How to cut raspberries in autumn. Spring and autumn raspberry pruning. Care for raspberries after pruning

Raspberry is a berry crop that is widespread in central Russia. The fruiting season is from June to early July. To achieve a rich harvest, you need to take into account a number of nuances, the main of which is pruning raspberries in the fall.

Autumn pruning is carried out for three reasons:

in raspberries, only shoots no older than two years old bear fruit. Therefore, old branches can be removed under the root. If this is not done, the raspberry turns into dense thickets and produces rare small berries.
remontant raspberries lose a lot of strength during fruiting, which is not limited to one or two months. In order for the bushes to have a sufficient supply of nutrients for the crop by next year, it is necessary to rid the root system of excess ground parts before the onset of winter cold. Thanks to this, the roots do not waste juices in vain, accumulating useful elements.
pruning will get rid of disease-causing fungal spores and pests that live on wood. If you do everything right, then in the spring you can expect a powerful wave of growth.

Cutting technique

Raspberry pruning is carried out from September to early November, or shortly before frost, if winter promises to be early. Sometimes there are recommendations to start this immediately after the last harvest. For remontant raspberries, this is true, that is, already in early September, you can start working. But you are allowed to do it later. The main thing is to be in time before the cold weather.

The technique is simple and consists of the following steps:

With the help of a sharp pruner, weak, diseased, thin, old shoots and those that clearly thicken the plantings are first removed under the root.
There should be some space between the branches: tight interlacing of trunks is unacceptable. The optimal number of shoots that can be left on one bush is 8-10 pieces.
All fallen raspberry leaves and broken knots are removed with a rake. Unripened (not having time to woody) branches are shortened. They leave strong annual lignified tops. All plant debris is raked and burned.
After that, they begin to trim the trunks that have successfully passed a rigorous selection.

What height to cut?

The height to which the raspberries are cut depends on the age of the shoots and the strength of their growth. Biennial stems are removed at the root. One-year tops are shortened by 30-80%. Moreover, the more powerful the growth force of this variety, the more they are cut off. The approximate height of the cut shoot should be 1-1.4 meters. Some varieties (Indian Summer-2, Penguin, Hercules, Brilliantovaya) bloom and bear fruit extremely profusely in the first year. They should be cut out completely: young shoots will grow from the roots in spring.

The remaining leaves are removed from each branch with secateurs, which are immediately sent to the fire or at least to the compost pit at a decent distance from the raspberries.

In the southern regions, double pruning is practiced, which is carried out in two stages. In the first year, at the very beginning of June, when annual tops reach a height of 80-100 cm, they cut off the tops by about 15 cm. As a result, branches of the second order begin to grow actively. In the late spring of next year, when the leaves bloom, these side shoots are also shortened by 15 cm. In June, they will give a bountiful harvest and will delight the gardener with berries until October.

Important! After completing the pruning, you can treat the remaining ground parts with a solution of phytosporin or iron sulfate to destroy the pathogenic environment on the wood.

Necessary tools for pruning raspberries

There are no trifles in this case. And one of the factors that should not be neglected is the sharpness of the secateurs. It is more convenient to use special scissors for prickly bushes, which have longer handles. Sometimes it happens that a thick shoot cannot be cut evenly with a secateurs: it seems to be crushed between the blades. For such cases, in order to align the cuts, you need to have a sharp razor or garden knife-blade.

Another type of secateurs is a pruner. It is unlikely to be needed to work with raspberry bushes, unless we are talking about neglected plantings, where there are already three-year-old trunks.

You will also need a rake to rake not only the prickly cut branches, but also all the fallen leaves. In this environment, pests and pathogenic spores safely overwinter, so the collected organic matter must be burned.

Important! Blunt instruments leave burrs and irregularities on cuts, which are at high risk of fungal infections.

Care for raspberries after pruning

After pruning, raspberries need little care, which is as follows:

Bushes should be watered thoroughly, as in winter the soil must nourish the stems.
To prevent freezing of the remaining raspberry vine, especially remontant, it is recommended to cover it for the winter.
So that moisture does not evaporate, the soil around the shrub must be mulched. This event will also protect the root system from freezing, especially if the winter is not snowy.
Feeding raspberries is very important after pruning, as during the winter period it should not only rest, but also gain strength.

What and how to properly feed raspberries will be considered in the next section.

How to feed raspberries after the procedure?

How to feed raspberries after pruning depends on the availability of organic fertilizers. Bird droppings and manure are what organic raspberries love. But in their absence, mineral fertilizers can be used.

Common types of dressings

Name of top dressing	Prescription or dosage	Feeding features
Chicken manure is the perfect food	It is not used in its pure form. It is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:30	You can mix manure with compost in a one to one ratio, add dry fallen tree leaves and peat. The resulting mixture is applied to the top layer of soil around the raspberries to a depth of 10 cm, spending 10 kg per 1 sq. meter.
Manure	They are introduced into the top layer of soil at the rate of 6 kg per 1 sq. meter	Shortly after surface digging, it will begin to decompose, releasing heat throughout the fall and winter. This reduces the risk of freezing.
Monophosphate (mineral fertilizer)	They are applied to the surface layer of the earth in the amount of 30-40 grams per bush.	In autumn, after pruning, the plant needs phosphorus and potassium. One of the best options is monophosphate, containing about half the mass fraction of phosphorus and a third of potassium.
mineral complex	A solution made up of 50-60 grams of superphosphate, 35-40 grams of potassium nitrate or potassium magnesia, a few teaspoons of wood ash.	The dosage depends on the volume of the bush, the larger it is, the more fertilizer it needs. But it should be remembered that you can not violate the instructions for use indicated on the package. An overdose can lead to inhibition of the bush or even its drying.
Peat	In the immediate vicinity of shrubs, the depth of digging should not exceed 10 cm. Between bushes and rows, you can go deep up to 20 cm.	It has a positive effect on productivity. It makes the soil lighter and more breathable. The main thing is not to damage the root system with a shovel.
siderates	If green manure was planted between the bushes in the summer, then in the fall they are mowed, and the soil is dug up shallowly.

Important! You should not fertilize raspberries with nitrogen fertilizers, as this will cause the growth of young shoots, which is highly undesirable on the eve of winter.

Pruning remontant raspberries in the fall and subsequent care

Pruning remontant raspberries does not require much professionalism. It is only important to have a sharp tool and know the technology. The correct implementation of all autumn procedures will allow you to get unprecedented harvests that owners of ordinary varieties could not even think of.

If the climate in the region where remontant raspberries grow is harsh (the latitudes of Moscow and to the north), it makes sense to cover it for the winter. You can do this at the end of autumn, shortly before the winter cold snap. If ordinary pruning was carried out, then the remaining branches are wound into bundles and bent to the ground with a wire. Thanks to this, snow lingers between them in winter, which protects the bushes from freezing. In the most northern and coldest regions (St. Petersburg, Siberia), you can cover the bushes with a tarpaulin, but at the same time make sure that no ice crust forms on the surface of the material in winter. If this still happens, the ice is broken so that it does not interfere with ventilation. Remove shelters in April or early May.

Remontant varieties of any crop require a little more attention than ordinary ones. Simply removing shoots is not enough! In order for the plant to gain strength over the winter and give powerful young stems in the spring, you need to correctly carry out the procedure, fertilize, water the bushes abundantly, cultivate and mulch the soil, and cover the raspberries for the winter in cold climatic zones.

Raspberries are familiar to all of us since childhood. This delicious delicacy can be found in almost every garden, as adults and children love raspberries. This is a plant with the presence of annual and biennial shoots. Usually raspberries are low shrubs that have a well-developed root system. It is common for a berry plant to bring good yields, and in order to ensure their stability, it must be borne in mind that raspberries need to be properly looked after.

Raspberries rarely get sick, especially if planted in the right place. The condition of the soil will mainly influence the further development of the raspberry. The earth must have enough nutrients to provide plants throughout each year, then raspberries will always bring a bountiful harvest.

Why prune raspberries

There are such situations that when planting the same variety in different summer cottages, their owners observe completely different fruiting. When the raspberry looks outwardly healthy, but does not bring berries, then the reason for this may be the incorrect formation of the shoots. Experienced gardeners know that the most important step in processing raspberries is pruning. This type of work is not carried out in one sitting, but seasonally: in autumn, spring and summer. As a result of not allowing the raspberry to grow freely, it simply turns into a wild plant. Of course, the planting of bushes must be corrected, leaving only strong and healthy shoots. Nevertheless, the natural growth of this culture occurs due to the rapid development of the root system, which tends to capture neighboring territories. Due to such aggressive natural reproduction, plants spend a lot of energy, all useful reserves are spent on creating new shoots. For this reason, flowering stops in mature bushes, as there is not enough energy. If the raspberries are not pruned in the fall, up to twenty new root shoots can grow from one bush.

In remontant raspberry bushes, berries may appear already in the first season after planting. Usually, flower buds tend to appear on these plants after the second year of life. This happens in the vast majority of raspberry varieties. Therefore, after the expiration of the two-year period of growth of the bushes, their shoots must be cut. Thus, gardeners leave new shoots that originate from powerful roots. Let us consider in more detail what the density of raspberry rows affects:

With the assumption of a strong growth of shoots, the raspberry crop not only thins out, but also becomes smaller.
The thicker the bushes grow, the more foci of plant diseases can occur, as favorable conditions are created for the reproduction of insects and the attraction of other pests.
The berries of varietal and remontant raspberries are significantly different in taste from those that grow in thinned raspberries.
If you do not prune raspberries on time, then there is a chance of losing not only new small shoots during the winter period, but also beautiful healthy shoots. This often happens as a result of an incorrect distribution of the movement of juice, which, when the bushes grow, is directed to the development of offspring, and not to saturate the fruiting shoots. Because of this, they can freeze slightly along with the root processes.

As can be seen from the above reasons, raspberry pruning is a must-have for every gardener. If the processing of plants is carried out on time and correctly, then you will inevitably receive an excellent stable harvest from raspberries in the form of high-quality berries.

Autumn and spring pruning of raspberry shoots provide for the stimulation of the growth of fruit-bearing bushes, on which flower buds will be laid in the future. Removing old and weak shoots in the best way affects the successful development of your raspberry, as the health of the plantation as a whole is maintained.

Features of summer pruning of raspberry shoots

As you know, the aerial part of this culture bears fruit for two years. With such a development cycle, it is not surprising that the plant tends to grow so aggressively and quickly with root shoots over the territory. Pruning, as a type of garden work, although also aimed at stimulating the growth of new bushes, but at the same time it provides for a healthy renewal of the raspberries. It becomes cleaner on the site, which means that this place attracts less pests and insects, raspberries stop hurting. Agrotechnics for pruning different varieties of raspberries may have some differences. Most often, the processing of bushes is carried out from September to October, or in the summer.

Pruning summer raspberries

When planting summer varieties of raspberries, the stem should be cut no more than twenty-five centimeters from the soil level. On the remaining stumps, the flowers are also cut off, because in the first year there will be no berries yet. Throughout the summer season, new shoots will appear on the site, which must be thinned out, leaving only strong shoots. During this period, it is important to maintain raspberry stems up to a height of twenty-five centimeters.

Next year you will be able to see a number of beautiful powerful shoots. For them, they usually construct a support with a wire stretch, on which the stems are tied. The wire of the topmost row should be about one and a half meters above the ground. Make the lower part of the stretch at a distance of ten centimeters from the soil level. After harvesting, young shoots with an optimally selected distance will be tied to the lower wire. Pruning of such shoots is done as close to the ground as possible.

Berries of summer varieties of raspberries are very popular with gardeners. In most cases, with proper care from raspberries, you can harvest a tasty and plentiful harvest. The longer the stem, the more lateral branches can be located on it, on which berries grow.

Pruning autumn raspberry varieties in summer

Autumn berries are harvested from the stem tops of lateral shoots. Raspberry pruning of these varieties is carried out in early spring. When processing bushes, all stems should be removed, since this procedure is more aimed at stimulating the rapid maturation of young fruit-bearing shoots. During the spring and summer periods, these shoots stretch out enough so that berries can appear on them already in September.

After the entire crop is harvested, it is necessary to prune the shoots at ground level. Raspberries quickly give a new offspring, so you should not be afraid to cut the branches. By next spring, new shoots will grow in these places again, among which there will be both strong and weak ones. After examining the raspberry, you should remove all unnecessary processes. If you do this, then healthier shoots will begin to become even stronger and gradually gain strength. If there is a need, then you can tie the plants to the wire on the support. Bushes of autumn varieties are overgrown with shoots in one year, therefore pruning should be done the same way every season.

Advantages and disadvantages of the one-year development cycle in remontant raspberries

Many gardeners, in addition to varietal raspberry bushes, grow annual remontant raspberries on their plot. With such a development cycle of this plant, some advantages can be distinguished:

The main advantage of growing such a berry is the minimal succumbing of plants to diseases. Due to the one-year development cycle, raspberries cut off the entire outer part of the stem in autumn, so fungi and pests do not have time to multiply in it.
Since the stems of the bushes are removed before the winter period, there is no need to worry about their freezing.

The disadvantages include the fact that there is not always enough time for the fruit to fully ripen over the summer. Often on the bushes you can observe ripe berries in the wrong cold season.

Experienced gardeners can harvest two crops from one plot of remontant raspberries. If you do not cut the shoots, but leave them until next year, then the strongest of them will bring you a later harvest. This procedure is carried out when they want to extend the fruiting time and get as many fresh berries as possible.

So, summing up, we can indicate that pruning raspberries means the complete removal of shoots for the winter, and shortening them in the summer to twenty-five centimeters in length. It must not be forgotten that all cut material should be removed from the site and burned. Painful bacteria, viruses, and pests can overwinter in dry branches and leaves. Therefore, in order to protect your crop from many possible diseases, the best option is to dispose of all cuttings.

Pruning raspberry shoots according to Sobolev

Back in the days of the Soviet Union, A. G. Sobolev proved that six kilograms of berries can be harvested from one raspberry bush. The method of pruning the bushes of this man has become a real discovery for all lovers of juicy and tasty raspberries. Many gardeners came to his house for advice to learn a unique way of growing raspberries. From childhood, Sobolev was closely associated with agriculture, but it took him more than one year to get such a plentiful harvest from raspberry bushes.

You can also try out this person's cropping method and get a wonderful result. The essence of this method is to cut raspberry shoots in a strictly defined time frame.

The first pruning of raspberries is done in late spring, or early June. When annual shoots grow from seven to ten centimeters to a meter, their tops are cut off. If you cut each branch by ten to fifteen centimeters, then this will further provoke a qualitative growth of side shoots. You yourself will be able to observe how the axillary buds are already activated in a few days, and by the end of August, processes up to half a meter will be in their place. Next year you will pick berries from these branches, so it is so important to observe the exact timing of pruning.

The second time the raspberry bushes need to be cut next spring after they are already covered with foliage. In this case, the top of fifteen centimeters should be removed from each side shoot. After such treatment, by the fruiting period, raspberries will have several dozen more fruit-bearing branches with ovaries.

Pruning raspberries according to the method of A. G. Sobolev is called double in the common people. If everything is done correctly, then you are guaranteed to succeed:

Extend the harvest of ordinary varieties, make it early and late, bringing the fruiting time closer, like a remontant raspberry.
Increase the number of flower buds on each bush.
Increase the quality and quantity of the crop.

Autumn pruning of bushes is carried out according to the same technology as in the traditional way. For the winter, raspberries are prepared by removing all immature, dry and diseased shoots, that is, they do a sanitary cleaning of the site.

Despite the simplicity of the Sobolev pruning method, if done correctly, gardeners eventually get the desired high yield. In addition to timely pruning of bushes, they also need to be watered and fertilized. There must be enough useful nutrients in the ground to ensure the normal development of raspberries. If the shoots are cut in time, then the planting density of raspberries will be the most acceptable with a severe restriction of side branches.

When planting raspberries, make sure that the beds are located from north to south.
To prevent raspberries from being exposed to lingering drafts and strong winds (especially in winter), it is necessary to plant bushes near a hedge or fence. The best landing site will be the south side.
Raspberries are not afraid of the proximity of groundwater to the surface of the earth, so these plants can be planted in areas with such features.
To obtain high yields, A. G. Sobolev recommends planting raspberries with a distance of one meter between rows, and with the same distance between bushes.
If the groundwater is located at a considerable depth, or the area has an arid summer climate, then the plants need to be watered frequently. An excellent option would be to raise the raspberry beds to a twenty-centimeter height above the ground cover. To do this, you can build a special box, for which slate is often used, or boards. This box will well retain moisture and fertilizers, which are so necessary for the raspberry root system. Thus, healthy nutrition is provided in the beds for the further growth of fruit-bearing shoots. Not only purchased mineral supplements (superphosphate), but also natural humus in combination with potassium are well suited as baits for raspberries.

Depending on the region where the raspberries are grown, you will need to try this pruning method several times until you find the best option. Raspberry growing areas have significant areas, so agricultural practices may differ for individual plots. The path to a successful harvest from raspberry beds can be found by the gardener's own experience.

Raspberries are a favorite fruit of many. For beginner gardeners, it is from the planting of raspberries that their summer cottage life often starts, filled with worries about their own garden and vegetable garden. One of them is the correct and timely pruning of raspberries in the fall. Does she need? How to spend it?

The purpose and timing of the autumn pruning of raspberries

Autumn pruning of raspberries is carried out in order to increase the yield with the help of the correct formation of its plantings. It is known that the roots of raspberries are perennial, and the shoots bear fruit for no more than two years. Where they are allowed to grow freely, raspberries "run wild", capturing more and more new areas. There are few berries in these dense thorny thickets, they are small, and it is not easy to collect them. So that the raspberry always pleases with an abundance of large and juicy berries, and does not turn into some kind of garden invader, it is necessary to cut it regularly.

Autumn pruning is carried out before the cold snap, which in some places may come as early as the end of October. But many experienced gardeners advise not to delay it until late autumn. If warm autumn days stand for a long time, then garden pests manage to start up in the raspberries before the cold weather. Therefore, it is possible to carry out its autumn pruning immediately after harvesting - in early September.

Pruning technology: step by step instructions for beginners

Before the autumn pruning of raspberries, you need to carefully examine the bushes and determine which shoots you need to get rid of and which ones to leave. This manipulation is done with a sharp pruner so that the cut is neat and the wound is small. You should adhere to the following pruning technology:

Remove old, broken, diseased and pest-infested branches.
Cut out weak young shoots that obviously will not overwinter.
Get rid of two-year-old shoots that will no longer bring a new crop, but will interfere with the emergence of young branches, shading them. It is easy to distinguish such branches. Their bark is dark, hard, they are replete with lateral spreading shoots.
Thin out dense bushes, where more than a dozen stems have grown per square meter. Here they use a sharp shovel, which makes marks in the ground in a circle at a distance of 20 cm from the raspberry bush. Then the space outside this circle is dug, cutting down excess stems and removing weeds.
All these branches must be cut at ground level so that pests do not breed on the left stumps. And then they must be burned, otherwise you will not get rid of the raspberry enemies. They winter well under the snow.
After pruning, the remaining stems must be fertilized with iron sulfate.

When and how to cut raspberries in the fall (video)

Features of pruning remontant raspberries

To properly trim remontant raspberries, you need to take into account its features. For some of the varieties that have a normal two-year fruiting period (Zhuravlik, Sentyabrskaya, Progress), The two most commonly used methods are:

Those who want to get the maximum yield in the first year are not recommended to rush with autumn pruning. You can carry it out according to the usual scheme in late autumn.
If you sacrifice part of the autumn harvest of the first year (no more than 40%), then in the second year you can get abundant fruiting. In this case, in September, most of the bush is cut out flush with the ground, leaving only a few of the most developed and strong one-year stems. From the already more developed rhizome next spring, many young branches will appear, on which it will be possible to wait for a bountiful harvest.

Many modern varieties of berries (Hercules, Brilliantovaya, Penguin, Indian Summer-2) differ from other remontant raspberries in that they abundantly form flower stalks in all parts of the shoot in the first year. This variety of raspberries must be completely cut out after the first frost. Only in this case, next year, they will show remontant properties in full on young shoots.

If you leave uncircumcised stumps for the winter, then the raspberry will be reborn, the effect of obtaining two crops from it in a year will be lost. The bushes will be low, and the risk of infection with raspberry mosquitoes or beetles will increase significantly.

There are also raspberry varieties that are not remontant, but exhibit these properties during mild autumn (Yellow Giant, Kostinbrodskaya, Indian Leto). For them, it is necessary to carry out late autumn pruning differentially, removing only those parts of the shoots from which the berries were collected. On the remaining uncut parts of the branches, the harvest will appear next season.

Rules and features of getting rid of overgrowth

Raspberry shoots, if not dealt with in a timely manner, are the scourge of many gardens. She can flood the entire area, freely moving to vegetable beds. Green shoots should be cut with a sharp shovel at the beginning of the season, when they have not yet sprouted deeper than 10 cm. The main roots of the plants remain intact. There are a number of ways to deal with the growth of raspberries.

Digging trenches around the perimeter raspberries and between rows. Their depth and width should be about half a meter. The bottom of these ditches is filled with a nutrient mixture of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, wood ash, earth. Such a layer should occupy a third of the depth of the trench. Its upper layer consists of a mixture of humus, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash and earth.
Fencing trenches with insulating materials: slate, roofing felt, polyethylene film. They should not have gaps - loopholes for seedlings. These barriers are buried to a depth of 30 cm, which prevents the penetration of offspring. After all, they are found no deeper than 25 cm. The roots that feed the plants easily overcome this barrier.
The roots of raspberry bushes of winter garlic and sorrel planted in the aisles, prevent their roots from moving in this direction. And growth in this case does not appear.

Preparing raspberries for winter: do I need to prune

The preparation of raspberries for wintering should be taken care of in the summer, so that the wood on the young shoots has time to mature and the roots to get stronger. To do this, at the end of August, after harvesting, plants are fed 2-3 times with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. The last time they are brought before frost - in October.

To do this, prepare the following mixtures (per square meter of land):

Under mature bushes - 50 g of superphosphates and wood ash are diluted in a liter of water, for young plants the dose is halved.
5 kg of humus or 5 buckets of manure - once every 3 years.
250 g of complex fertilizer, which includes phosphorus, potassium, ammonium sulfate.
3 g zinc sulfate and 5 g manganese sulfate.

Usually organic matter is alternated with mineral fertilizers.

An important measure for a successful wintering of the roots is the mulching of the soil around the bushes before the onset of cold weather. Here you need to know a few rules:

Raspberries should be watered abundantly before mulching so that the roots do not dry out in winter.
For raspberries, soil with neutral acidity is preferable. Therefore, coniferous sawdust is not suitable as a protective litter. It is better to use straw, peat, rotten foliage.
The layer of mulch should be 7-8 cm. A thin layer does not prevent the evaporation of moisture from the soil. A too thick layer is fraught with the danger of root rot.

Raspberry shoots winter well under the snow, withstanding sub-zero temperatures up to 35 degrees. So that they can be completely protected by snow cover, at the end of September, still quite flexible branches are tied, bent to the ground and pinned.

In winters with little snow, you will need to cover the plants with sheets of cardboard, agrofiber (lutrasil, spunbond). Shelter is placed in several layers and fixed or slightly buried in the ground on both sides.

How to increase the yield of raspberries (video)

Many novice gardeners mistakenly believe that more berries ripen on heavily thickened raspberry bushes than on carefully trimmed bushes. It is enough to look at the overgrown raspberry bushes once to make sure that the berries in such a raspberry ripen much worse, they are smaller and not sweet enough. Despite the fact that raspberries grow quite quickly, they will not bear fruit without quality care. Shoots are pruned not only in order to thin out heavily thickened bushes.

Raspberries are characterized by a two-year development cycle, that is, in the third year of life, the berries become much smaller and lose their taste. Naturally, not every gardener wants to cut seemingly healthy and strong shoots to zero, but leaving them is not the best option. If you want to reap a good harvest next year and harvest, you should not feel sorry for the old shoots, because they only take away all the nutrients.

Step by step pruning instructions

Pruning should be carried out no later than 3 weeks before the onset of the first frost. First you need to carefully examine the bushes to understand which shoots need to be removed and which ones are best left.

In order for raspberry bushes to give a good harvest next season, you must remove:

old and fertile branches;
diseased and insect-damaged shoots;
young stems that cannot survive the winter;
biennial stems that have not fruited for more than 2 years (they rarely give a good harvest, while taking away the beneficial trace elements of young shoots);
broken and undeveloped shoots, leading to thickening of the bush.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning raspberries for the winter:

We cut out all the broken and diseased shoots to zero. You also need to remove weak annual stems that look more like grass than branches.
We cut off all the two-year-old shoots on the bush.
If the raspberry has grown too large, thin out the bushes, leaving no more than 10 strong stems on each bush.
Burn all cut shoots immediately - pests and insects that are dangerous to the garden could settle in them.
After pruning, dig the bushes, destroying weeds that take some of the nutrients for themselves.
At the end, fertilizing with fertilizers and processing of bushes with copper sulphate is carried out.

Since new shoots at the bush will grow from the underground part (rhizome), you can safely cut off the shoots that grow flush with the ground.

Remontant raspberry - varieties of berries that can bear fruit on both annual and biennial shoots. Such bushes are able to yield twice a season. The first time the shoots of the last year bear fruit, the second time - the shoots of the current season. But for this, you need to follow the instructions for pruning raspberries before winter frosts exactly. It is necessary to cut the bushes of remontant raspberries almost to zero - leave only stumps whose height does not exceed 5 cm. With this removal of shoots, you can get rid of pests that decide to spend the winter in raspberries. In addition, this method of pruning facilitates the warming of the bushes, thereby reducing the risk of freezing raspberries.

It is best to carry out work immediately after the first autumn frosts - during this period, the outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the rhizome stops. You can also prune in the spring, but in this case, all work should be completed before the bud break, so that micronutrients are not wasted. In the spring, after the snow cover melts, the rapid growth of young shoots will begin, which will give the first crop. Along with this, new stems will grow, from which you can harvest a second crop.

A few tips:

After harvesting the first crop, remove the fruiting shoots, which will speed up the ripening time of the second batch of berries.
In mid-latitudes, where the warm season does not last long enough, it is advisable to grow raspberries of remontant varieties as “annual” plants (when pruning, the entire above-ground part is removed). Thanks to this, the autumn harvest will ripen much faster, there will be more berries.

Double pruning bushes - a few important nuances

Double can also give excellent results. However, the implementation of this method requires accuracy and skill. So, if you are going to try the double pruning method, then the bushes should be planted along with high-quality refueling with mineral and organic fertilizers. What is the essence of double pruning a bush?

Why do some gardeners collect up to 15 kg of berries from an ordinary ordinary bush, while not using any chemicals? Perhaps you need to know the secret way to prune raspberries in the fall?

Do I need to prune common raspberries and when is it better to do it

If you want an excellent harvest of berries, then leaving the development and growth of the bush to its own devices will not work. Of course, you can do nothing and just harvest, but after 2 years you will not be able to get more than 25% of its maximum capacity. Is there a way out? The easiest way to take a full-fledged crop is to perform the correct pruning and preparation for the winter.

Some gardeners simply remove old shoots, dried branches from the garden, and in the middle of spring they cut the tops by pinching. In fact, such care is not of high quality and cannot ensure the full growth and development of the plant. Immediately after harvesting, shoots should be removed to allow the root system to grow. One-year branches give much more yield if they grow in time, and you provide them with all the conditions for this.

Is it possible to prune raspberries in the fall if this is not a remontant variety? Even necessary! One of the most common mistakes novice gardeners make is feeling sorry for the bush. A large number of branches is bad. They do not increase the number of berries, but only make them small and weak, so make sure that before the onset of frost you have no more than 10 shoots for the entire bush. Please note that this figure is the maximum. That is, if you do not plan to fertilize plants correctly and a lot, then it is better to reduce it to 6-7. Only in this case you will be able to harvest a full-fledged crop.

You also need to cut out all diseased stems in the fall - they are a breeding ground for fungus and other diseases characteristic of raspberries. Their intensive development is accompanied by a high density of plants. If the distance between the bushes is less than 1 meter, and the row spacing is less than 130 centimeters, then get ready to meet the fungus - it will be on all branches that are covered from the sun by other tiers of plants. The pest multiplies especially intensively after the “rainy season”, when moisture stands for 1-2 weeks in a row. To avoid this, you need to properly plan the placement of all branches so that they do not close each other and there is at least some space between them.

In addition, you need to remove all damaged branches (by wind, machinery, under a load of fruits) - they will consume a lot of energy, and there will be almost no berries on them. You need to cut at the root. Some gardeners practice digging a bush and, it is worth noting that this method is very effective. This is a kind of autumn pruning method. With a bayonet shovel, you need to dig a bush to a depth of 25 centimeters. What does it give? All shoots from the root that are underground will be cut off and the plant itself in the spring looks much neater, does not spread to the sides and aisles. The only negative is that it is necessary to carry out such a procedure once every 2 months so that the garden bed is well-groomed.

After the winter passes, you need to review the shoots again, cut off all the tops so that a new growth point immediately forms and wait for the intensive vegetative propagation phase to begin. Shortening the stem has many benefits, but the main one is the density of the shoots and the large size of the berries. Before you cut raspberries in the fall, you must also remove all the shoots. One-year shoots that form after the start of summer do not have much vitality to stiffen before the onset of cold weather. They will immediately die off and become a breeding ground for many insects. It is better to immediately remove them, thereby clearing the bed of pests and debris.

If you don’t know how to properly cut raspberries in the fall, what tool you need for this is not a problem. The only obligatory rule is to use a sharp pruner. If this is not done, then the wounds in the spring will heal for a very long time, and the raspberries will move away from autumn work for a long time.

Double pruning - how to do it and why you need it

We have already talked about whether it is necessary to cut raspberries in the fall and how to do it, now let's move on to the instructions on how to increase the yield. Relatively recently, in Russia, the method of double pruning of raspberries and other shrubs began to be used. It gives the opportunity get 50% more yield from one bush with the same fertilizer and care. You can also optimize the free area in the garden and send more branches up, preventing the bush from growing to the sides. What is the essence of the method, what needs to be done to make it work, let's take a closer look.

Step 1 Pruning before frost

Whether it is necessary to cut raspberries in the fall or not is not even discussed, since no one has canceled weed control. Of course, everything superfluous will also need to be eliminated from the garden. That is, you perform the first pruning and leave the bush for the winter.

Step 2 Shortening of the tops at the end of July

Many professionals recommend doing this at the beginning of May, as is the case with, but remember an important thing: time is not the main indicator, but the height of the bush. If at the end of May it will be 80-90 centimeters, cut it off. If less, wait until June, July or even August. As soon as you remove 10 centimeters of the top, lateral shoots will go from the axils of the leaves that are at the top.

Step 3 Shortening of side shoots.

At the end of September, when they grow 40-50 centimeters, you need to pinch them so that they thicken and store useful substances. If this is not done, there is a risk of freezing in winter. To prevent this from happening, you can collect the shoots and bend them to the ground. One-year branches can overwinter if the winter is not too cold. If they die off, shorten them to a two-year stem, and they will quickly grow in the spring.

Such a simple operation will improve the yield, quality of berries (mass and taste), reduce the risk of disease. You will get something like a fan, where 4-6 new ones will develop from one branch. As a result, the darkening of the lower sections will be minimal, and the free space will be used rationally.

Pruning remontant varieties - what are the differences

Many agronomists do not see the difference between the processing of a remontant variety and an ordinary one. But it's there and it's big enough. While a simple raspberry bears fruit on biennial shoots, a remontant berry bears fruit on one-year branches. How this affected the method of shortening the stems, we will now consider.

From several main stems (up to 8-10 pieces per 1 bush), you have one-year-old shoots, which you need more. We pinch the growth point of each stem, then it forms another 4-5 small shoots, then each of these 4-5 pieces must be shortened by 10 centimeters and wait for tillering. The next year, cut out the inner processes (so as not to thicken too much), and leave the outer ones intact. Thus, instead of 10 stems, you will have about 100 pieces, and each of them will bear the same fruit.

Dutch gardeners use this method to get up to 30 kg of berries from one bush throughout the season and they succeed. The only thing you need to pay special attention to is good watering and fertilizers, since a large number of berries will require a lot of minerals and nutrients, which are few in the soil.

What to do after pruning

The first step is to make sure that all unnecessary plant debris disappears from the site, similarly. This is done so that bacteria, fungal spores, insect pests that live throughout the year do not get into the ground and do not cause plant disease in the spring . It is necessary to remove not only the stems, but also the leaves, they must be burned away from the site of growth.

Next, pay attention to shelter from frost. After you cut off the excess, you must immediately group the stems for wintering and cover them with agrofiber. This will help protect them from icing, as well as eliminate drafts. Crouching down to the ground is the most effective way to preserve the crop. Under the snow cover, the plant is not afraid of anything. The only thing you need to know - do not perform this operation at a temperature of +5 and below, since the wood becomes brittle, it will not come to life in the spring and will have to be cut.

After the first pruning, you can do nothing, the main thing is to remove plant debris. They, again, can be a breeding ground for various biologically active forms of life. So that the raspberries do not get sick, grow large, healthy, keep order on the site.