Tabletop circular drawings. DIY circular machine. Video: Table for a circular table made from scrap materials

Primary processing of wooden materials often involves cutting them. To perform this, you can use several types of tools - from manual to electric models. The most effective is a stationary circular saw, which you can make yourself.

Circular saw design

At the first stage, you should understand the design features and determine the optimal manufacturing scheme. It directly depends on the characteristics of the work performed, the dimensions of the workpiece, and the type of wood. Only after this can a circular saw be made with your own hands.

The main component of the saw is the disk, on the end surface of which the cutting teeth are located. They can differ not only in geometric dimensions, but also in the angle of inclination relative to the plane of the disk. To perform cuts, the design includes an electric motor. It can be connected to the disk directly (via a shaft) or using a torque transmission system. This tool is designed for making longitudinal and transverse cuts; in some models it is possible to make angular cuts relative to the plane of the workpiece.

Before making a circular saw with your own hands, you should select the processing depth. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the equipment classification:

small - from 40 to 46 mm;
medium - from 55 to 55 mm;
large - from 65 to 70 mm;
professional - from 65 to 140 mm.

For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a small or medium cutting depth. If complex processing of materials is required, a hand-held circular saw will be required. To make vertical cuts, you can make a homemade sawmill.

For woodworking, it is necessary to choose discs with a positive sharpening angle. Otherwise, the wood fibers will not be cut, but rather torn.

Designing a table for a circular saw

The main component of the future design is a table made by yourself. It will house the power unit, cutting tool, control unit and additional components to perform the work.

There are two fundamentally different schemes for constructing a table. In the first case, it is designed to work with a hand saw. The main task of the support frame is to fix the workpiece and the ability to change the direction of cuts. Most often, wooden components are used to make a table with your own hands - chipboard sheets, slats and timber.

The sawmill is one of the types of circular saws. The difference lies in the lower location of the disk. In this case, the table serves as a bed. It houses the power unit, there is a disk mounting unit, as well as a control system.

During design, the following points must be considered:

electric motor power. For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a power density of up to 800 W;
depth of cut. Depends on the geometric parameters of the disk;
rotation frequency. To form an even color, this characteristic must be at least 1600 rpm;
location of the control unit. It should be as far away from the disk as possible.

The dimensions of the homemade design depend on the size of the parts being processed. To make a manual sawmill, it is recommended to use a metal sheet as a tabletop. Additionally, stiffening ribs are mounted at its base.

When choosing a factory model of a saw to complete a table made by yourself, you should provide for the possibility of mounting it at the bottom of the table top. To do this, you will need to make an additional transition mounting block.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

Drawing up a manufacturing scheme depends on the actual availability of consumables. Most attention needs to be paid to the design of the table. In addition to functionality, it must be stable and withstand maximum pressure without changing its position.

First you need to make a tabletop with your own hands. To do this, markings are made on the sheet material. It is best to take the tool and mark the cutout locations based on its dimensions. Using a router, a recess is made for mounting the tool. Then you need to install additional components:

support for workpieces. This is a wooden strip that is attached to the tabletop. Its position can be changed relative to the disk;
grooves for support. They are milled onto the surface of the tabletop;
yardstick. It is installed at the leading edge of the disk. Necessary for forming blanks of a certain width and length;
clamps. They are an additional component. With their help, the part is rigidly fixed on the table for processing its surface with hand tools.

After this, according to the actual dimensions of the tabletop, it is necessary to make support legs. To do this, you can use 40*40 mm wooden beams or steel corners. To improve stability, stiffening ribs are attached between the legs. The saw control unit should be located near the workplace. An RCD and fuses must be installed in case the maximum load of the electric motor is exceeded.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major renovations or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

adapting existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new capabilities;
improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular machine, a washing machine motor is quite suitable. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setup, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

The characteristics of the circular saw, the engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is not sufficient for comfortable work; the circular saw will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

loosen the nuts on the racks;
we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
tighten the stud nuts;
We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. We raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disk so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine is time saving and work safety.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with basic plumbing skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a strong table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.

Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can work with small-sized workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the operator’s safety. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.

You won't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from a metal angle (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastening to come loose.

Electric welding must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

Those people who often do carpentry work for themselves or to order, simply need to have a stationary circular saw in their carpentry workshop. Working on a stationary machine is very convenient and, again, the back position is straight, which is important during long and monotonous work.

Today, stores have a large selection of machines and tools, but a simple carpenter cannot afford a couple of them and has to get out of the situation using natural ingenuity. For example, a master made a stationary saw from a hand-held circular saw, how did he do it? Let's look further.

Materials
1. hand-held circular saw
2. plywood 11 mm
3. M-8 bolts with furniture head
4. screws
5. switch
6. wire
7. timber 40x40
8. furniture guides

Tools
1. jigsaw
2. hand-held circular saw
3. drill
4. screwdriver
5. hammer
6. screwdriver
7. pliers
8. ruler

The process of creating a stationary circular saw.
And as was said above, the author made his circular saw from a manual circular saw, and no changes were made to the design of the saw. Here a table is simply made, and the saw sole is attached to the underside of the tabletop, where a cut for the disk is first made, holes are first drilled and then sawn. The base is created from plywood and 40x40 timber.

Then a tabletop is cut out of plywood; the author recommends using laminated or varnished, because the surface is even and smooth. As agreed, the cut is made, and holes are drilled in the corners for subsequent fastening.

A circular saw is attached to the underside of the tabletop using M-8 bolts, mainly the bolt heads should be sunk into the plywood.

The switch is installed and connected, the start button on the saw is fixed in the pressed position, and the switch is connected to the outlet, so there is no need to disassemble the saw or connect anything to it.

Also, for ease of work, a movable emphasis was placed on furniture guides.

The longitudinal stop is made of aluminum angle.

To adjust it, you need to loosen the bolts and move it to the distance required for subsequent work.

But as you understand, with this installation of the saw, 10-20 mm will be lost.

And this is exactly what the author came up with.

Also presented to your attention is video material from which you will learn a lot. Enjoy watching!

This is where I end the story. Thank you for your attention! Come visit more often, don't miss out on what's new in the world

A circular saw is a tool that no craftsman can do without. Such a unit is especially necessary in a country house or country house. But working with hand tools is not always convenient, and branded machines are quite expensive. A way out of the situation may be to independently manufacture such a device. The basis of such a home machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but also a grinder or even a drill.

Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands will cost much less than a ready-made store-bought version.

It’s not at all difficult to assemble a frame for a circular saw that is quite simple in design with your own hands. To make it you will need the simplest lumber and very little time.

Saw frame design

Before considering the design of the future machine, it is necessary to calculate the load that will fall on it. Because the main thing in such a frame is stability and reliability. For powerful industrial saws, the base is a reinforced welded steel structure. But such a unit is not needed for a home workshop. If you are just planning to assemble your own woodworking machine, then you should take into account the basic parameters of the tool itself. After all, saws are different, and, accordingly, the design of the table should be different.

First of all, you need to consider the power of the tool. Typically, for a home workshop, a unit is chosen whose parameters do not exceed 800 W. But, for example, when building a house or cottage, a fairly large volume of wood has to be cut. At the same time, the power of the circular saw should be greater. But experts do not recommend purchasing saws whose characteristics are higher than 1200 W. There is no justification for installing such a tool in a private workshop. And working on it will only increase energy costs.

Remember: the higher the productivity of your machine, the more stable the base for it should be. For professional circular saws, a base assembled from a metal profile is usually installed. Sometimes such frames are even built into the floor. Because vibration of the machine can lead to situations dangerous to life and health.

Return to contents

Nuances to consider

The second parameter for choosing a saw is the depth of the intended cut. The thickness of the lumber processed on your machine depends on it. This parameter of professional and semi-professional models ranges from 4 to 7 cm. This is enough for sawing boards and even fairly thick plywood. But it will be inconvenient to process logs on such a machine. In addition, it is worth considering that this characteristic of a saw built into the frame with your own hands is reduced. The depth of the cut becomes smaller by about 1 cm. But this can be changed if the design of the table includes the ability to raise or lower the disk.

When choosing a tool, it is necessary to take into account its rotation frequency. If you need a circular saw to prepare building material, then this parameter may be lower. When an even and clean cut is needed, the rotation speed must be high enough. This is necessary, for example, for making furniture. But even this situation has its own nuances. This saw is not suitable for processing plastic materials. Due to too high tool speeds, the disc heats up and the plastic melts. Therefore, it is worth choosing a unit whose rotation speed does not exceed 4000 rpm; in this case, the table for a circular saw can be assembled from wood. The vibration of such a machine is insignificant and additional reinforcement of the frame is not required.

The last thing you need to consider when making your own woodworking machine is the location of the buttons and other controls. When assembling a circular saw with your own hands, remember that access to the controls must be safe. This rule is especially relevant if the tool is installed at the bottom of the tabletop. In this case, it makes more sense to install the panel with switches on the outside of the machine. Or provide a rising tabletop. This design will also help in servicing the unit. After you have taken into account all the little details and nuances, you can proceed directly to making the table.

Return to contents

Preparatory stage of work

The simplest version of a table for a circular saw is a structure assembled from boards and fairly thick plywood from which the tabletop is made. In this case, the tool itself is fixed at the bottom of a stationary (non-rising) tabletop. There is a special slot in the frame cover for the disk. A drawing of such a machine is shown in Fig. 1.

The dimensions for the bed can be changed so that it is convenient for you to work. The average table height is taken as an example. It is 100-115 cm. But much depends on the height of the person who will work with the tool. In addition, the length of the tabletop can also be changed as desired. If you plan to work with boards whose length exceeds 2.5 m, then the table top should be larger. Then it is necessary to make changes to the structure itself and add an additional pair of supports (legs). Otherwise the bed will vibrate too much.

For the countertop, you can take plywood, whose thickness should be at least 50 mm. But you can also use fiberglass slabs and plexiglass. But experts do not recommend using chipboard, since this material is not strong enough.

The table top can be polished and coated with several layers of varnish. This will ensure sufficient sliding of the sawn materials. But it is much wiser to strengthen a sheet of iron on the tabletop. Then the surface of the bed will be much more reliable, and the machine will last you longer.

Return to contents

Required materials and tools

For a woodworking machine, it is necessary to provide guides. They will help you cut the material accurately. This structure is welded from a metal corner and secured to the tabletop with clamps.

It is not recommended to install stationary guides, because in the future you will not be able to change their position.

To make a table you will need the following materials:

sheet of plywood (countertop made of another material);
iron sheet;
board with a section of 5*10 cm;
timber with a section of 5*5 cm;
clamps - 2 pcs;
metal corner for guides;
hand circular saw.

In addition, it is wiser to prepare in advance all the tools that will be needed to make the table:

jigsaw or hacksaw;
electric drill, screwdriver;
milling machine or hand cutter (you can do without this tool);
measuring instruments (ruler, square, tape measure).

When everything you need is ready, you can proceed directly to assembling the table. Some craftsmen make frames from old kitchen or dining tables. But such a design is unlikely to last long enough. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the parts yourself. At the same time, you can take into account your individual needs.

Return to contents

Assembling the saw table

The manufacture of the frame begins with the formation of the tabletop. The plywood sheet is marked so that 2 edges of the cover coincide with the edges of the sheet. The workpiece is cut out using a jigsaw or hacksaw. If desired, the edge of the cut can be processed with a milling cutter. But this operation is not mandatory. Because the main parameter in a table for a circular saw is its reliability, not its beauty. The table top is roughened with sandpaper.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the tabletop. To do this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the unit’s sole. The easiest way to do this is to remove the blade from the tool and simply trace the required part of the saw. These parameters are necessary to form the seat.

Using a hand cutter, wood is selected to a depth of approximately 0.8-1 cm. If you do not have such a tool, then the work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

After the seat is ready, be sure to try on the saw, adjusting the recess if necessary. Mark the locations for fixing the fasteners and the slots for the disk. If you want the saw blade to lower and rise at your request, then you need to build a pendulum mechanism for the table. In this case, the slot should have the shape of a truncated pyramid. Moreover, the hypothetical top of this figure is directed downward. An example of a drawing of such a design with a belt drive is shown in Fig. 2. It makes more sense to make the frame itself for the lifting mechanism from metal corners that are welded together.