Aphids on indoor flowers: why do they appear and how to get rid of them? What does an aphid look like: photo, description and reasons for the appearance of a pest of cultivated plants A message about aphids

Aphids settle on plants and begin to suck the juices out of them, forming necrotic areas.

One - a single individual will not cause serious harm, but the problem is that small pests multiply quickly and form numerous colonies. In this regard, various measures need to be taken.

The larger the aphid population, the more plants will die due to their activity. Some species even classified as quarantine pests, for example, grape phylloxera. You can see what different types of aphids look like in the photos posted in our article.

Other varieties produce galls and other plant developmental pathologies.

Peach

There are two known subspecies - the large peach aphid and the greenhouse (also known as tobacco and green) aphid.

Big

The founder has a rounded body of a brownish-gray color, up to 5 mm long. The head is black with short antennae. There are two tubercles on the abdomen and chest. The male is the same color, but smaller in size. Wings missing.

The winged virgin is distinguished by its shorter body length - up to 4.5 mm, the color of the head and chest is black, the back and abdomen are gray and brown. The wingless virgin has a gray pear-shaped body, covered, like its head, with black spots. The legs are bright - yellow and orange.

The eggs are initially orange in color. which gradually darkens and turns brown. After a few days it darkens, the eggs turn black.

Steppe regions and Crimea.
Prefers fruit and nut trees - cherry plum, peach, almond, apricot, plum.
Features of development and life cycle. They have a monoecious development cycle. Large clusters of eggs are sent to winter, located on the inside of large branches and under the bark of the trunk. In April, the larvae appear and begin to actively feed, going through the development cycle to an adult within a month.
From the founder, 50-80 larvae appear, from wingless virgins, on average - 30. The third and subsequent generations reproduce very intensively. Winged virgins appear in mid-summer and begin to actively fly to other trees, forming new colonies.
If no action is taken, by August aphid populations will completely cover all the trees in the garden, settling on the inside of leaves and branches. During the season, 8-10 generations of the pest are formed. Males are born in the fall and fertilize females to produce overwintering eggs.
What harm does it cause? By sucking juices from trees, aphids cannot completely destroy the plant. However, its activity weakens the tree’s defenses, which leads to the development of various viral diseases.
In addition, it gives way to sooty fungi that settle on the sweet secretions of aphids. Externally, a fungal invasion appears as black wet spots.

Green or tobacco peach

The founder has an oval torso, greenish-yellow in color, sometimes with a pink tint. It reaches no more than 2.5 mm in length.

The wingless virgin is smaller in size, the body is colored pink, green-yellow or light green. The eyes are red, the antennae are light and short.. The average length is 1.5 - 2 mm.

The winged virgin differs from the wingless one; the main color of the body is yellow-green, the head and chest are black. The wings are colorless and transparent.

The eggs are elongated and elliptical in shape. The color is black with a metallic sheen.

Geographical distribution. North America, Asia (especially Japan, China and India), Eastern and Western Europe, Southern Urals.
On what plants is it found? A very indiscriminate species that lives on peaches, cherry plums, plums, tobacco, cabbage, cucumbers, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, radishes, dill and parsley, lettuce and many other plants, including greenhouse crops and medicinal herbs.
Features of development. Development is fully cyclical or incompletely cyclical (during life in greenhouses). Foundress larvae emerge from overwintered eggs in March - April. The air temperature should be at least 20°. They begin to feed on the kidneys. Development to a sexually mature individual from 18 to 28 days. The founder gives about 30-60 eggs of offspring. The maximum increase in population is observed in mid-summer. Up to 12 generations can develop during a season. The eggs spend the winter at the base of the buds.
What harm does it cause? The most significant damage is observed on young shoots and various vegetable crops, as well as tobacco. Leaves curl, wrinkle, and dry areas appear. It is very harmful to flowers, which as a result dry out and fall off.

Potato large

The wingless virgin has an oval body, pointed at the back. It is colored red or green. Length no more than 4 mm. The antennae and tail are long and match the color of the body.

The winged virgin is small, up to 3.5 mm long. The body is light green, the legs and antennae are chestnut.

Geographical distribution. Almost everywhere. Originally appeared in North America.
On what plants is it found? As a polyphage, it is omnivorous, but prefers potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, beets, as well as greenhouse and indoor plants.
Features of development. Incomplete development cycle. Reproduction is only parthenogenetic.
In spring, wingless individuals appear and settle on the inner side of leaf blades of forage crops. Overwintering occurs on weeds and in the soil or in warm rooms.
During the season there is a constant change of wingless and winged generations. All other forms are missing.
What harm does it cause? This type of aphid can spread about 50 types of viral diseases.

Apple green

The egg is light greenish, gradually darkens until it becomes black. The founder has an oval torso with a sharp rear tip. It is colored green, the head is reddish or chestnut.

The wingless virgin is very similar to the founder. Smaller winged virgin, has a green belly. The paws, tail, chest and head are black.

The amphigonic female does not have wings; the body is yellow with a brown or green tint. The tail and ends of the antennae are black. The male differs from the amphigonic female only in its smaller size.

Read about the fight against aphids with folk remedies.

Rose green

All forms and stages of development are not very different from each other. Any individual has an ellipsoidal green body, brown long antennae, sword-shaped elongated tail.

Geographical distribution. Lives almost everywhere.
On what plants is it found? In addition to roses and rose hips, aphids can settle on strawberries, pears and apple trees.
Features of development. It goes through a full cycle. Overwinters on branches in the egg stage. Foundresses produce an average of about 80 eggs each. It reproduces in greenhouses and conservatories all year round.
What harm does it cause? The growth of bushes is inhibited, the leaves curl, the buds do not open, weakened plants do not tolerate winter cold and virus attacks.

Leaf gall

Wingless females have an oval body, colored yellow or pale green. The antennae are long and dark. Winged females are much smaller and have a pair of transparent wings. The body is brownish-brown.

Geographical distribution. Everywhere.
On what plants is it found? White, red and black currants.
Features of development. Full cycle.
What harm does it cause? By sucking the juices from the leaves, it forms galls on them - swellings of burgundy or yellow color. Young bushes are damaged the most; the population can destroy the plant.

To protect plants, you can use aphid control.

Beet or bean

Egg - black, elliptical. The founder and the wingless virgin have an oval body, widened at the sides.

It is colored brown, black or green, covered with a wax-like coating. Winged individuals have a black head, antennae and chest, and a lighter belly.

Geographical distribution. Europe, North America, Central Asia and Transcaucasia.
On what plants is it found? Prefers beets, jasmine, euonymus, beans, poppy, viburnum, spring vetch, sunflower and potatoes.
Features of development. Alternation of generations throughout the growing season of food plants, the last generation mates and lays wintering eggs.
What harm does it cause? The leaves wrinkle and curl, the plant is stunted in growth and may die. Carries various viral diseases.

Cucumber (melon)

The elongated body with a sharp rear tip is colored in different shades of green. Antennae and paws are black.

Melon aphid photo.

Geographical distribution. Everywhere.
On what plants is it found? Melons, cucumbers, beets, cotton, tobacco, peanuts, sesame, citrus fruits, eucalyptus.
Features of development. Parthenogenetic reproduction, development is incompletely cyclical. Several generations of asexual virgins change over the course of a season. Fertility - 40-50 individuals per female.
Harm caused. This variety is one of the most harmful. Causes great damage to plants due to high fertility.

Cabbage

It has a broad oval pale green body and short dark antennae.

Cabbage aphid photo.

Geographical distribution. In almost all countries, in Russia it is absent in subtropical regions.
On what plants is it found? It lives mainly on cruciferous vegetables, especially likes radishes and cabbage.
Development. In warm climates, development is incomplete, in other areas - a full cycle. During the season, from 6 to 30 generations appear.
What harm does it cause? Reproducing en masse, it adheres to the entire plant, which leads to death.

Grape phylloxera

The body is oval, yellow or brown in color. The antennae and proboscis are very short.

Geographical distribution. Viticulture areas in Europe, North America, Africa and Asia.
On what plants is it found? Lives only on all types of grapes. The leaf form does not settle on pubescent varieties.
Development. Root and leaf forms go through a full cycle. One leafy female can produce up to 500 eggs. Up to 9 generations change per season.
What harm does it cause? Phylloxera is a quarantine pest. Galls appear on the roots and deformation appears on the leaves. The population is capable of completely destroying the vineyard.

Carrot

The elongated oval body is pale green in color, the antennae are short and light, as are the paws.

Geographical distribution. Everywhere.
On what plants is it found? On carrots and other umbrella plants.
Development. Full life cycle.
What harm does it cause? The leaves curl, the nutrition of root crops deteriorates, so the quality and quantity of the harvest suffers.

Poplar (poplar) white

Individuals have an oval body of white or yellow color. Winged females are only white.

Geographical distribution. Central Asia, Western Europe, Iran, Western Siberia.
On what plants is it found? On black, pyramidal and other types of poplar.
Development. Full cycle.
Maliciousness. Drying of buds, curling of leaves, weakening of trees, especially young ones.

Hermes

The founder has a black shiny body. Subsequent generations are covered with white fluffy hairs.

Geographical distribution. Everywhere where there are coniferous trees.
On what plants is it found? Any conifers, especially spruce, pine, larch and cedar.
Development. Incomplete. 4-5 generations appear per season.
Maliciousness. They disrupt the development and fruiting of trees, weakening their protective abilities and reducing their decorative properties.

Mealy (hairy)

The wingless female has a pinkish-cream body and an oval shape. There are numerous bristles on the sides. The entire body is covered with a snow-white coating, reminiscent of flour.

The winged female differs from the wingless one only in the presence of wings.

Geographical location. Everywhere.
On what plants is it found? Prefers citrus fruits, grapes, most indoor and greenhouse plants.
Development. The female can lay up to 2 thousand eggs, from which larvae soon emerge. They are mobile and spread over all surrounding plants, sucking the juice from them. At home and in greenhouses, development and reproduction are continuous.
Maliciousness. Deformation of branches and stems, drying and falling of buds and leaves, inhibition of development, weakening of the protective qualities of plants.

Root

The body can be colored yellow, white or green, and is ovoid in shape. The head, antennae and chest are brown. The whole body is covered with a whitish-yellow coating, similar to wax.

Geographical location. Everywhere.
On what plants is it found? Almost everyone.
Development. Wingless females hibernate and hide in the soil. In the spring, larvae are born from them. They subsequently give birth to offspring. During the season, several generations and stages of development change.
Maliciousness. By sucking juices from adventitious lateral roots, the pest disrupts the normal supply of nutrients to the plant.

As a result, it is weakened and cannot fully develop. If measures are not taken, the food plant will die.

Home or room

Includes several subspecies that differ in color. There are white aphids, red aphids, and there are also green and black aphids.

Geographical location. Everywhere.
On what plants is it found? On almost all indoor flowers.
Development. Full cycle. Reproduction is parthenogenetic and amphigonic individuals mate periodically. They do not go to winter and develop all year round.
Maliciousness. Leaves, shoots and buds wither and dry out and fall off. Plants stop developing and gradually die.

Conclusion

Plant aphids - the concept includes all species of aphids currently known. This insect is classified as a herbivorous pest.

Certainly, it is impossible to describe all varieties of aphids in one article, because there are a huge number of them. However, we tried to collect all the most common types.

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Aphids are considered one of the most malicious and dangerous garden pests. This insect in all its varieties easily occupied green spaces: from garden crops and flowers to fruit trees, to which it causes enormous damage.

What are the armies of such numerous insects? What methods of solving the problem are most effective?

What are aphids?

Externally, these are small insects of black or green color, from one to five millimeters in size, with an ovoid body, soft and easily crushed, thin legs, elongated mouthparts, thickened in front. Aphids live on fruit trees, the undersides of leaves, stems, and tops of shoots; they mercilessly suck out plant juice with their proboscis. Along the way, the insect secretes a poison that causes leaves to curl, deform, die off, shoots to stop growing, and tops to bend. In addition, sweet masses contaminate the leaf surface, thereby disrupting the normal functioning of plants and causing their death.

The created conditions of increased sugar content are an optimal environment for the development of black sooty mildew - a dangerous viral disease that interferes with the process of photosynthesis and inhibits already weakened plants. Insects cause the greatest damage to fruit tree seedlings.

What are aphids and why do they reproduce so quickly? A wingless female aphid only needs one fertilization to then produce numerous offspring every two weeks for six months (which is about fifty generations during the summer season).

How to detect the presence of aphids on the site

Determining what an aphid is and recognizing its appearance is quite simple:

colonies of such an insect are visible to the naked eye - they are located on the shoots of the plant, on the underside of the leaves;
the affected parts of the plants are covered with honeydew - a sticky liquid secreted by aphids;
the leaves of the plant are curled and dry out, the flower buds do not open, and the fruits stop developing.

Troubleshooting

Fighting such a pest is extremely difficult, because insects multiply very quickly, creating numerous colonies. Aphids can be removed by hand or washed off with a powerful water jet from a hose. In the vicinity of garden crops that are susceptible to aphid attacks, it is recommended to plant onions and garlic that repel this pest.

Natural predators of aphids include ladybugs, some species of wasps, hoverflies, lacewings and small birds. To attract such rescuers, it is recommended to plant fragrant herbs, green manure and nettles on the site. Birds and insects may not be able to completely destroy pest colonies, but their help will not be superfluous.

Traditional methods

An effective remedy for aphids is herbal decoctions and infusions. They are not chemicals, however, in strong concentrations they can cause burns to the plant, and in addition to aphids, they pose a danger to other types of insects. Therefore, it is recommended to use them carefully, having first tested the effect on a limited area of land. Control of aphids on fruit trees with plant solutions is recommended during the budding period, after flowering and before harvesting, no later than 2-4 weeks.

Garlic infusion

To prepare it through a press, you need to pass five cloves of garlic, which you need to leave for 4-5 days in half a liter of water, then combine with 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil and a teaspoon of liquid soap. The resulting preparation should be sprayed on plants affected by aphids.

Chamomile infusion

Infuse 100 grams of dried chamomile inflorescences and leaves in 1 liter of water for 12 hours. Spraying is carried out in a ratio of 1:3 with the addition of 4 grams of soap for each liter of infusion.

Dandelion infusion

Leave 200 grams of roots and 400 grams (during its flowering period) in a bucket of water for about 4 hours.

Tobacco infusion

In 5 liters of water, infuse 200 grams of dried and crushed tobacco leaves for 2 days. Bring the volume of the drug to 10 liters, strain.

Pine infusion

Soak 1 kg of pine needles in 4 liters of water for 24 hours.

Potato infusion

Grind 1 kg of potato tops, leave for 3 hours in a 10-liter bucket of water.

Soap and tomato tops against aphids

Commonly used are vegetable oil and soap, the viscous consistency of which, combined with the enveloping properties of the oil, interfere with the insect’s respiratory process. Plants should be sprayed in the evening every few days.

An infusion of crushed tomato leaves (2 cups), which is recommended to be soaked overnight in water (2 cups), is considered quite effective. The resulting infusion must be filtered, poured into a container from which to spray the unwanted guest.

Leaf aphids of any species, green or black, feed on plant tissues, mainly young shoots, and eat leaf and flower buds.

The harm it causes is colossal, first of all, because leaf aphids reproduce very quickly, forming huge colonies in a matter of days and producing about 50 colonies per season.

In addition to the general weakening of the plant: deformation of leaves and entire branches, loss of peduncles, buds, ovaries and fruits, aphids secrete sticky secretions that clog the stomata of the leaves, or a fungus settles on them. When biting leaves, aphids can spread viral diseases.

Aphids can completely destroy young plants that have one or two growing points.

The damage from aphids is aggravated by the fact that they are not at all selective in plants; they devour everything: garden flowers, seedlings and mature vegetables, fruit trees, shrubs and herbs.

She has special preferences, for example, plums, cherries, roses; currants are one of the first to be affected by aphids. Here, different species of aphids have their own taste preferences; black aphids prefer fruits - currants, apple trees, plums, green aphids - roses, chrysanthemums and other flowers. However, this is not a general rule; sometimes it seems that aphids eat everything!

Where do aphids come from on plants?

A fertilized female aphid lays eggs on branches and bark of trees, in the root zone, usually in secluded and hard-to-reach places. The eggs overwinter quietly in clutches, or they are kept until spring by ants, and then dispersed among any of the most attractive plants.

In the warmth, the eggs rapidly develop into adult wingless females, capable of reproducing without fertilization - they produce the main hordes of enemies of our crop.

By the end of June, and in warm weather by the end of May, a new form of adult insects appears in the aphid colony - flying females. They are the reason for the widespread spread of pests. They are called disperser aphids, their task is clear and understandable - to cover as large an area as possible and lay the next generations of eggs. If we take into account the help of the wind, then the spread of pests is several tens of kilometers from the place of departure. After mating, females lay overwintering eggs and a new cycle begins in the spring.

You may have noticed a phenomenon where aphids either disappear on their own or are found again on plants - these are dioecious aphids, in the first half of the season they actively reproduce on some plants, and with the appearance of winged females they move to another group of plants, at the end of summer - early autumn, they return to the first bushes.

Ants also contribute to the spread of aphids - they feed on the sweet syrup that aphids secrete (honeydew). Ants, like proper farmers, grow aphids, take care of their eggs, protect them from other insects and are constantly near the food source, trying to increase the plantations.

Prevention of aphids

Need I repeat the platitude that preventing an aphid infestation is easier than fighting it? However, any gardener will say that he has noticed how aphids progress on some plants, while on others they are rather sluggish and few in number.

The point is in the condition of the plants themselves, if they are healthy, the trees and shrubs are whitened, there are no aphids on them or there are very few of them.

Starting in the fall, remove leaf litter from the garden area and mow down the weeds in the tree trunks. During this time, cut out the tops and root shoots on which the eggs can overwinter.

Contain or destroy anthills during the spring and summer. Complete destruction of anthills, as a rule, is not justified, since in cold, windy or rainy summers, ants remain almost the only pollinators of plants (for bees and bumblebees, non-flying weather sets in).

To protect trees from ants, you need to destroy anthills located in close proximity to fruit bushes and trees. Then, to prevent the ants from making a new path, a strip of dry wood ash should be poured around the trunks - it will protect the approaches to the trees, like a Chinese border. If rain washes away the ash, you need to renew the topping.

Whitewash against aphids

It is necessary to bleach the trunks of fruit crops not in the spring, as is customary for most gardeners, but in the fall, preventing the laying of pest eggs and destroying spores of pathogenic fungi.

First you need to clean the trunks of lichens, mosses and loose bark with a brush - for old trees with a metal brush, for younger trees - with stiff bristles. Wash all damage to the bark and cracks with iron sulfate and cover with garden varnish.

For whitewashing with 20% lime mortar you need to take:

2 kg of slaked lime and dilute in 10 liters of water or
Dilute 1-1.5 kg of quicklime in 10 liters of water

In addition, there is another recipe for whitewashing: dilute 2.5 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water.

In garden centers you can purchase ready-made whitewash based on lime and adhesives.

When whitewashing tree trunks, in addition to direct toxic contact, you seal the already laid eggs of aphids or their possible hiding places. But in the spring, whitewashing needs to be repeated.

You may argue that aphids are flying insects and can settle on trees even with whitened trunks. However, the most dangerous time for plants is the opening of young leaves, flowers, and the formation of buds, and this is early spring. By the time the aphids develop females capable of flight, the trees protected by whitewashing have time to flourish, the leaves open and harden, becoming too tough for the aphids.

Improvement of berry bushes

To prevent berry bushes from being affected by aphids, proper agricultural practices must be carried out:

Do not overfeed them with nitrogen - nitrogen-rich fertilizer makes plant sap sweeter and more attractive to aphids. It is especially dangerous to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of summer.
Add more ash - the need for potassium in fruit crops is very high. Potassium strengthens plant cell walls and increases the overall resistance of plants to stressful situations, such as cold. Aphids are only able to bite through the thin, delicate epidermis; they cannot gnaw through leaves with thick skin.
Do not overfeed the trees, but use fertilizers containing not only nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but also microelements (boron, zinc, molybdenum, iron).
Strictly monitor the acidity of the soil - plants absorb nutrients only at the optimal soil pH for them.
Replenish consumed calcium in a timely manner. Apply lime on soils rich in humus or peat bogs (1-2 kg of fluff per 3-4 year old currant bush for digging), and on sandy and sandy loam soils - dolomite flour. Let us recall the approximate application rates of dolomite flour (less on light soils, more on heavy soils):
- acidic soils (pH< 4,5) 500-600 г/кв. м
- medium acidic (pH 4.5-5.5) 450-500 g/sq. m
- slightly acidic (pH 5.5-5.8) 350-450 g/sq. m

Fighting aphids

Watering with boiling water

You can water currants and gooseberries with boiling water when there is still snow on the site, and in the trunk circles of the fruit bush the snow has thawed (about 70 cm in diameter). Those. the snow on the branches has already melted, but the buds are still dormant and have not swelled!

Heat water to a boil, pour into a watering can with a sprinkler attachment. Then immediately water the bushes along the branches and the soil around the bushes. It takes about one watering can for a small bush. When pouring boiling water into a cold metal watering can, the water temperature drops to about 80 degrees; when watering the branches, its temperature drops to 70 degrees.

This technique allows you to destroy not only aphid eggs preserved on the shoots, but powdery mildew spores and mite clutches.

You can add 3 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water to the water for other diseases. It is important not to keep the watering can strictly in one place when watering, i.e. you need to scald, and not rinse the branches in boiling water!

Ash dusting

In the spring, before the leaves fully bloom (you can at the stage of bud opening), wet the branches with water and dust the moisture with sifted wood ash.

Soap and ash solution for aphids

Pour 300 g of ash (2 cups) into a bucket with 10 liters of boiling water, add 50 g of laundry soap shavings and leave to steep overnight. Pour the solution into the sprayer through triple gauze so as not to clog the sprayer with grains of ash. Treat all branches during bud break, at the stage of young leaves (salad greens).

Treatment against aphids with soap and Domestos

For 10 liters of water, take 100 g of tar or black laundry soap, add 5 drops (with a pipette) of Domestos (or any preparation containing chlorinol). You can spray on bare branches even at the moment when the leaves have already blossomed. 10-15 minutes after treatment, wash off the leaves with clean water from a hose. The procedure can be repeated after a couple of days.

Ammonia

Another proven way to combat aphids is ammonia. Two tablespoons per bucket of water, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid soap. Helps almost instantly. No need to rinse off.

Dog shampoo against aphids

Flea shampoo for dogs and cats contains active ingredients of the pyrethroid class, they are toxic to aphids, i.e. the composition of the solution will be the same as, for example, a solution of the insecticide Iskra. The only difference is that the shampoo contains surfactants, i.e. adhesives. It is quite difficult to calculate the dose of shampoo (the concentrations of the active substance are different).

The safe dosage for plants is approximately 1 tbsp. spoon per bucket of water (10 l). Higher concentrations may cause leaf burn!

Preparations for aphids

There are many drugs against aphids, the question is how effective they are. You need to understand that systemic drugs (solutions or tablets stuck into the ground) act from the inside - when plants are absorbed by the roots.

Enteric-contact drugs will help only if the leaves and branches are thoroughly moistened. When aphids collect a colony, the leaves become shriveled, curled up, and the solution does not reach them. In this case, before spraying with aphids, you need to cut off the tops of shoots with deformed leaves. This is possible on currant or gooseberry bushes.

On large trees and tall bushes, it is technically impossible to pick out aphids manually or cut off nests, so the success of the enterprise depends on how well you carry out the spraying.

Aphid spraying time:

along the branches until the leaves open
before flowering in the beginning of budding phase
after flowering during ovary growth
30 days before harvesting fruits and berries

In general, there are three classes of insecticides that work against aphids: pyrethroids, organophosphates, and neonicotinoids.

It is best to use systemic neonicotinoid drugs:

(thiamethoxam) or Confidor (imidacloprid) - they can be watered and sprayed. They help with a bang. The problem with these drugs is that they are incredibly expensive for the average gardener: for example, for the summer of 2016, a 4 g bag of actara costs about 100 rubles - this is for 5 liters of water. If there are a lot of aphids in the garden and few trees and shrubs, treatment is very expensive. Watering is advisable only on vegetables (cucumbers and tomatoes); on trees “from the inside” (with watering) the efficiency is low.
Tanrek is also a neonicotinoid, the active ingredient is the same as that of confidor - imidacloprid, but the cost is lower, more affordable and very effective against aphids. Consumption of 3 ml per 10 liters of water - 5 liters per tree.
Spark Gold - also the active ingredient imidacloprid, for spraying 5 ml/10 l of water.
Other analogues of Tanrek and Confidor: Biotlin Bau and Biotlin, Zubr, Imidor, Kalash, Commander, Confidelin, Korado, Monsoon, Prestige, Respect, Taboo, Tsvetolyuks Bau. The principle of operation is the same, the prices are different, choose any one.

The organophosphorus compounds Actellik (pirimiphos-methyl) and Karbofos, as well as their analogs - Antiklesch, Alatar, Fufanon, etc. also help against aphids, but recently there has been increasing resistance to these drugs, so they are less preferable.

Of the permethrins available and effective to us, Kinmiks, .

Bio-preparations for aphids

The drugs and Akarin are very popular in gardening. The advantages of their use are obvious - the active substance does not penetrate through the cell membranes into the fruits and leaves, i.e. does not accumulate in plants. The preparations are non-toxic to bees already 4 hours after the sprayed leaves dry.

Every housewife has to deal with the problem of pests on indoor flowers. Even if she carefully fulfills the care requirements. Aphids can enter the house in various ways, for example, through an open window, cut flowers in the house. At the first symptoms, you can easily deal with uninvited guests.

Aphids are very tiny insects. Its dimensions range from 3 to 7 mm in length. Insects pierce the leaf shoots with a special proboscis and draw out the juice from the plant. Depending on the species, they have different colors: brown, red, black, green, white, pink.

Types of aphids on houseplants

More than 4,000 thousand species of aphids are known. Sometimes it is difficult to determine their variety.

Aphids can have winged or wingless forms. The former, thanks to their wings, infect not only one plant, but also quickly move to other specimens. The latter are characterized by mass population in a short period of time, since reproduction occurs through parthenogenesis, that is, without fertilization of the embryo.

Insects attack the ground parts of the plant and the root system. There are groups of pest colonies covered with wax fluff, which deform the crop and form galls, but there is no honeydew from them.

There are groups that secrete sweet excrement, which attracts ants. People say about such species that if ants appear, wait for aphids, and vice versa.

Insects are divided according to the type of habitat: polyphagous and monophagous aphids. One group feeds only on plants of the same type, the other is not very picky about their diet.

Let's look at the most famous types.

The insect settles on the roots of dicotyledonous plants. Beans, tobacco, beets, and cotton are most susceptible to attack by white aphids.

To stop their existence, you should change the plantings with grain crops, where the reproduction of white aphids is impossible.

White waxy pollen covers the body of the aphid. This species is one of the migratory species. They overwinter on pistachio bushes.

When spring arrives, larvae appear. They penetrate the leaf bud and actively suck the juice from the growing leaf.

During such feeding, saliva with growth substances is released. As a result, a deformed leaf shape grows and a gall forms along its edge. Aphids develop in it. As soon as the insect has grown, the galls open. Aphids migrate to wild and cultivated plants.

Subsequent generations appear on dicotyledonous plants, in their root system. Colonies grow wingless until winged females emerge and return to the pistachio bushes.

Green aphid

The insect is pale green in color. Two juice tubes stand out on the surface of the body. Green aphids are considered a threat to pears, quince, hawthorn, and apple trees.

Before winter, eggs are laid on young shoots near the bud. In the spring, the swollen buds become food for the hatched larvae. When they open, the larvae settle between the leaves. Green aphids can produce up to 17 generations per season.

Black aphid

The insect reaches a length of no more than 5 mm. In order to pierce the surfaces of leaves, there is a proboscis on the body. The insect reproduces without mating, by laying eggs. Moreover, the most aft place is chosen. The increase in offspring continues at a rapid pace.

Other types of aphids

Yellow aphid

A primitive species can be called the yellow aphid. At the first stage, winged aphids lay eggs on coniferous trees, near the buds. Then galls are formed in which non-migratory individuals develop. During the entire season, only one generation is hatched.

Blood aphid

America is considered to be the place of origin of the bloody aphid. Insects overwinter in cracks in elm bark. Two wingless offspring reproduce here. When winged offspring are formed, they emigrate to apple trees. The red body is covered with waxy wool-like threads.

The insect is very dangerous for plants. Damages young leaves and roots. On the surface of the shoots you can notice a white coating resembling cotton wool. Aphids form growths on the roots, which subsequently crack, causing rot.

Fighting bloody aphids is difficult. For example, it has good wax protection against chemicals. It can also be found in the soil.

Therefore, in the fight against it they use a natural enemy in the form Aphelinus rider. He safely lays his eggs directly into the blood aphid. The process of aphid reproduction stops, and the fruits ripen perfectly.

Beet aphid

Euonymus is a refuge for aphids for the winter. Here, the beet aphid continues the process of updating its offspring until winged individuals appear and migrate to beans and beets.

Continued reproduction on new crops can last up to 10 generations or more. Two forms of insects appear here, both winged and wingless.

What causes aphids to appear on indoor plants?

There are many reasons why aphids appear at home:

the soil;
accidental hit from the street, when bringing in any objects or cut bouquets;
ants are considered carriers;
a new plant that is already infected and has not passed quarantine;
while airing or walking flowers on the balcony;
dry soil and high ambient temperature.

What harm does aphids cause to indoor plants?

The invasion of aphids on indoor plants is very dangerous, since the food for aphids is the life-giving sap of the plant, which it needs to maintain strength and growth.

The main problem is that the young shoots and buds are the first to be attacked. It is thanks to them that flowers open in all their glory. And as a result of the attack, the bush becomes deformed, loses its decorative effect, the leaves curl and fall off. Ultimately, we end up with the death of the plant.

Aphids pierce leaves, which creates additional foci for infection by viruses and bacteria.

Signs of aphid damage to plants

Signs of plant infestation by aphids:

When caring for potted flowers, you should pay attention to the lower part of the leaf, stem, and buds. If clusters of aphid colonies appear, they can be seen with the naked eye.
Leaves that have lost their juice begin to curl. Transparent sticky discharge can be seen on the surface.
The buds are underdeveloped and fall off.
The bush loses its decorative appearance, the tops of the shoots are especially deformed.

How to get rid of aphids on indoor plants?

All pest control products are good at the first stage of infection:

Chemical.
Biological. Natural enemies are attracted in the form of ladybugs, wasps, and lacewings.
Ecological. Spray the leaves, use oil products. Protect the buds from contact with non-toxic agents. Display plants that repel aphids.
Folk recipes.

Chemicals

Treating plants with poisonous agents is a standard procedure, as when spraying water, only with the addition of pesticides and insecticides.

Among the chemicals, the following drugs can be noted:

Folk remedies

If for some reason you cannot use chemicals, you can use gentle methods:

Red pepper. Pour 25 g of the main ingredient with boiling water (250 ml). Leave for 24 hours, after boiling for 60 minutes. Strain the contents and prepare a solution: 2.5 g of soap, 0.5 ml of water, 5 g of pepper tincture.
Alcohol. Dissolve soap (1 tsp) in water (0.5 ml). Add alcohol (1 tsp). Spray the upper parts of the leaves and wipe the lower surface with a brush dipped in the solution. Leave for a quarter of an hour and rinse with water to avoid burns.
Wood ash. Pour one glass of the main ingredient with water (5 liters). Add 25 g of soap and leave for 24 hours.
Orange peels. Combine warm water in an amount of 1.5 ml with orange or lemon peels (150 g). After 3 days the tincture is ready.
Spruce. Combine 1 ml of water and 250 g of spruce branches. Keep in a dark place for 7 days. Dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1:7.
Celandine. Cut a fresh bush during flowering, 200 g, add water (0.5 ml). After 1-1.5 days the solution is ready for use.
Dandelion. Cut 200 g of fresh plant, pour 5 liters of warm water. After 2 hours you can spray the flowers.
Nettle. Cut the grass before flowering 250 g, add 2.5 liters of water. Spray every other day.
Bulb onions. Pour 15 g of onion with water (1 l). After 7 hours you can use it.
Garlic. Crush 10 g of garlic and add 0.5 liters of water. After a day, the solution is ready.
Yarrow. Pour boiling water over 40 g of herb and boil for half an hour. Add water to the original 0.5 liter mark and leave for 1 hour. Add 2 g of soap to the solution before use.
Tobacco. Take 20 g of tobacco for 0.5 liters of water and leave for 24 hours. Before processing, add 2 g of soap.
Tomato tops. Fresh raw materials 800 g, add water and boil for half an hour. Add 8 g of soap before spraying.

How to properly treat plants?

Rules for treating plants against aphids:

Treatment with drugs will be effective if they are applied to all infected areas. But since aphids roll up the leaves, this is very difficult to do. Some gardeners dip the shoots directly into the solution if the plant is compact enough.
You can use a plastic bag. Spray the aerosol and close the bag for a day. In this case, 100% death of all pests.
When processing large specimens, prepare a ladder.
Optimal rate: for every sq. cm should get up to 50 drops. It is worth paying attention to the sprayer so that its spread is large.
You need to change them from time to time, as they are addictive.
Spray preparations with an oil base strictly on the leaves and trunk, but not on the buds and flowers. From such a hit they stick together and fall off.

Prevention

The plant can be protected from pests if you follow the following precautions:

Indoor flowers love care; weak, sick specimens require special attention.
Send new flowers to quarantine.
Keep the environment warm and dry, favorable conditions for aphids.
Remove faded and dry leaves.
Do not overfeed the flowers.
Choose a planting location with diffused light.
Get rid of ants.

Conclusion

Flowers in the house require care. If you fulfill all the requirements for caring for plants, aphids are not scary for them. But in case of infection, use any of the listed methods to combat aphids.

Yellowing, deformed leaves, slow growth and, most importantly, a cluster of small insects on the tops of young shoots - all these are signs that aphids have infested your plantings. This small pest feeds on plant sap, as a result of which the affected plant withers, dries and, ultimately, may die. And since aphids reproduce simply at lightning speed, absolutely all crops that suit their taste can be destroyed. Don't let the situation become irreversible! After all, you will learn right now how to get rid of aphids in your garden, garden and indoor flowers, using your choice of chemical or folk remedies.

Aphids are clearly visible on the plant - they create crowded groups on the tops of the shoots

Aphids are small pests, but not tiny, like, for example. Therefore, we don’t have to arm ourselves with a magnifying glass to identify him. Its body is wide, pear-shaped, reaching a length of 0.5-6 mm. On top it is covered with “armor” - a protective waxy or woolly coating. There are two long antennae on the head, two tubes and a small elongated tail on the back.

Aphids can be anything in color: black, green, yellow, white, gray, red, pink. The color depends on the type of pest and its food preferences.

In the photo below you can see the aphids in all their glory:

Our heroine - aphid - at multiple magnification

Most adult individuals are wingless, but as the population expands, when food on an established plant becomes catastrophically scarce, winged forms appear. They can fly to other plants, reproduce there and create new colonies.

Signs of defeat

Aphids do not sit idle on the plant, they actively eat it and leave traces of their vital activity.

In this case, you can notice the following manifestations of infection:

Accumulation of small pests on the tops of shoots, on flower buds or on young stems. Aphids do not have a very powerful sucking apparatus, so they prefer young, succulent leaves and stems, which they can easily bite through.
Damaged leaves curl and grow deformed. Some types of aphids inject a toxin into the leaves, so they curl, becoming natural armor for the pest. A whole population of aphids can hide in such “twists”.
The leaves and stems are covered with a sticky, sweet liquid called honeydew. This is what aphids secrete as they feed on plant sap. Honeydew quickly becomes covered with a black coating - a sooty fungus, which not only spoils the appearance of the plant, but also slows down the processes of photosynthesis.
Aphids are carriers of many plant viruses. For example, diseases such as sugar beet jaundice and barley yellow dwarf are viral in nature and are spread through aphids.
Some species of aphids, such as the phylloxera aphid, are capable of forming galls (swells) on leaves and roots.

Reasons for appearance

Sometimes it seems that aphids materialize on plants literally out of thin air. In fact, there are several variants of infection:

Migration of winged individuals born in a colony due to overpopulation. They can fly to your plantings, for example, from a neighboring area.
The activity of ants, which in the literal sense of the word are carriers of aphids. Garden workers create a symbiosis with pests that is beneficial to both of them. Aphids, while feeding, secrete a sweet nutritious liquid - honeydew, which the ants feast on. The ants, in turn, protect the aphids from the attacks of other insects and transfer them from one plant to another. Neither give nor take farmers who drive their cows out to pasture! Aphids, in fact, are for ants a kind of analogue of cows, which are not only milked, but also taken care of. Even in winter, so that the “livestock” does not die, they are brought into an anthill. And in the spring they are taken out and planted on nutritious plants to be grown and “milked” again. So, if you have ants on your property, there will almost certainly be aphids as well. And you will have to destroy not only the direct pest, but also the insect carriers.
On a personal plot, aphids can appear in the spring - from eggs that survived the winter in the soil and fallen leaves.
On indoor flowers, infection often occurs after transplantation into soil contaminated with eggs.

The carriers of aphids are usually garden workers - ants.

Aphids on roses are a common occurrence

Some aphids have food preferences. For example, potato aphids usually cause damage to potatoes. But there are other, less picky species that, once on your plot or balcony, will feed on almost everything. For example, the green peach aphid, despite being very favorable to peaches and plums, will not refuse peppers, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, melon, corn, spinach, lettuce, roses, etc. There are also species such as beet root aphid, which attack not the leaves and stems, but the roots of the plant. They live in the soil, so they are more difficult to identify, but they cause damage similar to other types of aphids.

How to deal with aphids: a list of methods

You can fight a dangerous pest using:

Folk remedies are a method that often requires persistence and lengthy treatments. Usually used for the treatment of vegetable and garden fruit crops. The substances used are absolutely safe; the fruits can be eaten any day after treatment. In indoor floriculture, folk remedies are usually used for preventive purposes (to protect against aphids) or during the initial stage of infection.

Chemical pesticides - this method is faster. However, the pesticides used can poison not only the aphids, but also your crop. Therefore, they should be used to treat garden crops 2-3 weeks before harvest, strictly following the instructions.
Insect predators are a completely natural biological method that involves involving their natural enemies in the fight against aphids: ladybugs, hoverflies, green lacewings, etc.
Protective plants are an auxiliary method that can be used in addition to the main one.

Folk remedies for aphids - victory without chemicals

If aphids appear on crops whose fruits you will eat, you should start fighting them without chemicals. This is especially true if the infection is in the initial stage and has not become an epidemic. As a rule, fighting aphids in this case will take longer, but it will be safer.

Soapy water

A very effective remedy for aphids, which can be used in the countryside and on your own plot without fear. Soap dissolves the waxy shell of the aphid, dehydrates it and leads to death. To prepare the drug, use laundry soap, liquid soap (preferably laundry or tar), and dishwashing detergent (for example, Fairy).

Make a solution in the following proportion:

30 g of grated laundry soap per 1 liter of warm water.

1 tbsp. spoon of liquid soap per 1 liter of water.

When using grated bar soap, you should wait until the solids are completely dissolved. When using liquid soap, just stir it thoroughly in water. The resulting solution is sprayed on the affected plants once every 2-3 days for 2 weeks.

Soap solution is the most popular folk remedy against aphids and many other pests.

Onion peel infusion

20 g of husks (onion scales) are poured into a liter of water, infused and sprayed on diseased plants every 5 days until the aphids are completely defeated.

Garlic infusion

Grind 200 g of garlic (preferably in a blender), add 1 liter of water and leave covered for 4-5 days. For watering and spraying, use a solution: 25 ml of the resulting infusion-concentrate is mixed with 10 liters of water.

More complex recipe. 10-12 cloves of garlic, crushed to a paste, are poured with 1.5-2 glasses of water, stirred until completely dissolved. Filter through gauze. Then add 2 tbsp to the resulting solution. spoons of vegetable oil and a little (1/4 teaspoon) liquid soap. Mix well until the oil and soap are mixed with the garlic water. This solution is sprayed on the plants every day for a week. Then it can be used once a week to protect against aphids.

Soda ash solution

Pour 3 teaspoons of soda ash into 10 liters of water (bucket), mix and pour into a spray bottle.

Ash-soap solution

3 cups of ash are poured into 10 liters of warm water and stirred. Leave for 2 days, then filter. Add 40 g of liquid or grated soap to the resulting solution.

Mustard infusion

20 g of mustard powder is poured into 1 liter of water and left for 24 hours. For greater effectiveness, you can add liquid soap to the infusion (dosage - 4 g per 1 liter).

Camomile tea

100 g of dried chamomile (stems, flowers, leaves) are poured into 1 liter of hot water, left for 12 hours, then filtered. For spraying, dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1:3 and mix in liquid soap (4 g per 1 liter).

Yarrow infusion

80 g of dried yarrow (stems, flowers, leaves) are poured into 1 liter of boiling water and left for 1.5-2 days. An accelerated option is to prepare a decoction. To do this, the raw materials are not infused, but boiled for 30 minutes (in the same ratio with water). Then cool and add soap (2 g per 1 l).

Tobacco infusion

100 g of dry tobacco (shag) is poured into 1 liter of hot water and left for 2-3 hours. Then it is filtered and, before use, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5.

Vinegar solution

Dissolve 1 teaspoon of 9% vinegar in 1 liter of water. The resulting solution is used for spraying.

A solution of ammonia 10% (ammonia) with soap

Dissolve 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of ammonia and 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid soap (preferably tar), mix. Since ammonia is a source of nitrogen, it is advisable to use this product before mid-summer.

We invite you to watch a video about preparing ammonia-soap solution:

Soap and iodine solution

Dissolve 1/3 of a piece of grated laundry soap in 10 liters of water, then pour in 2 caps of iodine. The prepared solution is used immediately for spraying.

Iodine and soap on guard against aphids

Orange peel infusion

100 g of dry peel is poured into 1 liter of warm water and left for 3 days.

Essential oil solution

In a glass (250 ml) of water, dissolve 4-5 drops of essential oils of thyme, mint, cloves, rosemary. Stir well, shake and spray the liquid onto diseased plants every morning for a week. This powerful essential oil blend will kill most insect pests, as well as their eggs and larvae.

Vodka

Regular vodka can be used as an effective insecticide against aphids. It’s easy to use: just pour the liquid into a spray bottle and spray the plants. Instead of vodka, you can use alcohol diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.

Coca Cola

It is used in the fight against aphids according to the same principle as vodka. Pour into a spray bottle and spray the plantings.

Note!

Before using any aphid treatment in full, do a test spray on a small part of the plant. Then watch him for several days. In the absence of adverse reactions (leaf deformation, yellowing, burns), the proven method can be given the green light.

Spraying is carried out early in the morning or in the evening, alternatively in cloudy weather. When exposed to the sun and high temperatures, even organic pesticides can burn leaves. If rain is expected, treatment begins only when the weather clears. Otherwise, rain will wash away the solution and render it useless.

Chemical preparations for aphids

If folk remedies fail to destroy aphids, you should turn your attention to chemical preparations from a series of insecticides.

The rules for spraying with chemicals are the same as when using folk remedies. And be sure to first do a test treatment on a small area to check for an adverse reaction.

The following drugs are used against aphids:

Green soap is the most non-toxic, gentle contact insecticide available in the form of liquid soap. It is used for spraying affected plants, but is most effective for prevention.
Aktara is a systemic insecticidal preparation for controlling aphids in the garden and at home. It penetrates the vascular system of the plant and spreads through the tissues, while its juice becomes poisonous and poisons aphids. The good thing about this product is that it works effectively both when watering and when spraying. It is especially convenient to treat trees and shrubs on the site with Aktara - to remove aphids, you do not need to spray every branch, just water the affected plants and the pest will disappear.
Iskra series of preparations (BIO, M, Gold, Double effect) are insecticides with different active ingredients that destroy aphids and many other pests. The form of treatment is watering and/or spraying.
Fitoverm is an insectoacaricide and belongs to the category of biological products. It is very popular as a means of destroying almost all pests on indoor flowers; it kills aphids outright. It has an intestinal contact effect, the method of treatment is spraying.
Actellik is an enteric contact insectoacaricide, very toxic, classified as hazard class 2. An armor-piercing agent, it has a specific odor characteristic of FOS (such as dichlorvos, karbofos). It is used against aphids in exceptional cases; its use is justified if more “complex” pests are present on plants, for example, spider mites.
Fufanon is another FOS, the active ingredient is malathion. An analogue of karbofos, Iskra M. Effectively destroys aphids and other sucking and gnawing pests. Treatment method: spraying.
Komandor, Konfidor, Tanrek, Biotlin are analogues, systemic preparations for the destruction of aphids and other insects. The active ingredient is imidacloprid. The insecticide enters the plant tissue and makes it poisonous to aphids. Treatment – watering and spraying.
Intavir is an enteric-contact chemical that can rid the garden of aphids and a host of other insects. The active ingredient is cypermethrin. Spraying required.
Alatar is a complex remedy for intestinal contact action. Contains: malathion (karbofos) and cypermethrin (the active ingredient of Intavir). Treatment method: spraying.

It usually takes 2-3 applications at 7-day intervals to completely get rid of aphids. If after this period part of the population survives, the drug should be changed, since all chemical pesticides can cause resistance (addiction). When replacing, you should select a drug with a different active ingredient.

Any chemical, especially used in gardens and vegetable gardens, on food crops, is fraught with danger. Firstly, there are risks of fruit poisoning. They can be eaten only 2-3 weeks after treatment with pesticides. Secondly, chemicals can destroy not only pests, but also beneficial insects, primarily bees. Therefore, they should be used only before the flowers on the plant open.

Controlling aphids using natural enemies

Aphids can be destroyed not only by various sprays, but also with the help of predatory insects - entomophages. They eat the pest and/or its eggs and thus keep the population under control or completely exterminate it. Entomophages can be bought in specialized stores (many are available on the Internet) or brought to your site yourself. Often this method allows you to get rid of aphids both in the greenhouse and in the garden forever.

Ladybug

This insect is capable of consuming 50-60 aphids per day, and it also destroys mealybugs, mites and a number of other pests.

The ladybug, both in adulthood and in the larval stage, is a tireless predator in the fight against aphids

Hoverfly, syrphid (Syrphidae)

The larvae of this species feed on aphids and other soft-bodied pests, including spider mites, keeping their numbers under control. During the day, the hoverfly larva eats about 200 aphids.

Hoverfly larvae, which look like fat caterpillars, eat aphids and many other pests

Green lacewing (Chrysoperla rufilabris)

The adult lacewing feeds on the nectar of flowers, but its larvae, which look like miniature alligators, are real predators. In the larval stage, the insect eats about 600 aphids, as well as other harmful insects and mites.

Aphids also feed on:

some wasps (Aphidius);
cicadas;
crickets;
ground beetles;
earwigs (pincers);
riders.

To attract beneficial insect predators to your plot, you should plant dill, fennel, carrots, parsley, celery, dandelion and tansy.

Planting protective plants

Another biomethod. It is based on planting plants that either repel aphids, or, conversely, attract them and take the “brunt” of the blow, thus protecting the crops being grown.

Repellent plants

They have phytoncidal properties that repel aphids and many other pests. To improve the health of the area, garlic, mustard, parsley, basil, wormwood, marigolds, calendula, tansy, and mint are planted on it.

Marigolds are repellent plants that will help repel aphids from cabbage

Plants that Attract Aphids

There is another option: do the opposite. And plant plants that attract aphids next to the infected crop: petunia, cosmos, beans, cleome, mallow. The pest switches to a more palatable bait, after which you can remove it from the area along with the aphids. Or, if you feel sorry, use chemical sprays with pesticides on it.

After killing aphids, be vigilant to prevent reinfestation. Inspect your plants frequently, especially the undersides of the leaves. If you see signs of a pest, take action immediately. And your plants will thank you!