbs are freed from the affected scales, pickled with foundationazole (0.2%) for 30-40 minutes. and landed in a new place, severely affected - removed from the site and destroyed. The soil before planting (for 2-3 weeks) is disinfected with formalin (250 ml of a 40% solution is used per 10 liters of water to treat 1 cubic meter of land). Soil treatment and early spring spraying with foundationazole (0.1%), euparen (0.2%), bavistine (0.05%) is carried out with precautions, since the drugs are toxic.

Rust. The disease affects the leaves, stems and bulbs of lilies, in which spores of the fungus can overwinter. Small colorless spots appearing on the leaves gradually grow and turn yellow - fungus spores form in them. Leaves and stems dry up, but dark brown growths remain on them, from which spores are released in spring and infect new plants.

Ways to fight. For the purposes of prevention, frequent potassium-phosphorus top dressing of lilies and pre-planting treatment of bulbs are recommended. On weakly infected plants, the affected parts should be removed and destroyed; in case of severe damage, the lilies are removed from the site along with the bulbs. Early in the spring, preventive spraying is carried out on seedlings (Bordeaux liquid, copper chlorine), and if signs of the disease are found, ditan M-45 (1%), polycarbacin (0.3%), cineb (0.5%) with adhesive.

sclerocial rot. The first sign of the manifestation of the disease is the uneven shoots of lilies in the spring. When checking bulbs that are lagging behind in growth, a thick white felt coating can be found at the neck or on the bottom. In the future, the disease leads to the defeat and death of the roots and emerging leaves. Favorable for the fungus are conditions of high humidity at temperatures up to 13 ° C. With an increase in temperature, the active spread of the disease stops.

Ways to fight. Similar to the methods of dealing with botrys and fusarium: compliance with the recommended planting density, pre-plant dressing of bulbs and disinfection of the soil before planting. Sick plants along with the soil should be removed, the foci of infection should be covered with ash or bleach. It is not recommended to plant lilies after bulbous ones, which are also prone to sclerocial rot (daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli).

root rot. The disease affects the roots of the bulbs, they are covered with small brown spots. Plants lag behind in growth, lose buds. The onset of the disease can be identified by yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which gradually leads to the drying of the entire stem.

Ways to fight:

– careful selection of planting material;
- mandatory disinfection of the soil with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%) and dressing of bulbs (Fundazol, TMTD) before planting;
- removal of the affected parts of plants from the site and their destruction.

Bacterial (soft) rot. It affects plants from early spring: oval brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow and cause rotting and abscission of leaves and peduncles. During storage, rotting depressed spots with an unpleasant odor are found on the bulbs.

Ways to fight:

– inspection and destruction of infected planting material during storage;
– pre-planting treatment of bulbs and soil;
- preventive spraying in early spring, and if a disease is detected, spraying with fungicides every 10 days.

Carrying out preventive measures (disinfection of the storage, selection and processing of planting material, reduction of soil moisture, change of site, thinning of plantings), one can successfully deal with fungal diseases, which cannot be said about viral diseases. Unfortunately, viral diseases are difficult to diagnose and practically untreatable. They are spread by pests and sap through undisinfected garden tools. Viral diseases manifest themselves in different ways: the color and shape of the flowers change, the leaves curl, the stems are bent, the plants look oppressed and their decorative qualities deteriorate. Lilies affected by viruses are dug up with bulbs as soon as possible and destroyed outside the site, otherwise the spread of the disease can lead to the loss of all specimens. The most common viral diseases are:

variegation virus. The disease can be transmitted from tulips. A sign of damage is a spotty color of flowers that is not characteristic of the variety. The disease is carried by aphids and with garden tools.

rosette disease. Caused by a complex of viruses. In the affected lily, the growth of the flowering shoot is sharply delayed, the stem is flattened and deformed, the leaves are formed curved and chlorotic, the plant gradually withers and stops growing. Carrier - aphid.

Mosaic. Signs of the disease are often confused with the symptoms of botrys: pale gray oblong stripes and spots appear on the leaves. An infected lily may bloom for several years and produce healthy, virus-free seeds, but over time it will still die. The disease is tolerated by aphids and with garden tools.

Ways to fight. In order to prevent against viral diseases, lilies should be regularly inspected and specimens with suspicious changes in the color of flowers or leaves should be removed. For cutting, it is recommended to use a set of blades (one blade per inflorescence), which is disinfected immediately after cutting in boiling water or alcohol. To control disease vectors (aphids), lilies should be periodically sprayed with karbofos (0.3%) or ragor (0.2%).