Growing remontant strawberries and rules for caring for them depending on the variety. All about remontant strawberries, rules of care and propagation: Should you prune remontant strawberries in the fall?

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Specialist with 7 years of experience in horticultural crops

There are varieties that produce crops continuously - up to 3 times a year. Even with excellent material, achieving maximum results is not easy. Only special attention and careful care will help increase productivity and enjoy the strawberry taste of the fruit from early spring to late autumn.

What are remontant strawberries?

Remontant varieties differ from those familiar to gardeners by bearing fruit without interruption. One harvest cycle gives way to another, and if you take care of the material, it is quite possible to harvest up to 3-4 harvests per season. The advantages of the crop do not end there; gardeners highlight several more positive qualities:

early fruiting - it will bloom and form an ovary 2 weeks earlier than usual varieties;
frost resistance;
large fruits;
variety of tastes, shades, shapes of berries;
resistance to pests and diseases.

Remontant strawberry harvest

There are drawbacks - they significantly complicate the care of remontant strawberries. These include:

significant demands on watering, lighting, fertilizers;
mandatory transplant after 2-3 years;
Possibility of growing only seedlings.

Based on the size of the fruits, small-fruited and large-fruited varieties are distinguished. Representatives of the first group are resistant to low temperatures, do not form whiskers, and therefore reproduce exclusively by seeds. They bear fruit continuously throughout the season, are not capricious, and are easy to care for.

Large-fruited strawberries form many tendrils, produce 2-3 harvests, after which they age in just a year. The best remontant varieties:

Super-production;
Arapaho;
Temptation;
Rapella;
Bordurella;
Evi 2;
Diva F1;
Crimean;
Queen Elizabeth 2;
San Andreas;
Monterey;
Ruyana;
Forest fairy tale;
Ali Baba;
White dream.

Caring for remontant strawberries

Growing remontant strawberries is not difficult. These varieties are rarely called capricious, but some nuances of care are preserved. Considering them, you will get a pleasant harvest. Don't skip any steps. Equally important:

watering;
fertilization;
loosening the soil;
mulching;
getting rid of weeds;
pest control;
treatment of diseases;
pruning;
preparation for the winter period.

Watering

Watering strawberries

Soil moisture is more important for remontant species than for ordinary ones. In dry times, special attention should be paid to this. After transplanting, the bushes need to be watered daily. After a week, watering can be reduced to 1 time/2 days, and over time increased to 2 times a month. Lack of moisture will lead to the formation of fewer ovaries or deformed fruits.

You need to water the beds with warm water (20–25 °C). A rain barrel made from a dark-colored barrel will do - it will heat up on its own. It is important to ensure that the soil is moistened 2–3 cm deep. The procedure is carried out in the morning or evening, when there is no heat. When you can’t water the plants often, simply mulch the soil around the bushes. This will retain valuable moisture and reduce the amount of watering.

Mulching and loosening

Strawberries mulched with straw

When caring for remontant strawberries, experienced gardeners recommend mulching the soil. The procedure has a number of advantages:

prevents ripe berries from contacting the ground and rotting;
retains moisture in the soil, reducing the amount of watering;
allows air to reach the roots - there is no need to loosen the soil;
prevents weeds from germinating.

As mulch, feel free to use sawdust, straw, spruce branches, humus, hay, mown grass, and agrofibre. Carry out the procedure immediately after watering or the next day. Instead of mulching, for example, during rains, the soil can be loosened. This must be done very carefully. The roots are located close to the soil surface and are easily damaged.

You also need to weed the beds carefully. In addition to the roots, you can damage your mustache. The main task of weeding and loosening is to prevent the appearance of crust on the ground and ensure aeration of the roots. Please pay Please note that after mulching it will be easier to care for the plantations - loosening and weeding will no longer be required.

Fertilizer application

Strawberry fertilizer

When caring for remontant strawberries, take care of fertilizing. Frequent fruiting leads to depletion of bushes. To support the culture you will need a lot of micro- and macroelements. What strawberries need most is:

early spring in nitrogen;
during flowering, after fruiting - in potassium.

Phosphorus is also required, but in smaller quantities. It can be applied one-time - during the preparation of the beds. Take superphosphate - 15-20 g/1 sq. m. Application scheme:

By the end of May, urea is added, dissolving 1-2 g in a bucket of water. This dosage is calculated for one square. m of land.
During the period of formation of peduncles for the second fruiting (2nd half of June), the plantations are fertilized with one of 2 means:
- mullein with water (solution - 1:10), consumption - 0.5 liters of mixture per square meter. m of soil;
- bird droppings with water (ratio – 1:15), consumption – 0.3 l/1 sq. m.

Together with organic fertilizers, complex mineral fertilizers are good. Feel free to take drugs that have proven themselves in gardening - Crystallin, Mortar, Kemira Lux, Nitroammofoska. During the season, plantations are fertilized 10–15 times.

Disease and pest control

Strawberry diseases

Pests and diseases are destructive to the delicate plant. What you may have to face when organizing care for remontant strawberries:

When caring, it is necessary to trim the mustache and tops in a timely manner. Organize work in spring/autumn after harvest. In cold areas, autumn pruning is carried out. Better to deal with the bushesimmediately after picking berries. Otherwise, the plant will not have time to acquire new greenery before frost, which will provide it with thermal insulation in winter. If you didn’t have time to trim in time, then it’s better to cancel the treatment altogether.

During the procedure, the mustache and lower foliage are removed without affecting the upper leaves. Fruit buds are laid in them, from which new fruits will form in the next season. After pruning, it is recommended to treat the bushes with insecticides. In order for new leaves to grow faster, the plants are regularly watered and fed with organic fertilizers.

In the northern and central regions, caring for remontant strawberries in the fall involves warming the plantations. Plants are covered with a layer (5 cm) of fallen leaves or manure. They also build a pile of tree branches between the rows. In winter, they will be covered with snow and create natural shelter in the form of snowdrifts.

How to propagate remontant strawberries

When caring for remontant strawberries, many people think about how to propagate them. This is done in one of three ways: by seeds, by rosettes formed on the tendrils, by dividing the bushes. Each of them has its own disadvantages and difficulties.

Seeds

Strawberry seedlings from seeds

The disadvantage of this method is that it is troublesome and labor intensive. But sowing seeds will cost less than buying seedlings. Where can I get seed? Buy or assemble yourself. To do this, fill a blender glass 2/3 with water, add 5-6 strawberries and blend. Grind the resulting mass through a sieve. Transfer the seeds remaining on the surface to a thick cloth and dry for 2 days. Strawberries are grown by seed as follows:

In February, the seed is soaked for 3 days in water or melted snow. The fluid is changed regularly.
The bottom of containers for growing seedlings is filled with a layer of drainage and loose soil. You can buy it or make it yourself by mixing:
- soil from the garden where strawberries grew (25%);
- leaf humus (50%);
- sifted sand (25%).
The soil is moistened, seeds are poured on top and lightly pressed into the soil. Then spray it with a spray bottle, cover it with film (glass) and place it in a room with a temperature of +20-+25˚C.
Watering is carried out in a tray so as not to wash the seed.
After the shoots emerge, the film is removed, and the seedlings are transferred to a lighted place, regularly watered and ventilated.
When the first true leaf appears, the seedlings pick up, maintaining a distance of 2-3 cm. When 4-5 leaves appear, the pick is repeated, the secondary planting pattern is 5x5. They are transplanted both into separate pots and into individual containers.
10-14 days before transplanting into open ground, seedlings are hardened. The containers are taken out into the fresh air, gradually increasing the time spent outside.
At the beginning of May, seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Usami

Propagation of strawberries by stalons

The disadvantage of this propagation method is that not all varieties of remontant strawberries form mustaches. In addition, you will have to sacrifice the second harvest. Rooting of the mustache is carried out in July-August directly in the garden bed:

During fruiting, the strongest annual bushes with large, even berries are noted.
Furrows are made along the edges of the bed, where the first mustache is laid. The rest are deleted.
After a while, rosettes will appear on them and begin to take root.
The first 2-3 shoots are left, the rest are cut off along with the ends of the mustache. There is no need to separate the young rosettes from the mother bush; they must gain strength.
Next, the shoots are cared for in the same way as the main plant: watered and loosened.
7-10 days before transplantation, the mustache is cut off from the mother bush.
In August, seedlings are planted at a distance of 35 cm. The row spacing is 50 cm. The growth point is located flush with the ground.

Dividing the bush

Divided strawberry bush before planting

To propagate strawberries in this way, you will only need healthy, strong bushes. This is its disadvantage, since this is rare for remontant varieties. The procedure is carried out as follows:

Plants 2–4 years old with developed roots are selected.
Such bushes already have 30–40 shoots, and each of them has an apical bud, several lateral roots and adventitious roots.
Plants are dug up in spring/early autumn, separated into shoots and planted in a permanent bed.
When caring for them, you should ensure daily watering and shading during hot periods.

Video

Remontability is the ability of plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season. Repairability is observed in crops such as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits. In this article we will introduce you to the rules for growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries at different times of the year, how to protect them from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to prune remontant strawberries.

Listen to the article

Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings in the middle zone - at the end of February or early March, in warmer areas - two to three weeks later. Planting seedlings in the ground - in the middle or at the end of May.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
The soil: leveled, loamy or sandy loam, neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
Watering: after planting seedlings - daily, after rooting - once every 2-4 days. In dry spring conditions, the first watering of old bushes is carried out at the end of April, and in May and June another 3-4 waterings are carried out. From August to September, the area is watered 2 times a month, trying to wet the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
Feeding: In just one season, 10-15 fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers is carried out from spring to late autumn. From organics, slurry and chicken manure solution are preferred, from mineral complexes - Kemira Lux, Kristallin or Rastvorin.
Trimming: in the fall, those leaves that may be damaged by pests or infected with harmful plant microorganisms are carefully removed from the bushes. In spring, remove old, overwintered leaves. The mustache can be trimmed at any time.
Reproduction: mustache, dividing the bush.
Pests: aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, any beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds.
Diseases: is affected by gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and Fusarium wilt.

Read more about growing remontant strawberries below.

Remontant strawberry - description

Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during short daylight hours, remontant varieties of the crop form them during long (LSD) or neutral (NSD) daylight hours. Remontant strawberries in open ground produce two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits for the season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them die after bearing fruit.

Sowing remontant strawberries

You can purchase remontant strawberry seedlings at a nursery or garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, growing remontant strawberries from seeds requires that the soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus soil or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with the moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge.

Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with a thin layer of dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed with a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is done in the middle zone at the end of February or beginning of March, and in warmer areas 2-3 weeks earlier.

Caring for remontant strawberry seedlings

Until the seedlings appear, the soil with the crops is kept slightly moist. If the room temperature is maintained at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear within 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with the sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, provide the seedlings with additional lighting so that they do not stretch out. At this stage, seedlings need regular ventilation.

Picking remontant strawberries

In the development phase, the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they are planted in spacious boxes or in separate pots. Transplant the seedlings to the same depth at which they grew before picking. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground, the seedlings are hardened: every day they are taken out for some time to the balcony, terrace or yard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.

Planting remontant strawberries

When to plant remontant strawberries

It is better to grow remontant strawberries in an area where vegetables such as radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard previously grew. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. Choose a site for strawberries that is sunny and level, where water will not stagnate. Soils preferable are loamy and sandy loam with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Sod-podzolic and peaty soil are not suitable for growing remontant strawberries.

Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of return night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to the end of September.

The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - in the fall, and for autumn planting in the spring. Dig up the soil on the site with a pitchfork, clearing the future planting site of weeds and adding a bucket of humus, manure or compost and 5 kg of wood ash per m² to the soil. A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of the drug Kalijfos for each m² of area.

Planting remontant strawberries in spring

Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and row. With the carpet method, seedlings are planted according to a 20x20 cm pattern, and with the row method, a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between seedlings in a row, and 70 cm between rows.

On a cloudy day, make holes in the area, water them and transfer the seedlings into them along with a lump of earth. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and that the hearts are slightly above the surface of the area. Carefully squeeze the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids left in the roots, and water the strawberries.

Planting remontant strawberries in the fall

If you plant remontant strawberries in the spring, they will most likely begin to bear fruit only a year later; moreover, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warm enough for heat-loving remontant varieties to immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to autumn planting of remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to its subtleties.

Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives them time to take root and strengthen for winter without interference such as harmful insects and fungal pathogens. Remontant strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.

Caring for remontant strawberries in spring

Caring for and growing remontant strawberries differs to some extent from cultivating ordinary garden strawberries. The berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach a weight of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of the crop's agricultural technology are met.

After planting strawberries in spring, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust, or cover it with black agrofibre - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will be possible to water the strawberries less often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering them, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, timely removal of weeds from the garden bed, regular fertilizing and protection from diseases and pests.

In early spring, old yellow leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries and ammonium nitrate is added to the soil. The next nitrogen fertilizing is applied at the end of May.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit for the first time in the spring, but it makes sense to sacrifice the spring harvest in order to collect more berries in the fall, especially since spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if, in addition to remontant varieties, you also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove the flower stalks of remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain strength for abundant autumn fruiting and will give you berries of much higher taste.

However, this technique is effective only for annual and biennial bushes. Although, if you take good care of your remontant strawberries and regularly fertilize them, you will be able to pick berries from them twice a season.

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer? After you harvest the first crop, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-blooming, the leaves are cut off, being careful not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are also formed on the rosettes of the mustache, so it is better not to trim the leaves of such strawberries.

Remontant strawberries begin their second fruiting in the summer, in August.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall

Very often, after the second fruiting, it is necessary to plant new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average, with good care, a remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but a lot depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and the composition of the soil.

Watering remontant strawberries

There is a special scheme for moistening beds with strawberries, since the crop has a shallow root system and cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves intensively evaporate moisture. Remontant strawberries, like garden ones, are moistened regularly, but they need moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.

After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then switched to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, provided there is little natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, you need to carry out another 3-4 waterings, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, loosen the soil around the bushes to provide the strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.

We remind you that mulching the bed or covering the area with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in beds with remontant strawberries.

Feeding remontant strawberries

Fertilizing remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions for obtaining high yields and extending the life of plants, since they need a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. NSD varieties are especially dependent on fertilizing. Phosphorus, if it was added in the required quantity before planting, will no longer need to be added to the soil this season; you can mulch the bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per m², or with manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per the same unit of area .

At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one to two percent urea solution, and approximately in the second half of June, during the extension of flower stalks of the second harvest, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken manure or slurry, for which a bucket of manure is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.

In total, from 10 to 15 complex feedings are carried out per season. Fertilize remontant strawberries until late autumn, while their roots are growing, otherwise they will retire weakened and exhausted. For fertilizing, not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers are used, for example, Mortar, Kemiru Lux or Kristallin.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

Actually, there is no point in replanting remontant strawberry bushes, since they are short-lived and usually last no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you how to transplant the resulting daughter rosettes in the section on the propagation of remontant varieties.

But if you still have a need to replant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so replant them as early as possible, before flower stalks appear, and then you will be able to get the first berries after mid-July. If flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them to allow the strawberries to spend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in autumn

After the end of autumn fruiting, you need to carefully remove the leaves from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays next year’s fruit buds. Leaves are removed in order to get rid of possible infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain for the winter. Pruning of remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the area against diseases and pests.

As for the mustache, you can trim it throughout the season, or you can not trim it at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be pruned so that the plantings do not become overgrown, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter rosettes that grow on the mustache, so you cannot trim the mustache, and to prevent the plantings from becoming overgrown, you just need to plant the bushes at a considerable distance from each other. However, on the eve of winter, if you are planning to trim the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also trim the mustache.

Pruning strawberries in remontant spring

In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are trimmed from strawberry bushes, if you did not trim them the previous fall, after which the remontant strawberries are treated against diseases and pests. And it must be said that many gardeners prefer to prune remontant strawberries in the spring.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can you propagate this type of strawberry?

Propagation of remontant strawberries by mustache

If you want to expand your remontant strawberry bed with rooted runners, you'll have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark the strongest and most developed annual bushes, place their first tendrils in grooves made along the side of the bed, and the remaining tendrils will have to be cut off so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will only need to leave the first rosettes. Trim the second-order tendrils, but do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant.

While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. A week before transplanting the rosettes to a permanent place, separate them from the mother plant, and then replant them as described at the beginning of the article.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush

This method of propagating remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. Divide into developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots - by this age the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or autumn, carefully divided into horns, and then planted in a garden bed.

Remontant strawberries in winter

With the onset of autumn, watering the strawberries is gradually reduced, they undergo sanitary pruning, if there is confidence that remontant strawberries should be pruned in the fall, they carry out preventive treatment against diseases and pests, after which they allow the remontant strawberries to survive a couple of frosts and only after that they cover them with non-woven fabric for the winter material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes that are unlikely to bear fruit next season need to be dug up before the first snow.

Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries suffer from the same diseases as ordinary garden ones: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.

Pests of remontant strawberries

The pests most often affecting remontant strawberries are aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as methods for getting rid of them, are described in detail in the article already posted on our website.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

As already mentioned, varieties of remontant strawberries come in two types - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter produce two or three harvests per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form mustaches and those that do not form them, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle zone and Siberia.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region

The best varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:

Aromas– a highly productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and strawberry mite with large, dense, shiny berries of high taste;
Vima Rina– a Dutch day-neutral variety that produces almost no runners, begins bearing fruit in the second half of June and stops forming fruits with the first frost. The berries of this variety are dark red in color, large - weighing up to 75 g, not very dense in consistency, with high taste;
hybrid Tristan- a compact, early-flowering variety that almost does not form a mustache and bears fruit throughout the summer with sweet berries of dark red color and medium size. The flowers of this variety are large, juicy pink;
Garland– one of the best remontant varieties, which has no equal in terms of productivity. In addition, it is highly decorative, since on the bush you can simultaneously see flowers, ovaries, and red sweet fruits weighing about 40 g. Strawberries of this variety are grown both in beds and in vertical cultivation;
Diamond– an American highly productive variety with the best taste characteristics to date. Diamond fruits are dense, large - up to 50 g in weight, shiny, dark red in color. Since the pulp of the berries is light, it is not used for processing. Bushes of this variety are capable of forming mustaches, which greatly facilitates its propagation.

In addition to those described, remontant strawberries for the Moscow region have proven themselves well in the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pican, Roman and others .

Varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia

In the harsh Siberian climate, it is not easy to grow heat-loving plants, and not every strawberry variety can fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here: they produce the first harvest together with ordinary garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:

Queen Elizabeth 2– a winter-hardy variety with early fruiting, the berries of which are bright red, excellent taste, with dense pulp, sometimes reaching a weight of 100-110 g;
Mount Everest- an unpretentious variety in terms of soil composition, resistant to diseases and pests, with powerful, densely leafy bushes, tall peduncles and bright red small berries of a conical shape and good taste. This variety forms mustache only in the first year of growth;
Inexhaustible- a large-fruited, productive variety, bred by crossing the Inexhaustible and Upper Silesia varieties and forming medium-height, slightly spreading bushes with large dark green foliage, on which large, blunt-pointed shiny berries of excellent taste ripen. The pulp of the berries of this variety is light pink. The variety produces few whiskers and is also susceptible to powdery mildew;
Russian size– a large-fruited hybrid variety, resistant to frost and disease, with juicy berries of excellent taste;
Ada– a high-yielding variety of German selection, capable of forming a large number of mustaches. The berries are bright red, medium in size, shiny, elongated-conical, with an average weight of 5-6 g. The pulp is white with a red core, loose, with a pleasant sour-sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to strawberry mite and white leaf spot;
Diva- also a hybrid variety with powerful bushes, tall peduncles and bright red sweet berries.

In order to determine which variety of remontant strawberries is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others - the taste, and still others - the ability to form mustaches, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description of the different varieties, and you decide for yourself which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberries:

Brighton- a beardless variety of NSD, bred by American breeders. In protected ground conditions, this strawberry bears fruit for up to 10 months a year, and in open ground - from spring to late autumn. The fruits of this variety, red, shiny, sweet and sour in taste, reach a weight of 50 g. During cold weather they become larger and elongated. The variety is distinguished by its cold resistance, as well as resistance to diseases and pests;
Crimean remontant– one of the best DSD varieties of Ukrainian selection – high-yielding, continuously bearing fruit from the end of May to October. The berries of this variety are smooth, juicy, large, dark red in color, with the aroma of wild strawberries. The advantages of the variety are also high decorativeness, winter hardiness, resistance to strawberry mites and diseases. The harvest is formed both on bushes and on rosettes;
Autumn fun- one of the first DSD varieties of Soviet selection, bearing fruit twice a season. The juicy fruits of this variety weigh 20 g, have dense pulp and an excellent dessert taste. The variety produces mustaches and is resistant to nematodes, strawberry mites and fungal diseases;
Novel- a hybrid variety NSD, which differs from others in its high decorativeness due to pink flowers on long peduncles, effectively standing out against the background of lush green leaves. Strawberries bear fruit in protected soil with proper care for up to 10 months a year. The fruits are smooth, weighing up to 25 g, excellent taste and pleasant aroma;
San Rival– a variety of French selection with medium yield. The first berries of the harvest are irregularly shaped, ribbed, comb-shaped. Subsequently, the fruits develop of medium size, round, without a neck, shiny and pubescent. The taste of the berries is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender. The advantage of the variety is also the ability to form a large number of whiskers, which greatly facilitates the cultivation of strawberries;
Selva- a variety of American selection, bred by crossing the Brighton, Pajero and Tufts varieties. The bushes are vigorous, with large leaves, but compact. The berries are large, light red, elastic, shiny, cone-shaped, with dense juicy pulp, but have a rustic taste and inexpressive aroma. The variety is resistant to diseases of roots and leaves, but is not frost-resistant;
Herzberg Triumph- a winter-hardy variety that forms many mustaches, bred by German breeders, with dark red, shiny truncated-conical small berries weighing up to 6.5 g with dense, but tender and juicy pulp with a sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to angular and white spots;
Yellow miracle- a beardless variety for lovers of curiosities. This is a disease- and pest-resistant yellow remontant strawberry with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 3 g, elongated-conical in shape, growing on compact bushes up to 25 cm high. The variety is not particularly fragrant.

Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:

Albion– a Californian variety resistant to weather stress, anthracnose, late blight, rot and wilt with dark red, large shiny conical fruits, a unique strong aroma and intense sweet taste. The fruits ripen well to the very tip. Young leaves have a strong shine;
Gigantella Maxi– a Dutch variety with very large berries, weighing up to 100 g;
Crown– also a Dutch variety with aromatic red fruits of excellent taste that tolerate transportation well;
Kimberly– a variety with sweet red berries that taste like caramel;
Galya Chiv– a new highly productive Italian large-fruited variety – the average weight of bright red fruits, characterized by high sugar content, is 45 g;
Lyubava (or Lyubasha)- unpretentious, high-yielding and the most winter-hardy of all remontant varieties with small dark red oval-rhombic berries weighing 20-30 g, with an intense taste and aroma. This strawberry produces berries both on bushes and on rosettes, so it is used for vertical growing;
Portola- a high-yielding variety bred in 2009 in California. Its large, shiny, regularly conical-shaped fruits are similar to Albion berries, but slightly lighter and have a more harmonious taste, practically devoid of acid. Fruit weight is about 30 g. The variety can be grown both in protected and open ground. The disadvantages of the variety are instability to fungal and viral diseases;

After this article they usually read

While we are looking forward to the strawberry season, we are saddened to watch it gradually come to an end. Preparations, jams and compotes have been made, strawberries have been frozen in freezers, whole and in the form of smoothies, but nothing compares to the taste of fresh aromatic berries.

This is a photo of strawberries at the end of August!

If an ordinary strawberry forms a peduncle, then another, lays buds, blooms and bears fruit, then the remontant one “knows how” to simultaneously lay peduncles, bloom and bear fruit.

In this case, it is divided into two types:

Some varieties bloom and bear fruit in waves (first, second, third) with short breaks.
Other varieties bloom and bear fruit continuously. At the same time, laying flower stalks, delighting with flowers and growing crops, strawberries delight them until late autumn, and sometimes, right with flowers and green berries, they go under the snow.

These properties can be inherent in the culture by nature, or they can be bred by breeders as a result of painstaking work.

Tricks

The fruiting period of remontant strawberries can be adjusted by removing flower stalks.

It is considered a trick of gardeners that during the period of mass production of strawberries (early, middle and late varieties), the peduncles of remontant ones are plucked out, thereby postponing fruiting to the period when the main shaft has already been harvested.

If ordinary varieties produce their harvest in 3–4 weeks, then the remontant variety stretches it out for 3–4 months, but this does not mean at all that the crop yield will be 3–4 times higher than the usual one.

However, in order to systematically distribute the harvest over time, it is necessary to distribute nutrients, which is why the technological process for obtaining berries is somewhat different than when growing varieties of short daylight hours.

Site selection and preparation

Red beets are a suitable predecessor for remontant strawberries.

Among the predecessors, it is better to give preference to green crops, such as lettuce, radishes, beets, etc. After nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants), you cannot plant a bed with strawberries.

The site is chosen to be sunny and level, without stagnant water. In southern latitudes, where heating is very intense, you can choose openwork shade under the trees.

It is better to choose loam or sandy loam soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

Garlic is often planted in a strawberry bed.

Autumn planting

For autumn planting the site is prepared in the spring, for spring planting in the autumn.

This will allow the soil to “mature” and balance, and the microflora will make all nutrients available for immediate absorption by the root system.

We scatter rotted manure around the site (a bucket per m2), fresh compost, stove ash (kilogram per m2), 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate per m2, and carefully dig everything up while freeing the area from weeds.

Spring planting

The bed is dug up in advance, fertilized and leveled, so that later you can simply make holes with a scoop and plant strawberry seedlings.

Spring plantings can begin from mid-May, and autumn plantings from late August to mid-September. The main condition for the success of the event will be high humidity: fog, drizzling rain, thick clouds - the best weather conditions for planting strawberry seedlings.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Freshly planted strawberries on our site.

When planning a garden bed on open ground, you need to decide in advance on the growing method.

Landings can be carried out:

in rows. In this case, we maintain 20–25 cm, and 60–70 between rows;
carpet. With this method, a plot of 20–25x20–25 cm is planted.

Landing scheme.

If natural precipitation is rare in your region, consider the possibility of drip irrigation in advance. The “drop” system can be laid both before and after planting.

Since remontant strawberries are constantly selected, it is better to give preference, for convenience. ordinary method .
so that the roots are straightened and the middle is above the soil surface after watering. If the water has pulled down a little, you can lift the bush and then water it.
If the plot is planted in the spring, then by autumn you will be able to enjoy the first harvest. When planting in autumn, next season, starting in summer, you will be provided with aromatic berries.

Care

Mulching makes it easier to care for strawberries and keeps the berries clean.

Remontant strawberries include:

watering;
loosening;

Spring plantings will require more attention than autumn plantings. A rapid increase in temperature does not promote rooting, so seedlings must be carefully protected from overheating.

Constant moisture under the bushes will make it possible to grow the root system and take root well. To prevent excessive evaporation, it is better to mulch the areas under the bushes. For this purpose, you can use straw, sawdust or agrofibre.

When planting in autumn, nature itself carefully looks after the strawberry rosettes and no additional attention is required.

Feeding

Strawberries absorb liquid fertilizers faster.

Strawberries begin their growing season early. The root system is located shallow, and warming up the upper layers of the soil already promotes the germination of green shoots. During this planting period. To do this, dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons of ammonium nitrate and pour under each bush 200–250 g .

The second feeding should be done a little later, during the period when the flower stalks begin to extend. Fertilize during this period with the same mineral fertilizers and in the same doses.

After the first fruiting, nutrients were removed, but strawberry bushes no longer needed nitrogen fertilizers for the growth of vegetative mass, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers needed to be replenished.

Features of remontant strawberries

If ordinary strawberries can use stove ash, then remontant strawberries require quick minerals during the fruiting period that will help renew fruiting buds.

For this purpose, you can use potassium sulfate and superphosphate. There is no point in scattering dry granules under bushes. Fertilizers must act immediately and are best dissolved.

Dissolve 50 g of the mentioned fertilizers in a bucket of water and add them under each bush in a volume of 200–250 ml.

Pre-irrigation

Drip irrigation of strawberries.

Fertilizing strawberries cannot be done without prior irrigation. Only thorough watering will help absorb nutrients and start the renewal mechanism.

Third feeding

At the end of summer, remontant strawberries are fed with wood ash.

The third feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be carried out in late August - early September, and in late autumn 10-15 g of stove ash can be added under the bushes. Mineral substances left over from burning plant residues contain a fairly wide range of chemical elements useful for strawberries.

Autumn rains and meltwater will bring minerals to the root system, and they will be fully available by the next season.

Pork, horse, cow ripened humus an obligatory component of fertilizing . You can spread it out between the rows in the fall. One bucket will be enough per m2. If such organic matter is not available, then you need to use compost; its beneficial microflora has already made the plant residues digestible and will continue to work under the bushes.

Trimming

In early spring, old leaves are removed from the bushes.

Trimming green foliage on remontant strawberries is not practiced, but in the spring, it is necessary to carefully trim off old, last year’s foliage, thus cleaning the garden bed.

Conclusion

A remontant strawberry plantation does not last long. After using it for 2-3 years, grow seedlings and plant the next row in a new place. In this case, your strawberries will be especially productive and tasty.

Video about the features of caring for remontant strawberries

Strawberries are perennial herbaceous plants that form a kind of receptacle, which we call a berry. On top of the berry there are seeds, which are considered the true botanical fruits of the plant.
Depending on the variety, the bush can bear fruit for different periods of time. Gardeners most often use garden strawberries, which bear fruit within one month in the summer. Remontant strawberries are able to bear fruit throughout the entire season from early spring to late autumn.

How to care for berry beds depends on the variety. Remontant strawberries bloom throughout the season, which requires special feeding conditions, otherwise the number and size of the berries will not meet the gardener’s expectations.

Features of caring for remontant strawberries

The ability to bloom and produce berries throughout the season is due to the peculiarity of the buds from which the inflorescences are formed. They develop in the same year in which they are formed, which distinguishes the remontant variety from other types of strawberries.
Remontant strawberries are more sensitive to the quality and moisture of the soil, but their cultivation is advisable for obtaining berries throughout the season. Caring for strawberry bushes consists of several stages.

Mulching. Carrying out the procedure is especially important when caring for remontant strawberries; this will preserve additional moisture in the soil and prevent the bushes from drying out. Sawdust or straw can be used as mulch. The mulch is laid out around the strawberry bushes and along the rows in a layer of 5-7 cm.
Watering. Strawberries are very sensitive to lack of moisture, so it is recommended to regularly water the rows to prevent the bushes from drying out.
Loosening. You need to loosen the row spacing, this is necessary for free air circulation at the roots. In parallel with loosening, it is advisable to hill up the bushes, this is due to the fact that during the growth process the roots can come to the surface of the soil and dry out.
Weed removal. Weeds draw nutrients and moisture from the soil, clog the strawberry roots, as a result of which the plant is unable to grow and bear fruit normally.
Fertilizer. For this purpose, mineral and organic fertilizers are used. The first fertilizing of the soil is carried out during preparation and digging of the soil before planting. The main fertilization is carried out when preparing the bed for winter in the fall. Spring fertilization is carried out only if it was not possible to fertilize in the fall.
Removing a mustache. This does not apply to varieties that do not form tendrils and are propagated by seeds or by dividing the bush.
Circumcision.
Preparing for winter.

Pruning strawberry bushes

Many gardeners argue about the advisability of this procedure. Some argue that it is impossible to cut off the leaves because the bush loses nutrients obtained through the process of photosynthesis. But there are a number of arguments in favor of pruning strawberry bushes.

Advantage of Circumcision

Hive update. By pruning, old and damaged leaves are removed, this allows new shoots to develop, which is difficult in the presence of old leaves. After pruning the bushes, the leaves quickly recover, so there is no danger to the plant.
Pest and fungal disease control. Rust and other fungi multiply on the surface of leaves and spread to nearby leaves, causing damage to healthy leaves and neighboring plants. When removing cut parts of bushes from the garden bed, they will not be a source of infection of healthy parts of the plant.
Wintering is better tolerated. Renewed leaves allow the bush to better cope with wintering.
Possibility of using one bush for a longer time. Typically, bushes are used for harvesting for 3-4 years; if the bushes are regularly pruned, their service life can be increased to 5-6 years.
The berries are larger. This is due to the fact that the bush is regularly updated.

Circumcision technique

Garden strawberries are pruned in August; leaves cannot be pruned in late autumn. This is due to the fact that the plant needs to have time to put out fresh leaves before the first frost in order to survive the winter.
Remontant varieties bloom throughout the season almost until the first frost, so you need to prune it in July, this will allow you to get several more harvests from the plant before the onset of winter after pruning. Remontant varieties of strawberries cannot be pruned after harvesting the last harvest; the bushes will not survive the winter.
Pruning is done with a sharp knife or pruning shears; tearing off leaves and tendrils by hand can damage the integrity of the bush.
It is forbidden to trim the bush to the very root.
Leaves should be removed from the garden after pruning. Some gardeners use it as mulch, but this can be dangerous because fungi will transfer from cut bushes to new leaves and re-infect the plant. It is best to burn the leaves that are left after trimming rather than using them to fill a compost bin. The resulting compost may contain pathogens that will again spread throughout the area.

Preparing for winter

Strawberries for the winter should be prepared in the fall. The entire process of preparing for winter consists of several stages, the implementation of which will allow the plant to survive the winter normally.

The last preparatory measures before the winter period are carried out in October, at this time fertilizers are applied, and if necessary, the beds with strawberries can be additionally insulated. The last harvest of remontant strawberries is harvested in October and they are also prepared for the onset of winter.

Reduce watering. Stopping watering will signal the plant that the growing season has stopped. The last watering should be carried out no later than mid-October after applying fertilizer. You can stop watering garden strawberries in early September.
Bush pruning.
Insulation. Typically, strawberry bushes survive the winter normally without the use of a covering, but in severe frosts with low precipitation, the strawberries should be insulated. If there is a small layer of snow, it can be raked onto the bush, thereby creating a natural fur coat. In the complete absence of snow, additional insulation is required. To do this, dry leaves or a manure-straw mixture are poured onto the bed in an even layer. The use of such materials for insulation is convenient because in the spring there is no need to remove them, and the material itself serves as an excellent fertilizer.
Protecting flowers from frost. Remontant strawberries can bloom for a long time, this can lead to the flowers being damaged during night frosts, which will also affect the condition of the bush. To prevent this process, it is recommended to pick off flowers after frost or use methods to preserve heat around the bush. For this, a film can be used to cover the plants at night and remove them in the morning. You can also place buckets of water in the spaces between the rows, this will also prevent damage to the flowers.

To get the best harvest, you should know how to properly prepare strawberries for winter. In climatic conditions in which there is little precipitation, even mild frosts can be destructive for the bushes, so they should be additionally insulated. Particular attention should be paid to remontant varieties of strawberries, this is due to the fact that the plant is severely depleted during the growing season due to constant flowering and formation of berries; such bushes are not able to cope with the cold on their own.

Preparing a strawberry bed for winter must be done correctly, then the harvest of berries next season will please the gardener with the quality and quantity of the harvest.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are in demand among all lovers of this plant. This is due to the ability to obtain several harvests per year from one bush. The first harvest in this case will ripen in July. The largest harvest can be obtained at the end of summer - it is at this time that from 60 to 90% of the berries fall. Such strawberries are easily grown on the balcony, in pots and can, with proper care, bear fruit all year round at home.

What are remontant strawberries and how are they different from others?

Remontability is the ability of some plants to bloom and produce crops several times a year. After the first ripening of the fruits, flower buds are formed again. Such bushes often have a weaker leaf system, but the berries are very large.

Peculiarities! If the second harvest is more important, it is worth sacrificing the first. To do this, it is enough to trim the first flower stalks. This technique will preserve the bush’s ability to produce abundant fruit at the end of summer.

Remontant strawberries are grown in greenhouses, and even on the balcony. This way you can get abundant and constant fruiting even from 2 - 3 bushes growing in pots.

Features of remontant garden strawberries

Fruits are set not only on mother plants, but also on young plants;
Most varieties are large-fruited (all fruits are from 50 to 100 grams);
Rapid aging of bushes;
Some large-fruited varieties may have smaller berries next year.

To ensure constant fruiting throughout the season, it is worth combining remontant and regular varieties.

Photo of remontant strawberries

Queen Elizabeth 2

Alexandri

Baron Solemacher

Types of remontant strawberries

The repairability of garden strawberries directly depends on the time when buds are laid on the bushes. More precisely, on the length of daylight hours. In most varieties, buds are laid in the fall. At this time, daylight hours are shortened. In remontant varieties, flower buds are formed regardless of the length of daylight hours. In the same year, by the end of summer, the bushes bear fruit for the second time.

Reference! Remontant strawberries form flower buds even during neutral daylight hours. These are the so-called NSD varieties.

For remontant varieties, the stages of care should be calculated for a modified growing season.

Long daylight hours

Remontant long-day strawberries lay flower buds when the daylight hours are 16 hours.

This occurs in mid-May - early June. At this time, the formation of the ovary occurs simultaneously.

This is the kind of strawberry that can produce 2 harvests. The first fruiting occurs in June, and the second at the end of summer.

Attention! DSD varieties during the second harvest are capable of producing up to 90% of the annual harvest. This is possible if the bushes are mature and strong.

It's worth remembering that With each subsequent season, plant productivity decreases. To do this, you will need to frequently update the bushes to be young and strong.

Short daylight hours

These are varieties in which flower buds are formed in the fall. This allows you to harvest early fruits as early as June. It is easy to propagate because mature bushes have many tendrils. But, as a rule, they are less common than remontant varieties.

With and without mustaches

According to the method of propagation, remontant strawberries are divided into:

With a mustache;
Without mustache (or mustacheless varieties).

The most convenient way to propagate strawberries is with a mustache. It begins to produce a harvest within a few months after planting. Beardless strawberries are less common because they can reproduce exclusively by seeds.

Peculiarities! Bearded varieties are more resistant to diseases and insects. They look neat in the garden because they don’t grow.

Landing

Features of growing remontant varieties:

For planting, it is best to choose open, sunny areas;
Fertile, well-loosened soil.

It is grown by pre-sowing seedlings. This is done in February or early March. In May, after the risk of late frosts disappears, the stronger seedlings can be planted in open ground.

Peculiarities! To get a good harvest, the land on the site needs to be prepared in the fall. Mineral and organic fertilizers are added to the soil and then dug deep.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

To preserve the beneficial properties of remontant strawberry varieties for as long as possible, propagation by mustache is best suited. But this is not always possible, since some varieties do not have a mustache at all. The only way to get young plants is to grow seedlings.

Seeds

This is the most difficult way to grow remontant strawberries. But it allows you to get a large number of young and healthy bushes.

In the case of alpine, or beardless garden strawberries, this is practically the only method of propagation.

To propagate by seeds, it is worth collecting the largest and sweetest berries of the variety you like. From them you can get seeds, which are planted for seedlings in late February or early March.

Usami

Propagation by tendrils produces many young plants throughout the season.

This is especially important for remontant varieties that quickly age and require replacement.

To do this, you need to carefully observe the appearance of sockets. Only 2 - 3 of them are left on the mustache, as close as possible to the mother bush.

Attention! Weak tendrils need to be removed promptly, as they weaken an actively fruiting plant.

In other ways

There is another method of vegetative propagation of remontant strawberries. This could be dividing bushes. It is used only when there is an urgent need to obtain seed. For propagation, only strong and healthy bushes can be used.

Attention! This method of propagation is not suitable for all remontant varieties.

Care

Abundant fruiting twice a season greatly exhausts the bushes. Because of this, plants need especially careful care. It needs to start in early spring, after the snow has melted. You need to remove the old mulch and carefully inspect the beds. If there are exposed fibrous roots, they need to be spudded. Then loosen the soil in the area and mulch it with small sawdust.

Watering

Garden strawberries need abundant watering throughout the growing season.

The top layer of soil must be kept constantly moist, without dried soil “crust”.

It is best to pour water into the grooves between the rows. Or you can water the plants with a hose, simulating rain.

Transfer

Replanting in autumn is especially important for large-fruited varieties.

After 1 - 2 years, depletion occurs, as a result of which the berries become smaller. Frequently moving to a new area will also prevent pests living in the soil from accumulating.

Peculiarities: It is advisable to carry out the transplant before the beginning of September. This will allow the bushes to fully prepare for winter.

For this:

Dig the area to the depth of a spade bayonet, remove all roots of weeds;
Add 1 bucket of humus and 30 grams of phosphorus fertilizer per square meter to the ground;
Harrow with a rake and leave the area for 14 days;
Mark the area, then dig holes up to 20 centimeters deep;
Transfer the plants into the holes using the transshipment method and cover with soil;
Mulch the bed with sawdust.

After this, the bed with the transplanted plants is watered abundantly.

Top dressing

Bushes of remontant varieties are greatly weakened by abundant fruiting during the season. To correct the situation, liquid fertilizer is used:

Urea;
Bird droppings;
Slurry.

It is applied in early June, before flowering. The dosage of the drug is 10 liters per 1 square meter.

Wintering

Preparation for winter includes:

Trimming dry leaves and tendrils;
Mulching with straw, peat or dry leaves.

DSD varieties are often exposed to early frosts. This leads to the loss of part of the harvest. If there is a risk of early cooling in September, they are grown under covering material. It is best to use spunbond for this. The bushes can be watered without removing the cover.

Features of growing in open ground

Remontant strawberries have their own special agrotechnical conditions:

Particular sensitivity to soil quality and watering;
The growth cycle of remontant varieties is a maximum of 2-3 years;
The best neighbors for strawberries are carrots, garlic, peas, lettuce, radishes and beans.

It is not advisable to plant remontant varieties of garden strawberries next to potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers.

Peculiarities! Garlic planted between the strawberry beds will protect the crop from slugs or snails.

Popular varieties

The most common varieties of remontant strawberries:

Albion. Tolerant to diseases, temperature changes and drought. The bright red, oblong berries weigh up to 60 grams;
Lyubava. Small bushes with a lot of tendrils. Small bright red berries can form not only on adult, mother bushes. Large rosettes also bear fruit;
. Large-fruited variety with small mustaches. Raspberry-red berries have juicy pulp and a sweet and sour taste;
Vima Rina. Small bushes with light green leaves. The berries are bright red and conical in shape.
Mahern. Spreading bushes with small berries. The fruits are small and red. The pulp is pale pink, with a dessert taste.

There are also hybrid varieties designed for growing in greenhouses or on the balcony.

Why doesn't it bloom or bear fruit?

But what if the strawberries don’t bear fruit? These may be the following reasons:

Degeneration of plants. After a maximum of 3 years, the plants stop blooming. This leads to the need to renew the bushes every 2 - 3 years.
Too late transplanting into open ground in the fall. This leads to the fact that the plant does not have time to adapt. Next year the flowering will be very weak and the berries will be small;
Excessive penetration into the ground during planting. This leads to a sharp decrease in the number of berries;
Lack of nitrogenous compounds. Leads to weakening of leaves. Effective prevention in this case is regular watering with an aqueous solution of ammonia;
Lack of sunlight. This leads to weakening of the bushes, which means a decrease in yield.

Another common reason is late frosts in May. To avoid this trouble, you need to cover the beds with film or spunbond.

Strawberries on the balcony and windowsill all year round

Remontant varieties are best suited for growing on the balcony.

This allows you to get a large harvest from 2 - 3 bushes. Climbing and large-fruited varieties are ideal for this.

They not only bear fruit abundantly, but also look good. Growing remontant strawberries consists of the following stages:

Sowing seeds for seedlings. To do this, you can use a ready-made nutrient mixture or prepare it yourself. Seeds are sown in boxes with it. After 2–3 leaves appear, the seedlings are planted.
Planting in a permanent place. Strong seedlings are transplanted into hanging pots, baskets or boxes.

Care is almost the same as in open ground. In October - November, flower pots or baskets can be left on a glassed, warm balcony. In the self-care program, only moderate watering is required; no feeding is necessary. This will provide the plant with adequate rest during the dormant period and a good harvest for the next year.

Diseases and pests

The most common diseases of garden strawberries:

Powdery mildew;
Black rot;
Gray and white rot;
Root rot;
Withering;
Mottling;
Mosaic.

Another problem is insects:

The best control measure is timely prevention.

It includes regularly replanting bushes and planting plants with an unpleasant odor for insects next to the beds. Severely affected plants are also removed to prevent the problem from spreading.

Conclusion

Remontant strawberries are able to bear fruit throughout the season - from May to October. But this pace greatly weakens the bushes, which is why these varieties require especially careful care. The life cycle of remontant bushes is quite short. It does not exceed 2–3 years, and some bushes die immediately after harvest.

Useful video

Find out more about remontant strawberry varieties from the video below: