What to feed tomatoes in June. Feeding tomatoes after planting in the ground using folk remedies. How to determine what tomatoes are missing by appearance

Properly preparing the soil for planting and growing healthy seedlings does not mean that you will have a good tomato harvest. During the season, tomatoes go through several stages of development at each of them; tomatoes require their own set of nutrients.

Signs of lack of nutrients in tomatoes

Weak tomato seedlings are not always a consequence of infection or the presence of insect pests. External symptoms may indicate a nutritional deficiency. Knowing these signs, you can help the tomato plant with timely fertilizing.

With a lack of nitrogen, the old leaves of tomato bushes turn yellow, the stems become thin and elongated, the leaf blades are small, their color is not bright green, but pale, almost white. To eliminate nitrogen deficiency, mineral or organic fertilizers containing it are needed.

Target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/hl1-350x262.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/hl1 .jpg 600w" width="500" />

When tomatoes lack phosphorus, the stems and leaves develop a bluish tint; if you look at the underside of old leaves, a purple tint is clearly visible. Roots with phosphorus deficiency develop poorly, and the plant lags behind in growth. The problem can be solved using any fertilizer containing phosphorus.

Symptoms of potassium deficiency:

• young leaves curl;
• old leaves first turn yellow and then dry out;
• Brown spots appear on the leaves.

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/deficit_kaliya-2-350x256.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05 /deficit_kaliya-2.jpg 670w" width="500" />

The deficiency is made up for with potassium nitrate, the dosage is taken from the instructions for the drug.

With a lack of magnesium, the leaf blades curl upward. If tomatoes lack zinc, then gray-brown spots appear on old leaves, young leaves almost do not increase in size and are covered with yellow dots. Spraying the bushes with magnesium nitrate (5 g per 10 l) eliminates the problem.

A lack of calcium during fruiting contributes to the appearance of blossom end rot on the fruits; a rim similar to a burn appears on young leaves; calcium nitrate helps. For boron deficiency:

• color falls off;
• growing points die off;
• the plant forms many stepsons;
• deformation of the tops of the central and lateral shoots occurs.

Iron deficiency begins to manifest itself with changes in the color of the lower leaves. They first turn pale, then begin to turn yellow, while the veins remain green.

Target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/nedostatok-zheleza-1-350x263.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018 /05/nedostatok-zheleza-1.jpg 1024w" width="500" />

Iron deficiency leads to slower growth of tomato bushes. Eliminate the deficiency with iron sulfate.

Types of feeding tomatoes

When growing tomatoes in open ground and in a greenhouse, it is necessary to properly organize the nutrition of tomatoes and use two types of fertilizers:

• foliar;
• root.

Foliar feeding is carried out by spraying tomato bushes with nutrient solutions. Fertilizers falling on the leaves are absorbed faster. It is advisable to carry out foliar feeding in certain cases:

• bad weather;
• the plant is weakened;
• obvious nutritional deficiency.

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/ertyuhjk-350x197.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/ertyuhjk .jpg 1280w" width="500" />

To carry out foliar feeding, it is worth purchasing an industrial sprayer with a volume of about 8-10 liters. Plants are treated in the evening or early in the morning, this helps to avoid sunburn on the leaves.

Important! Don’t make the mistake of feeding tomatoes at the root if the weather has been cool for more than 3 days. Nutrients are absorbed if the air and soil temperatures are above 15 °C.

All summer residents do root feeding. Water the tomato bushes at the root with any liquid fertilizer. A prerequisite: the tomatoes must be watered the day before, this will protect the roots from burns.

How to feed tomatoes with folk remedies

Let's consider popular folk recipes for feeding tomato seedlings after transplanting to a permanent place.

Iodine

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/1-59-350x233.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05 /1-59.jpg 700w" width="500" />

Many summer residents do not believe in the benefits of iodine for tomatoes, and in vain. Iodine helps plants absorb nitrogen found in the soil, which stimulates the growth of green mass of tomatoes. From sowing seeds for seedlings until the end of the growing season, no more than 3 fertilizing with iodine is carried out:

• the first time - seedlings in the phase of 2 true leaves;
• the second time - during the formation of flower ovaries;
• the third and final feeding is during fruiting.

The main benefit of feeding with iodine during the formation of buds is an increase in the number of flowers; many more of them are formed.

Important! Plants can be fed with iodine both at the root and at the leaf level.

Watering with water with iodine during the fruiting period guarantees:

• accelerated maturation;
• increase in fruit size;
• increasing the sugar content in the pulp.

Preparing water for irrigation is simple. Add 1 drop of iodine to 3 liters of warm water and the fertilizer can be used for watering tomatoes at the root. An adult plant consumes 1 liter of liquid. Do not water the soil before fertilizing.

Ash

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/dfrghj-350x232.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/dfrghj .jpg 600w" width="500" />

Ash is a universal remedy that protects tomatoes from pests and diseases, replenishing the lack of nutrients. Feeding with ash is especially useful in cool weather, which in our northern latitudes occurs just after transplanting tomato seedlings into the ground (greenhouse).

When the soil is cold, tomatoes do not absorb potassium well, so in cool weather it is better to first fertilize with an instant ash infusion. After transplanting the seedlings, at least 10-14 days should pass.

Sequence of quick preparation of ash infusion for feeding tomatoes:

• take a container with a volume of up to 80-100 liters;
• fill it with water;
• for every 10 liters of water add 0.5 liters of wood ash;
• mix everything well and the ash fertilizer is ready.

Important! There should be no chlorine in the water. Ash is only wood or made from grass. Ash obtained from burning other materials (cellophane, wallpaper) is not suitable.

It is best to prepare an infusion from rainwater. The solution can be used immediately after preparation. You need to pour 0.5 liters of infusion onto one root. The benefit of fertilizing with ash is that tomato bushes receive and quickly absorb:

• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• calcium.

These are exactly the elements that tomato seedlings need to adapt and grow after transplanting into the ground (greenhouse).

Yeast

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/73f8...ntent_big_87fde87d-350x236.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018 /05/73f8...55587_content_big_87fde87d.jpg 720w" width="500" />

To prepare, take a plastic bottle with a volume of 5-6 liters. Pour warm water into it.

Important! The water temperature should not exceed 38 °C. If you use hotter water, the yeast will not start working.

• water 3 liters;
• 1 pack of any dry yeast;
• sugar 10 tablespoons.

Mix all the ingredients, close the bottle with a stopper and place in a warm room for 4-8 hours. It is worth preparing the solution in the morning, because you should feed tomatoes in the evening.

Target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/foto...ysadki_v_teplicu-1-350x262.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads /2018/05/foto..._posle_vysadki_v_teplicu-1.jpg 660w" width="500" />

For root and foliar feeding, a non-concentrated infusion is used; it is diluted with plain water:

• 3 parts mash;
• 7 parts water.

The tomatoes are pre-watered, after which you need to pour 1 liter jar of yeast water onto each bush. Tomatoes can be fed at the root once every 14 days.

Important! Feed your tomatoes in the evening. There will be no sunburn on the leaves, nutrients will be better absorbed.

Yeast foliar feeding is useful for tomatoes. They serve as an excellent prevention of fungal diseases. The working solution is used at the same concentration. The frequency of treatments is no more than once every 2 weeks. You can feed tomatoes with yeast throughout the season.

Chicken droppings

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/maxresdefault-3-1024x585-350x200.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018 /05/maxresdefault-3-1024x585.jpg 1024w" width="500" />

In chicken manure, all the beneficial substances are in a form that is convenient for tomatoes to absorb. If you want to get a rich tomato harvest, then the first fertilizing after transplantation is done with a solution of fresh chicken manure.

There is no need to infuse it; you can use it immediately after preparation. We prepare it, strictly observing the proportions:

• 1 part liquid, fresh chicken manure;
• 10 parts rain or settled tap water.

We water the tomato beds well the day before. Mix the chicken manure solution several times and pour no more than 1 liter into each well. Exceeding the concentration of the solution or dose when watering has a bad effect on the seedlings.

Reference. Do not throw away the grounds remaining at the bottom; pour them under any fruit-bearing tree or shrub.

Mullein

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/iujythrgf-350x231.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/iujythrgf .jpg 650w" width="500" />

Mullein is a fertilizer that benefits any type of plant, especially tomatoes. This is a fertilizer complete in micro- and macroelements. List of what you need to prepare mullein solution:

• plastic bucket with a volume of 10-15 liters;
• cow dung (fresh);
• pour ¼ of the total volume into a bucket of flatbreads;
• fill the rest of the bucket with water;
• Cover the bucket with a lid and leave for a week to infuse.

The infused solution must be mixed. Add 1 liter of mullein infusion to a 10-liter bucket and mix well. Use the prepared fertilizer immediately, using 1 bucket per square meter.

To get a good tomato harvest, you need to use high-quality seeds. These can be ordered on the official website "Gardens of Russia". The newest and most productive varieties can be viewed by clicking on the button.

Nettle target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/27439.opgwyo.790-350x254.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/ 2018/05/27439.opgwyo.790.jpg 790w" width="500" />

Let's learn how to prepare original fertilizer from nettles. Nettle is used as a fertilizer after transplanting seedlings into the ground. This is the plant that contains the maximum amount of nitrogen. And, as you know, tomatoes need nitrogen for the rapid growth of green mass.

To prepare, take a container (bucket) of 10-15 liters, fill it 70 percent with chopped nettles. We also send a decent dose of any jam there. Many people will ask why it is needed. The answer is simple - the lactic acid bacteria that we want to dilute in our infusion love sweets.

Important! Add 1 cup of nettle infusion prepared in this way to a bucket of water.

Add water and 0.5 liters of Baikal EM solution to the container. For the bacteria to work well, wrap the bucket tightly with film; you need to remove it 2 times a day and mix the contents of the bucket. After a week, the fertilizer, rich in nitrogen and beneficial microorganisms, is ready.

The readiness of the fertilizer is indicated by the specific smell and decomposed remains of nettle. This fertilizer can be applied before the tomato blooms; later, other plants containing potassium rather than nitrogen are needed.

When to feed tomatoes correctly

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/52867.ove560.790-350x229.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018 /05/52867.ove560.790.jpg 790w" width="500" />

During the season, 3 root feedings are carried out. The first, very important feeding is carried out 10-12 days after transplanting tomato seedlings into the ground. There are many fertilizer options. You can use mineral fertilizers. For example, nitrophoska: 1 tbsp. l per bucket of water, consumption 1 liter of solution per 1 bush.

With high-quality soil preparation before planting using the entire complex of organic and mineral fertilizers, it is enough to fertilize the seedlings:

• potassium sulfate (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water);
• potassium magnesia (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).

Among organic fertilizers, at the first stage of development, herbal infusions or solutions of mullein or chicken droppings are used.

The tomatoes should be fed a second time during flowering. Take a solution of mullein (10 l), add to it:

• complete mineral fertilizer 1 tbsp. l;
• copper sulfate 3 g;
• potassium permanganate 3 g.

target="_blank">https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/nastoy-korovyaka-350x215.jpg 350w, https://otomate.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/05 /nastoy-korovyaka.jpg 620w" width="500" />

The consumption of the working solution for dwarf tomatoes is 1 liter, for determinate type bushes - 1.5 liters, for indeterminate plants - 2 liters.

To ensure better fruit set, root fertilizing is alternated with foliar fertilizing. The bushes are actively forming ovaries after spraying the bushes with a solution of boric acid during flowering. For 10 liters of water you need 1 gram of boric acid and magnesium sulfate.

Apply the third fertilizing during fruiting with ash infusion. How to prepare it was described above. It is effective to use superphosphate during this period. Prepare the solution according to the instructions given on the package.

The table shows cases when tomatoes need foliar feeding.

By monitoring the condition of the planted seedlings and applying fertilizers on time, you can grow strong tomato bushes with excellent immunity. Healthy plants always delight with a good harvest, which is distinguished by its presentation, good taste and long shelf life.

Feeding tomatoes in open ground or in a greenhouse - is there a difference? What types of fertilizers are there in general? How to feed tomatoes? Which fertilizers are better, root or foliar? In recent years, gardeners (those I know) have given preference to organic matter when feeding tomatoes, trying to use less mineral fertilizers, but not completely abandoning them. Homemade cheap but very effective “green fertilizer” is very popular. But about him, a little lower.

So, two weeks have passed since you planted tomato seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground. It's time to feed.

Variety Evpator

Types of fertilizing

There are two types of fertilizing. Root and foliar.

Root is used by most gardeners. It nourishes plants through the root system, that is, it is watering a nutritious mineral or organic solution under the root.

Many people know about foliar, but they use it less often, but in vain.

Foliar - this is when we apply the same nutrient solution directly on top of the leaves and branches of plants. This type of fertilizing with mineral or organic fertilizers has a number of advantages.

Firstly, it allows you to save fertilizer. Because when we apply them to tomatoes, a significant part of the nutrients is washed away with watering or during rain. Not all nutrients reach the plant.

And when we apply the solution on top of the leaf, all the nutrients pass through the leaf into the plant. And this happens very quickly. Therefore, the foliar one acts much faster than the root one.

Secondly, it is used to quickly help a plant suffering from a deficiency of one or another microelement. I try to use foliar fertilizer more often for seedlings, for recently planted plants, that is, for younger seedlings.

For foliar application, lower concentrations of solution are used than for root application, so as not to cause leaf burn. It uses fertilizers that completely dissolve without sediment and do not contain chlorine. Typically these are liquid forms of fertilizer mixtures, no matter whether they are mineral or organic. Try to use non-chlorinated water for preparing nutrient solutions - rainwater or at least settled tap water.

Both root and foliar feeding are equally useful for open ground and greenhouse tomatoes. During the first half of the growing season it is better to alternate them. In the second, go to the root ones. At high humidity, the greenhouse should be ventilated more often, especially after spraying. In order for the plant to get the maximum benefit from any fertilizer, you need to know when - in the morning, during the day, in the evening - it is best to apply it.

Foliar feeding

One reader of our blog, Anna Nepetrovskaya from Novokubansk, shared her experience of using foliar and root fertilizers for tomatoes. The experience, as far as I can tell, is priceless.

Look at Anna's tomato alleys! Isn’t this proof that her fertilization strategy was chosen correctly!

Tomato alley of Anna Nepetrovskaya (Novokubansk) - variety Cio-Cio-San

You should start feeding tomatoes a week after planting.

These are the compositions of foliar fertilizers she uses:

1. One liter of milk or whey + 10 drops of iodine + 9 liters of water.
2. Microfertilizer Zdraven + Fitosporin - dosage according to instructions.
3. Whey (2 liters) + 0.5 cups of sugar + 15 drops of iodine + 8 liters of water.
4. Bifungin (birch mushroom (chaga) - dilute with water until dark color.
5. One teaspoon each of boric acid, copper sulfate, magnesia + manganese on the tip of a knife + coarsely grated laundry soap or 3 tbsp. l. dilute liquid soap with 10 liters of water.
6. Trichopolum (10 tablets) + 1 small bottle of brilliant green + 10 liters of water.
7. 1 teaspoon of boric acid, copper sulfate, urea (cabamide) per 10 liters of water.
8. A weak solution of manganese.
9. Lactic acid solutions (whey) with the addition of 0.5 cups of sugar (10 liters).

All these solutions for foliar feeding are very effective for nutrition and protection of tomatoes from fungal diseases, especially from late blight.

They should not be applied simultaneously, but either one by one, as written, or choose those that, in your opinion, will bring the greatest benefit to the crop. With the accumulation of experience, you yourself will determine “what is yours.”

Alternate foliar feeding with root feeding. Below is, again, the experience of our reader from Novokubansk.

Root feeding

Anna advises that before each fertilizer, be sure to water the tomatoes under the roots with clean water - settled tap water or rainwater.

The first root - no earlier than 10 days after planting the seedlings.

The second - 15 days (two weeks) after the first.

The third feeding will be most effective during the beginning of flowering. Namely, during the flowering of the second cluster. On the first cluster, many gardeners advise picking off the double flower, since the fruit most often sets is ugly and different from the others. (But I would not call this recommendation mandatory - I have very rarely seen such a flower in my home).

1. One tablespoon of ammonium nitrate + 10 liters of water. Ammonium nitrate can be replaced with infusions of chicken or cow manure. The proportions are as follows: 0.5 liters of chicken infusion or 1 liter of cow manure + 10 liters of water.
2. Ingredients: 0.5 liters of chicken manure infusion + 2 tablespoons of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate + 10 liters of water. Please note that superphosphate is very poorly soluble in water. Therefore, you need to start preparing this solution at least a day before use. First, dissolve the superphosphate - let it sit for at least 24 hours, and only then add other components. By the way, superphosphate can be replaced with monophosphate (phosphorus fertilizer).
3. Ingredients: 0.5 liters of infusion of chicken manure or cow manure + 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate + 7 grams of boric acid + 10 liters of water. Pour 1.5 liters of solution under each bush, not forgetting to water the plants with clean, settled water before doing this.
4. Once a month, Anna advises feeding the roots with organic fertilizer. She calls it “Kurdyumov’s compote,” and I call it “green fertilizer.” The process of its preparation is described in detail below.
5. Every 2 weeks, it doesn’t hurt to fertilize the tomatoes with an ash solution - pour 1 glass of ash into a bucket of water, let it brew for several hours. The ash solution contains potassium, calcium, phosphorus, and many different microelements necessary for plant development.

When to feed tomatoes

A very important point: if you do foliar feeding or root feeding, then this should be done in the morning or evening. Why is that? If we are talking about foliar, then the nutrient solution should be on top of the leaves for as long as possible so that it has time to be absorbed. And in bright sunshine, spraying leaves can cause burns. This is, firstly. And secondly, the sun will quickly dry out the droplets of the nutrient solution; it will not have time to be completely absorbed by the leaves. When foliar, you should ensure that the solution gets not only from the top of the leaf, but also from the bottom.

You also need to water the plants at the roots with a mineral or organic solution early in the morning or in the evening. I prefer evening watering. And my neighbor in the country waters his cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground only early in the morning. The reasons also seem to be clear: water or a nutrient solution that gets on the leaves during the day can cause sunburn. Tomatoes should not be forced to expend energy to restore or heal wounds.

How often should you fertilize?

The question usually asked is how often should tomatoes be fertilized with mineral or organic fertilizers? The short answer is not very often. And, to be more precise, I carry them out as root ones, also foliar ones in 10-15 days. That is, about 2-3 times a month. I alternate them. Once - foliar, next time - I feed the tomatoes at the root.

People often ask: is it permissible to fertilize tomatoes during fruiting? I answer: after the ovaries have appeared, fertilizing is only at the root, that is, root.

I do foliar spraying during the first half of the growing season. That is, as soon as I noticed that the first fruits have begun to form, I stop feeding them by spraying. And I continue to do root work throughout the growing season (development).

The second popular question: feeding seedlings after picking - with what, when. The first time you should fertilize tomatoes is 10-12 days after planting the seedlings. And what, when you read above.

It is advisable, I would even say, obligatory, to foliar, root feeding when tomatoes begin to bloom. Do not miss deadlines - the number of ovaries and the harvest will depend on this.

In a greenhouse or open ground, fertilizing is carried out as follows. Each plant must be fertilized individually. If the soil under the tomatoes is dry, then before fertilizing you need to slightly moisten the bed. We water with clean water, the temperature of which is not lower than 20-22ºС. When watering greenhouse plants, try to prevent water from getting on the leaves - there is no need for excess moisture there. Water in the morning - be sure to ventilate the greenhouse afterwards. And after watering, pour half a liter of nutrient solution under each bush.

I try to do foliar spraying of tomatoes in the greenhouse in the morning so that the nutrient solution is absorbed by the evening. At night, leaves, stems, and fruits should be dry.

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground

If you have little time for care or it is difficult to find all the components of fertilizers that Anna Nepetrovskaya advises, then you can use fertilizers based on humates.

I used Kuznetsov’s GUMI (natural elixir of fertility) - the tomatoes acquired a good appearance and pleased me with the harvest. 10 liters of water + 2 tablespoons of elixir.

But you can proceed from the assortment of your gardening stores. It’s good to use Gumat-80, Gumat+7, Gumat-Universal, Emerald, Ideal. For 10 liters of water, 1-2 tablespoons of fertilizer is enough. Add here 1 tablespoon of instant mineral fertilizer (for example, Fertika Universal).

For each plant, 0.5 liters of solution is enough.

It is better to underfeed open ground or greenhouse tomatoes than to overfeed them. Therefore, when planting seedlings from mineral fertilizers, I use only ash and compost. After planting - fertilizer based on humates with Fertika Universal. All. The following fertilizers are only organic.

How to make organic “green fertilizer” yourself

I really like the positive reaction of my tomatoes to the “green fertilizer”. How do I cook it? Very simple. There are a lot of recipes for such “green fertilizer”. Its basis is mowed green weed grass.

I have an old metal 200 liter barrel. But it is not recommended to use a metal barrel to prepare this fertilizer; apparently, the oxidation process negatively affects the quality. I don't have a plastic barrel. You know, there are almost no hopeless situations. I bought huge 300-liter plastic bags. I put one bag inside another (for strength) and placed them inside the barrel. I filled 1/3 with water so that it straightens them. The polyethylene heated up a little in the sun, became elastic, stretched, and the bags were tightly placed on the outside of the barrel. I ended up with a metal barrel with a plastic liner.

So, I already had a little water in the barrel, so I added mowed grass there. Experienced gardeners advise filling the barrel with cut nettles. But I didn’t have that many nettles, so I threw in an almost full (2/3) barrel of various weeds. There were nettles there too.

On top I threw about 1 kg of wood ash, half a bucket of chicken manure, added 2 liters of “store-bought” whey (natural, they say, 1 liter is enough), a pack of baker’s yeast (100 g). I added water almost to the top.

This recipe was taken a long time ago from the book “Reasonable Farming” by Yu.I. Slashchina. He calls this solution an infusion of microbial organisms. The author recommends adding mash instead of yeast - 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, 150 g of sugar, leave for 2-3 days.

The solution ferments very actively, the stench, sorry for the details, is not the most pleasant. And you need to mix the fertilizer at least once a day. All this is infused for 1.5-2 weeks. Then I take out the fermented grass. When it dries, I put it under the zucchini. Why under zucchini - I don’t know. Something like this happened from the very beginning. Zucchini is very grateful.

You can try using this mulch on other plants.

A little more than half of the nutritious infusion in the barrel is obtained. I fill the barrel to the top. I take the prepared infusion (500 ml), add it to a watering can with water (6 liters), water the tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, pumpkins - half a liter of solution for each bush. Yes, I almost forgot. The effect will be better, and feeding will not cause harm. There will be no burn to the roots if the soil under the plants is watered first. That is, before fertilizing the roots, be sure to water the tomatoes in the open ground or greenhouse with settled water if you are using tap water or rainwater.

I really like the result of this organic feeding - the plants are always green, they look healthy, they tolerate bad weather well, they grow very quickly, they produce a lot of fruit and, it seems to me, they are getting sick less, that is, their immunity has increased.

This solution can be used for root and foliar feeding. I usually do foliar for young plants planted in open ground or a greenhouse. Watering at the roots - every 10-12 days.

This solution lasts me a long time. But everything, of course, depends on the number of plants planted. If I feel that there is not enough “green fertilizer”, then after less than half of it remains in the barrel, I add new grass. I don't add anything else except water. I wait 10-15 days - the new nutrient solution is ready.

But it’s not in vain that they say, live forever and learn. I didn’t do everything right when preparing this fertilizer. Read to the end and you will understand why.

This “green fertilizer” works well against late blight. At least, it seems to me that after I started using it, there were almost no cases of late blight on leaves and fruits. In 2013, only a few fruits (5 pieces) growing in open ground were thrown away from one bush. I didn’t notice any signs of late blight on the remaining bushes. And for the next two years there was no late blight either. Although I suspect that the reason for this is not only fertilizing, but also the dry, hot summer.

But, for example, the 2014 garden year began with rainy weather. The humidity is high, both in the greenhouse and in the garden. In order to prevent the appearance of late blight on tomatoes, powdery or downy mildew on cucumbers and zucchini, I additionally treat the plants with a whey solution (1 liter + 10 liters of water) with 10 drops of iodine. This solution has a particularly beneficial effect on tomatoes. Iodine helps to increase the number of ovaries, and whey inhibits the growth and development of pathogenic fungi.

To prevent late blight, I alternate treatments. Once with a whey solution, and the other with a Fitosporin solution. This drug not only protects tomatoes from the development of late blight, it also nourishes plants with bioactivated microelements, especially its new modification - Fitosporin-M. Sometimes I skip the lactic acid treatment, but I always replace it with a solution of Fitosporin, which well suppresses the development of fungal and bacterial diseases on plants.

Do not forget that moisture, high humidity in greenhouses or gardens during the rainy season is beneficial for the development of late blight and other fungal and bacterial diseases. Be sure to treat your seedlings and do not wait for the first signs of the disease to appear. If the disease begins to manifest itself, then it is too late to fight it, it is practically useless.

So, the answer to the main question. What fertilizers and fertilizers are the best for tomatoes? Mineral or organic?

I would answer this way. For young seedlings - foliar, complex. For tomatoes during the second half of the growing season, it is best to use natural mineral fertilizers (ash, compost), also organic (based on humates, “green fertilizer”). In order not to overfeed the plants, fertilizing is carried out infrequently - 2-3 times a month - more often in the first half of the growing season, and less often in the second.

P.S. Just a few days ago I watched a video and realized that I was not preparing the “green fertilizer” quite correctly. The author of the video is a biologist. I have no reason not to believe him. Moreover, my knowledge of biology is at school level, and even that is not very high.

So, the specialist advises that after filling the barrel with all the ingredients, wrap it tightly with some kind of air-tight material. Film, for example. Spunbond is not suitable for this purpose, as it allows air to pass through. And the process of fermentation in the water column should, according to the biologist, take place in conditions without access to oxygen. In this case, a significantly larger amount of humic substances is formed in the solution. Such fertilizer will have a much higher value than the one I received in an open barrel. Apparently, for the same reason, you should not stir the liquid in the barrel every day.

Here is the video. I advise you to look.

Happy harvest!

Step-by-step feeding of tomatoes is a traditional agricultural technique for caring for the plant, taking into account the phases of development. After all, many believe that tomatoes, like any other crop, in the process of their growth, development and maturation, need additional feeding. Properly selected doses of mineral water, of course, satisfy all the crop’s needs for obtaining nutrients, but you need to care not so much about the harvest, but about the soil. Let's take a closer look at when and how to feed to get a healthy harvest and what soil fertility depends on.

Step-by-step feeding of tomatoes depending on growing conditions

Of course, gardeners most often give preference to such substances, after taking which the result is immediately visible. This is, for example, urea. After adding it to the soil, the tomato bushes become lush, thick, beautiful, but the plant’s disease resistance and fruiting suffer. Therefore, it is not recommended to overfeed tomatoes with nitrogen; more attention needs to be paid to other elements that the tomato lacks.

Tomato feeding must be done correctly, giving it the entire complex of microelements, and then you will get a bountiful and healthy harvest. You should also know that the composition and amount of fertilizing depends on where the crop grows - in a greenhouse or open ground.

With the traditional approach using mineral fertilizers, the return from fertilizing increases significantly if they are used according to development phases and in a balanced manner. A perfect illustration of this is the harvest from Mittlider’s narrow beds. But you can do without them altogether by gradually introducing the principles of organic farming. And since not everyone has switched to organic farming yet, step-by-step instructions for feeding tomatoes will be useful to you.

Feeding tomatoes in a greenhouse

A greenhouse is a completely different world than open ground. Firstly, you should take care of the soil in which the tomatoes will be planted. Light and fertile soil should consist of:

• turf land (1 part);
• humus (2 parts);
• sand (0.5 parts).

Add superphosphate and potassium sulfate (1 tbsp per 1 sq.m.) in the fall, and urea (1 tbsp. per 1 sq.m.) in the spring.

Secondly, seedlings prepared for planting in a greenhouse must first (about a day before the process) be carefully fed with Epin-extra, which increases its resistance to pests and diseases and improves the survival rate.

After the tomato seedlings have taken root in the greenhouse, foliar fertilizing should begin. To do this, we recommend using Plantafol (about 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water). It is used in different proportions in different phases of development; in total, 4 feedings are necessary:

1. 5-7 days after landing at a new place. During this period, phosphorus is important for the crop, so Plantafol is taken with its predominance in the composition (10:54:10).
2. Carry out similarly to the first one.
3. For the third feeding, Plantafol is used, containing phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen in equal parts. This combination will stimulate the flowering of the crop.
4. It is carried out when the tomato begins to set fruit. In this case, Plantafol should have a high potassium content (5:15:45).

In greenhouse conditions, it is also recommended to fertilize to promote disease resistance of tomatoes. The following solution is used: 1 tbsp of calcium nitrate and 1 tbsp of Plantafol are diluted in a bucket of water. Spraying is carried out twice a month.

The use of Italian Plantafol is beneficial for private owners, as it eliminates the rather labor-intensive calculations of fertilizer doses required for a particular phase of development. Of course, we also have successful experience in using mineral waters - if anyone is interested, be sure to find and study the adaptation of Mittlider’s agricultural technology to our preparations, author - Ugarova T. Yu. “Family vegetable growing on narrow beds.” There are convenient tables of step-by-step mineral supplements and there is no point in rewriting them.

During the growing season, feeding tomatoes must be carried out as follows, observing the sequence of feeding:

1. Period of color formation. You can choose store-bought complex fertilizers; in this case, you should look at the growth phase for which one or another type of fertilizer is applicable. Or you can use traditional methods: bird droppings/mullein (0.5 l) + superphosphate extract. Watering dosage – 1 liter in each hole. To prepare the extract, take a maximum of 1.5 tablespoons of crushed fertilizer, fill it with 10 liters of hot water, and leave it for 24 hours.
2. It is advisable to feed the plants the second time when the second tomato cluster blooms. Here they simply use complex fertilizer, the dosage is followed according to the instructions.
3. It is carried out during the period when the third cluster of tomatoes begins to bloom. Complex fertilizers are also suitable - 1 tbsp per 10 liters. Each plant needs to consume about 2 liters of fertilizer.

But in the feeding process there is an important rule: tomatoes should never be overfed - an excess of some elements is also harmful to the plant, as is their deficiency.

The problem that arises most often is that a powerful vegetative mass interferes with the growth and development of fruits. If suddenly this happens, and the tomato bushes resemble thickets, emergency measures should be taken to help the fetus directly. To do this, it is recommended to treat the crop with superphosphate extract - 1 liter for each plant. For this purpose, the extract concentrate is increased - 3 tablespoons of fertilizer are taken instead of one.

Fertilizing tomatoes in open ground

The most necessary nutrients for a crop on open soils are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK); at different periods of development, it needs certain microelements to varying degrees.

During the development of tomato fruits, phosphorus is needed, so it is especially important to add it to the soil when seedlings are still being grown. To do this, when planting seeds in a box, use soil with the addition of superphosphate - 1 tsp per kilogram of soil is enough. You can add nitrogen and potassium here, but in very small quantities - 1/7 tsp is enough for 1 kg of soil.

Then the tomatoes need to be fed during the process of transplanting from the box into open ground. During this difficult period, the tomato needs potassium, which promotes the ovary and ripening of the fruit. Before digging a place for planting a tomato, add organic matter to the soil - about 5 kg, 1 tbsp of superphosphate, 2 tbsp of potassium sulfate - all this per square meter of area.

Tomatoes also respond well to fertilizers such as humus and compost - it is best to apply them directly into each hole before planting the bush. But manure for open ground can only be added when digging up the ground after harvesting, i.e. in the fall, since adding manure to the soil in the spring will contribute to too intensive growth of foliage, to the detriment of the fruits.

During the period from planting to fruit formation, three main root (i.e. soil) fertilizing is carried out:

1. Carry out at the very beginning of flowering of the plant. As a top dressing, water with the following solution: for 10 liters of water you will need 0.5 liters of any infusion of organic fertilizer (chicken droppings, green grass, mullein). Also during this period, superphosphate extract is added to the soil.
2. It is carried out when the tomato blossoms appear on 2 clusters. They feed with organic matter (exactly the same as in the first case), only 1 tbsp of complex mineral fertilizer is also added to the infusion.
3. When the third cluster of tomatoes begins to bloom, they are simply fed with complex fertilizer - 1 tbsp diluted in 10 liters of water.

As for foliar feeding (i.e. spraying tomatoes), they also need to be carried out according to the following principle:

• Before the formation of the fetus. During this period, the tomatoes are sprinkled with urea infusion (1 tablespoon of urea + 1 g of potassium permanganate is diluted per bucket of water);
• After the formation of the fetus. It is recommended to spray with a solution prepared using potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium magnesia (1 tbsp of any of them per 10 l).

For foliar feeding, the rule applies: the procedure should be carried out in the early morning, or in the evening, when the sun is still or no longer shining. This way the fertilizing will remain on the leaves longer, nourishing them. It is best to alternate root and foliar feedings.

Foliar feeding of tomatoes with iodine

Recently, such a simple preparation as iodine has been used as a fertilizer for tomatoes. It is this that, according to gardeners, contains components that stimulate faster formation of ovaries on bushes and fruit development. In addition, iodine also affects the number of ovaries, which become more numerous with such feeding.

There are two options for solutions using iodine in the composition:

• Regular iodine solution. Preparation is not difficult: 3 ml of iodine is diluted in a bucket of water. The dosage must be observed! For accuracy, you can use a syringe. Watering with iodine solution is carried out at a rate of 0.5 liters for each bush.
• Solution using serum and iodine. The serum is mainly used as a preventive measure against late blight, to which tomatoes are susceptible. Take 1 part whey to 9 parts water and mix well. After this, iodine is added at the rate of 20 drops per 10 liters. Tomatoes are sprayed with this solution rather than watered. The procedure is carried out 2-3 times a month, it is advisable to do it in the evening, in calm, clear weather.

2-3 days after iodine treatments, it is important to water the bed with some “live” preparations (EM, compost tea, weed infusion) to revive the microflora in the bed. But more on that a little later, and now let’s move on to fertilizers for tomatoes without chemicals.

Folk remedies - the best organic fertilizers for tomatoes

Of course, it is best, if possible, to use it as a fertilizer for tomatoes. natural remedies, the effectiveness of which is not inferior to store-bought fertilizers, and in terms of “usefulness” they are clearly superior to them. True, preparing nutrient solutions using traditional methods requires more time and effort. But they are definitely worth it.

There are several truly effective remedies that will give tomatoes everything they need to get a healthy and abundant harvest:

• Mullein. The basis for its preparation is fresh cow dung, which is currently not so easy to obtain. The manure is diluted with water (1 to 3) and left for a week, after which the mullein is ready. For direct watering of plants, mullein is diluted: 1 liter of fertilizer per bucket of water. Watering dosage – 1 liter per hole. You should not overdo it with mullein - fertilizing is carried out no more than 2 times during the entire growth period.
• Infusion based on chicken manure. Also an effective remedy, the preparation of fertilizer is similar to the first option. Before watering, the fertilizer is also diluted, only in a different proportion: ½ liter of infusion is required per bucket of water. In order for the tomatoes to better accept the fertilizing, they should be watered a little with plain water before the procedure.
• Wood ash. Its composition is very similar to a complex fertilizer, which combines calcium, sodium, magnesium, potassium, the deficiency of which is most often experienced by the crop. Dry ash is added to the holes when planting tomatoes, and the beds are also sprinkled with it. But the most effective fertilizing will be a solution of ash. For root and foliar feeding, it is prepared in different ways:
  • To spray, the ash is boiled in water for half an hour. Dosage based on 100 g per liter. After the solution has cooled, it is further diluted with water - 2 liters of plain water should be used for 1 liter of concentrate. In order for the infusion to linger longer on the leaves, add a little laundry soap or other adhesive.
  • For irrigation, ash is diluted in water in the required concentration. Do not insist, watering is carried out immediately.
• Herbal infusions. This is perhaps the most affordable fertilizer for an ordinary summer resident, since there is no need to search for and buy raw materials - it grows right on the site. The richer the composition of weeds for infusion, the better. They all contain different microelements: nettle – iron, potassium; dandelion – calcium; alfalfa – phosphorus, etc. The principle of infusion is based on the fermentation of herbs in water, with 2 parts of weed taken to 1 part water. The container where preparations are carried out must be tightly closed. Thus, 10 days should pass, after which the fertilizer for tomatoes is ready. Immediately before watering, the concentrate must be diluted with water 1/10. 1.5 liters will be enough for each bush. You should not get carried away with herbal infusions - we recommend feeding tomatoes with them no more than 2 times a month.
• Yeast. Despite the fact that they do not contain any nutritional elements, they can serve as a plant growth stimulator - they activate soil biota. In this case, either fresh yeast can be used (diluted in water and immediately watered) or dry yeast (dissolved in water and left to infuse for several hours before watering).

Of course, you can prepare a complex solution (as many summer residents do), for example, based on herbs, to which you add manure, ash, superphosphate and something else “useful” for the tomato. Such feeding will be replete with all microelements and nutrients, but there is a risk of overdoing it and “overfeeding” the tomatoes, and, therefore, accumulating nitrates in them. Therefore, let's look at the problem of feeding plants from a different angle.

Why tomatoes don't need to be fed

Properly grown seedlings and a bed rich in organic matter require almost no fertilizing at all. We didn’t come to this right away, of course. At first, they also pumped the soil with chemicals. Gradually, the understanding came that mineral fertilizing and mistakes in agricultural technology make dependent plants from plants.

Think for yourself, because they simply have nowhere to go from the garden and have to absorb excess minerals. So salts accumulate in tissues and fruits. There are more pests on such plants - soft tissues are easier to bite through. And the fruits are stored worse. Do we need such food?

Now, if we see chlorosis of the leaves, then we don’t grab the fertilizer bags, but immediately tear out the plant and burn it, because in 99% of cases it is affected by a viral infection and cannot be cured. The rest of the time we replenish the beds with organic matter, water them with weed infusions and occasionally with EMs. That is, we do not feed tomatoes, but soil workers - beneficial microbes and earthworms. We cherish them and cherish them. It is the active microflora that feeds our vegetables, not chemicals.

An ancient wisdom says: “A stupid person grows plants, a smart person grows soil.”

Plants feed not from humus and minerals accumulated in the soil, but with the active participation of biota. These invisible cohabitants of plants, digesting their food with the help of enzymes, supply nutrients in a form that is digestible for plants. By replenishing the beds with organic matter and maintaining the soil structure, we feed our microbial helpers (bacteria, fungi, etc.) and soil living creatures (earthworms, etc.). This is, in fact, why you don’t need to feed tomatoes, but you need to grow fertile soil and increase the immunity of plants.

Step-by-step feeding of tomatoes still resonates with adherents of traditional agricultural practices. Perhaps such care will be popular for a long time, but we should not forget about the dosages and amounts of fertilizers - overfed plants will not produce a bountiful harvest. And remember that, first of all, you need to feed not the plants, but the soil, so that favorable microflora develops in it, which will provide the tomatoes with all the necessary antibiotics and nutrition.

Tomatoes are one of the most beloved crops by gardeners. This is an annual plant belonging to the Solanaceae genus. They can be grown in open ground, but the best option is a greenhouse and film shelters. To obtain a high yield, regular fertilizing and good lighting are required. However, not all gardeners know what to feed tomatoes with, and at what period it needs to be done for the full growth and development of tomatoes.

Fertilizers for open ground and greenhouses

Feeding tomatoes in open ground, namely when transplanting seedlings, is an important point that many gardeners skip and suffer from the resulting poor-quality harvest. Initially, you need to treat the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect it. The answer to the question of how to feed tomatoes when planting in the ground is ordinary saltpeter. It is applied directly into the hole, 1 tbsp. spoon. This procedure is carried out to also facilitate the establishment of seedlings.

Advice. You can also add a complex of fertilizers to the hole: superphosphate, ash and compost. Organic fertilizers are added one glass at a time, superphosphate 20 g.

When planting tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is also advisable to feed them. How to feed tomatoes in this case and what to use for this? Here you can use regular dry yeast. The product is prepared as follows: for 3 bags of yeast, take 2 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated sugar, 0.2 kg of ash and 1 liter of liquid mullein. All components are dissolved in 1 bucket of water. The infusion turns out to be concentrated, so it needs to be diluted (1 liter per 10 liters of water).

Tomatoes

Further feeding of tomatoes

The first feeding is needed as soon as the tomatoes are planted. How to fertilize tomatoes during this period? Fertilizing can be root or foliar. Most often, gardeners use the first type, completely forgetting about the second, considering them useless. And it’s completely in vain, since they have a better effect on the growth of tomatoes and fruiting.

Foliar feeding of tomatoes is extremely useful. The fertilizer gets directly onto the leaf, is absorbed by it, and the plant receives additional nutrition much faster than if you feed it at the root. But the benefits of root dressings are also obvious; the main thing is to produce them on time and use the right products.

Foliar feeding

The first feeding of tomatoes is done 10 days after picking. For further fertilization, the instructions are as follows: feed once every 10 days. With this regime, the plants will be resistant to diseases, easily resist pests, and the harvest will be larger.

First feeding

During the period of seedling growth, special ready-made fertilizers are most often used. For example, it could be Zdraven for seedlings of tomatoes and peppers or a universal one. It is recommended to dilute in accordance with the instructions.

After the tomatoes are planted in a permanent place, the type of fertilizer changes. It depends on the fertility of the soil. If it is poor in nutrients, then organic and mineral fertilizers should be applied.

From organics, an infusion of mullein or bird droppings is recommended. Sprinkling the soil with ash with the next watering also has a positive effect. You can make an infusion from the herb, let it ferment and use it as a top dressing.

Of the mineral fertilizers for poorly fertile soil, nitrophoska and other complex fertilizers are suitable; if the soil is fertile, then potassium sulfate or potassium magnesium. The consumption of all these types of fertilizers is 1 tbsp. spoon for 1 bucket of water. Watering is carried out at the root.

Second feeding

The second feeding coincides with the period of flowering of the second cluster and the beginning of the formation of ovaries on it. How to feed tomatoes during this period?

During the second feeding, a whole complex of organic and mineral fertilizers is used. Prepare the following composition:

• 10 liters of mullein solution (can be replaced with a solution of chicken manure);
• 1 tbsp. a spoonful of any mineral fertilizer;
• 3 g copper sulfate;
• 5 g of potassium permanganate.

The resulting solution should be used to feed the tomatoes at the root. The solution consumption is:

• low-growing tomatoes - 1 l;
• determinate tomatoes - 1.5 l;
• tall tomatoes - 2 l.

You can also apply fertilizers that promote the formation of ovaries. For these purposes, superphosphate has proven itself well (1 teaspoon per 5 liters of hot water, stir and cool). The solution is intended for root feeding.

During this period, tomatoes are also very responsive to foliar feeding, when 1 g of boric acid and magnesium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is sprayed onto the plants.

The simplest and most accessible fertilizer during this period is ordinary ash, which is scattered on the soil surface. You can also prepare an infusion (10 teaspoons of ash per 10 liters of water, leave for 7 days). Such fertilizing, applied with watering, accelerates the growth of fruits.

Important! The addition of boric acid is necessary if there is a deficiency. You can notice it by the appearance of the plant: the growth of the bush slows down, the ovaries form poorly, and the fruits have an irregular shape.

Third feeding

The third feeding coincides with the period of active fruiting. They use the same composition as for the second feeding, but you must pay attention to the appearance of the tomatoes. If there are few fruits and a lot of green mass, then the nitrogen part is excluded from the fertilizer composition or simply fertilized with ash.

Foliar feeding for sick tomatoes

What fertilizers are needed for tomatoes when foliar feeding, if the plants do not feel very comfortable in open ground?

If there is a slowdown in the growth of tomatoes, paleness of the leaves and weakness of the stem, then use urea. To do this, 1 teaspoon of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed.

Important! Top dressing is also good because it is suitable for treating pests and diseases.

When flowers fall off, boric acid is used (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water), and in case of insufficient lighting, calcium nitrate (15 g per 10 liters of water) will help out.

Boric acid

If the plant looks weak and exhausted, then after nitrogen fertilizing, foliar fertilizing with urea and calcium nitrate is performed (10 g of urea and 15 g of nitrate per 10 liters of water).

The best fertilizers for tomatoes

Many gardeners note the following fertilizers as indispensable assistants in growing tomatoes.

Borofoska

This product is used in rainy weather, when nutrients are washed out of the soil, on sandy soils, and also if crops that absorb large amounts of phosphorus and potassium were previously grown at the site where tomatoes were planted. Allowed to be used as a top dressing throughout the summer. Allows tomatoes to replenish the deficiency of potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. The benefits are obvious: the yield increases by 20%, the fruits become larger, and flowering lasts longer. At the same time, the soil retains a supply of nutrients for the next season.

For your information! Borofoska (used specifically for tomatoes) is the most common fertilizer among gardeners.

Ammofoska

A universal fertilizer that can be used everywhere. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and sulfur. It is especially necessary to apply it on sandy, clayey and swampy soils.

Important! Organic fertilizers can also be used together with ammophoska, which will only improve the results.

Ammofoska as a fertilizer (use for tomatoes, peppers and cabbage) is justified at different times. So, when the question arises of how to fertilize tomatoes when planting in the ground, you can safely answer, Ammophoska. It helps plants better tolerate transplantation. Since it contains potassium, it can be safely applied during the periods of flowering and fruit set, because it is at this time that tomatoes need potassium fertilizers.

Ammofoska

Fertika

For infertile soils you can buy Fertika. This is a relatively young drug that is produced in the Russian Federation, but Finnish raw materials are used. The product is available in small pale red granules and in the form of a concentrated solution. Fertik is dissolved in the required volume of water, according to the instructions, and fertilized at the root. You can also apply it in the fall.

Zircon

The preparation Zircon is very important when growing tomatoes. But it is not only a root former, which is why it is used as a fertilizer for tomatoes when transplanting, but also increases resistance to diseases and is a growth regulator. Good for seed germination.

Baby

The drug Malyshok is recommended to fertilize the soil for both seedlings and mature plants. It contains all the elements necessary for good growth of nightshades. Its use has a positive effect on plant growth and root formation, rapid fruiting and helps tomatoes adapt to stressful conditions.

Baikal

You should not lose sight of biofertilizers, one of which is Baikal. In practice, it has been proven that when growing tomatoes using this drug, you can get a rich harvest (from one bush up to 150 kg). In order to achieve such success on your site, you need to act strictly according to the following scheme:

1. A container without a bottom for planting tomatoes with a volume of about 1 m² is made from a barrel or boards.
2. Holes are drilled around the perimeter of the container for oxygen access.
3. A 10-centimeter layer of urgasy is laid out at the very bottom.
4. On it is the same layer of soil mixture, which consists of turf, Baikal biofertilizer, ordinary soil and EM compost, taken in equal proportions.
5. At the beginning of May, 1 tomato seedling is planted under a film cover in a prepared container.
6. The lower leaves are torn off and after drying, another 10-centimeter layer of soil mixture is added.
7. This procedure is carried out as the plants grow until the container is completely filled.

What does growing tomatoes this way give a gardener:

• the bushes will have a very powerful root system;
• such a plant does not need to pluck off the shoots, so a real giant grows - a whole tomato tree;
• The first harvest will be a little late, not earlier than mid-July, but fruiting will last for a long time (until mid-October), since such bushes are resistant to cold weather.

Folk remedies

Not only mineral fertilizers for tomatoes are used in garden plots. Folk natural supplements are very popular. They promote proper development and long-term fruiting.

Iodine

Ordinary medical iodine is widely used for growing tomatoes. It promotes faster ripening of fruits.

Important! Iodine is a preventative against late blight, which causes great harm to tomatoes.

It can be used both in a greenhouse and in open ground. As soon as the planting is done in a permanent place, 2 weeks after the first feeding of the seedlings is carried out. In the future, it can be done every 2 weeks. Dissolve 4 drops of the medicine in 1 bucket of water and water the plant at the root. 1 plant will require up to 2 liters of solution.

Nettle

Feeding tomatoes in open ground is very important. Nettle infusion works well for this. It contains many nutrients: potassium, magnesium and calcium.

To make it you will need young nettles before they bloom. The greens are placed in a bucket, compacted and filled with water. In this form it should last 2-3 weeks. The container can be placed in the sun to speed up fermentation. Every 2-3 days the infusion needs to be stirred.

This fertilizer can be used weekly; after applying it, mandatory watering is required. If you don’t like the smell of nettle fermentation, you can add valerian root to the container with the solution.

Nettle as fertilizer

Tomato diseases and their prevention

In the process of caring for tomatoes, you need not only to think about how to feed the tomatoes, but also how to protect them from diseases and pests.

Tomatoes are most susceptible to the following diseases:

• mosaic;
• late blight;
• crown rot;
• leaf curl.

This list can be continued for a very long time. The main thing is to understand that in order for the plant to hurt less, proper care is very important. And to prevent the development of diseases, it is important to promptly detect the first signs and either begin treatment or destroy diseased bushes.

Disease prevention also plays an important role. For these purposes, copper oxychloride and homa are suitable, which are diluted as a solution of the required concentration and sprayed on plants. You can combine this procedure with foliar feeding. It is an effective remedy for combating late blight, spotted rot and macrosporiosis - the main diseases of tomatoes.

Which of the above remedies - a special ready-made one from the store or a folk one - to choose is up to each gardener to decide for himself. Some are sure that they have not yet come up with anything better than complex ones and give preference to them, others do not want to water the garden with “chemicals”, so they use ash and chicken droppings according to the old-fashioned method. Both have pros and cons, which must be weighed before applying under the root or spraying the bush.